Adding spot free

[Dylanbennett]

Looking to add spot free rinse to our wash is this able to be done by plumbing to the existing hose going to the bay with a check valve or does another hose need to be ran so there isn't to much change over time. Any suggestions are welcome current water is around 340 tds

 

[Don B.]

Looking to add spot free rinse to our wash is this able to be done by plumbing to the existing hose going to the bay with a check valve or does another hose need to be ran so there isn't to much change over time. Any suggestions are welcome current water is around 340 tds

You’ll want to run a separate hose and tee it in to the existing hose with a check valve, as close to the boom as possible. If you tee it in at the pump, it will take a long time to get there. Especially on your farthest bays. Although it’s more noticeable to the customer if its presoak, simply because they can see the soap lagging. You can’t really tell there’s a lag with spot free because it’s clear. But I would definitely tie it in close to the boom.

 

[Dylanbennett]

You’ll want to run a separate hose and tee it in to the existing hose with a check valve, as close to the boom as possible. If you tee it in at the pump, it will take a long time to get there. Especially on your farthest bays. Although it’s more noticeable to the customer if its presoak, simply because they can see the soap lagging. You can’t really tell there’s a lag with spot free because it’s clear. But I would definitely tie it in close to the boom.
H

How does that work with weeping in the winter time? How do you ensure water is weeping through both circuts

 

[MEP001]

If you use Nylon tubing, you don't have to worry about it freezing.

 

[Don B.]

How does that work with weeping in the winter time? How do you ensure water is weeping through both circuts

You don’t generally weep your low pressure lines.
Some people put the low pressure lines in a heated or unheated trough or wrap them. Like mep001 said, If it’s nylon tubing it won’t hurt it to freeze occasionally. It’ll expand and rarely ever crack.

 

[Dylanbennett]

If you use Nylon tubing, you don't have to worry about it freezing.

What size nylon tubing is best to use. Also, what are some heated trough options we get below freezing for 2 to 3 weeks straight at a time so it would be nice to have spot free work all the time

 

[MEP001]

I always use 3/8" OD tubing. The pressure loss through it is negligible, even with a 100' run. 3/8" Nylon N11 or N12 generally has a working pressure of 250 PSI. I use black because it won't break down from UV.

 

[Dylanbennett]

Would I also need a check valve on the high pressure side to keep the spot free from back feeding into the hp hose back to the pump room?

 

[Don B.]

[/QUOTE]
No, you only need one check valve on the spot free line where it tee’s into the hp line, to keep the high pressure from backing into the spot free line. If you have gravity feed for your hp pump, the spot free could feed through the hp pump and into the holding tank, but you should have a check valve between the tank and hp pump that would prevent that.

 

[MEP001]

Would I also need a check valve on the high pressure side to keep the spot free from back feeding into the hp hose back to the pump room?

Ideally you shouldn't, but if the pump's maintenance isn't kept up, the spot free can back up through the valves and seals, it can damage the low pressure seals, and it can back up into the holding tank. Most washes have check valves in place to prevent backflow, but there are some that don't. I try to avoid putting check valves everywhere to reduce the chance of them failing. I cringe when I go into an equipment room and see check valves in five or six places on the high pressure pumps, on the bottom of every single solenoid stack, 3 or 4 (or the record I've seen, eight) at each boom.

 

[Dylanbennett]

No, you only need one check valve on the spot free line where it tee’s into the hp line, to keep the high pressure from backing into the spot free line. If you have gravity feed for your hp pump, the spot free could feed through the hp pump and into the holding tank, but you should have a check valve between the tank and hp pump that would prevent that.
[/QUOTE]
Our pumps water holding tank is under the pumps themselves but there is a foot valve at the bottom of the pickup tube so I should be ok?

 

[Dylanbennett]

Ideally you shouldn't, but if the pump's maintenance isn't kept up, the spot free can back up through the valves and seals, it can damage the low pressure seals, and it can back up into the holding tank. Most washes have check valves in place to prevent backflow, but there are some that don't. I try to avoid putting check valves everywhere to reduce the chance of them failing. I cringe when I go into an equipment room and see check valves in five or six places on the high pressure pumps, on the bottom of every single solenoid stack, 3 or 4 (or the record I've seen, eight) at each boom.

Do you have and recommendations for a pump,coupler and motor to pump the spot free water to the bays

 

[MEP001]

I use a Dayton motor, they last ten years or more. G0338274 from Zoro with a coupon is best price. 1X408, 4X179, 5X401 are the three parts to the coupler from Grainger, PP2507X and PPA10481C is the pump and bell housing from Kleen-Rite. You can run this combo up to 225 in the bays with a RE55590L bypass regulator. All together is still about $200 cheaper than a stainless booster pump that won't make as much pressure.

 

[Dylanbennett]

I use a Dayton motor, they last ten years or more. G0338274 from Zoro with a coupon is best price. 1X408, 4X179, 5X401 are the three parts to the coupler from Grainger, PP2507X and PPA10481C is the pump and bell housing from Kleen-Rite. You can run this combo up to 225 in the bays with a RE55590L bypass regulator. All together is still about $200 cheaper than a stainless booster pump that won't make as much pressure.

Thank you also what kind of manafold should I use 3/8 un metered?

 

[MEP001]

I like the GC high pressure stainless valves in 3/8", part # GC S401-24 from Dultmeier. They're full flow so you'll get maximum pressure to the bay. For a lot less money and minimal pressure drop across the solenoid you can use Kip solenoids that are rated for 250 PSI. You can only get then in 1/8" NPT but I just use a 1/4" to 1/8" reducing nipple and a 1/8" to 3/8" tubing fitting. I don't see them from Kleen-Rite, but I have gotten them before. They were only about $30 each.