My water softener system is fourteen years old. Recently, the flush cycle seemed to take a long long time. I turned the dial in the control box on top of the resin tank, and the cycle gradually came to a stop. However, now the system does not go through the flush cycle anymore. I wonder if anyone can tell me what I can do. Or at least tell me to whom I should call in the Houston, Texas area. It seems like not too many people want to service water softener systems. Also, should I change the resin and charcoal in the system after 14 years?
Alamo water softener system
- Thread starter GTC
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
Alamo softeners are made by Fleck. The control motor may have failed in the middle of a cycle. It's a very cheap and easy fix. Call River City Water in San Antonio; I know they're not close, but they're very reasonable and might know someone in Houston who won't rip you off.
The resin will usually last 8-10 years, but if it's softening properly there's no need to change it. A charcoal filter is usually only on the spot-free system to remove chlorine (which will destroy the membranes). After 14 years it's probably saturated. The easiest way to check it is to get a chlorine test kit for a pool/spa and check the RO reject water while the system is running. The chlorine will be concentrated by the system and will show easier. You should check it at least once a month, and there should be no sign of chlorine at all.
The resin will usually last 8-10 years, but if it's softening properly there's no need to change it. A charcoal filter is usually only on the spot-free system to remove chlorine (which will destroy the membranes). After 14 years it's probably saturated. The easiest way to check it is to get a chlorine test kit for a pool/spa and check the RO reject water while the system is running. The chlorine will be concentrated by the system and will show easier. You should check it at least once a month, and there should be no sign of chlorine at all.
I looked into the control panel on top of the resin tank and saw a round disc like device behind the dials. Is that the motor? If it is, I think I can change it myself. I just need to know where to buy the part. Also, the instruction on the panel indicates that I have to remove the cable before I can swing open the panel. How do I do that? Should I remove it from the control box, or from the water pipe, where the cable is inserted?
I looked into the control box on top of the resin tank and saw a round grey color looking device behind the dial panel. Is that the motor? If it is, I think I can replace it myself. I just need to know where to buy the part.
Also, the instruction on the panel says the cable must be removed before the panel is swung open. From where should I remove the cable? From inside the control box, or from the water pipe, where the cable is inserted? If there is anything I need to know to change the motor, please let me know.
Also, the instruction on the panel says the cable must be removed before the panel is swung open. From where should I remove the cable? From inside the control box, or from the water pipe, where the cable is inserted? If there is anything I need to know to change the motor, please let me know.
MEP001
Well-known member
You unplug the cable from the meter, which is behind the panel and on the plumbing. It just pulls straight out and friction-fits back in. If you don't unplug it from the meter you might break the gear behind the dial. It will usually pop out and back in without damage, but there's no reason to risk it.
Before you go replacing parts you need to know if the motor is even bad. Turn the dial on the front until at least the first click, then look at the little window on the motor. If it's good you'll see a flag going past the window.
You should also check the meter itself; take note of the reading on the count-down dial next to the manual control dial and check it the next day. If it's in the same place, the meter is bad. It's also very easy and relatively cheap to replace. You'll want to replace the meter and impeller together.
Again, if you need parts call the guy in San Antonio. He keeps those on hand, his prices are really good and you'll get it in one day.
Before you go replacing parts you need to know if the motor is even bad. Turn the dial on the front until at least the first click, then look at the little window on the motor. If it's good you'll see a flag going past the window.
You should also check the meter itself; take note of the reading on the count-down dial next to the manual control dial and check it the next day. If it's in the same place, the meter is bad. It's also very easy and relatively cheap to replace. You'll want to replace the meter and impeller together.
Again, if you need parts call the guy in San Antonio. He keeps those on hand, his prices are really good and you'll get it in one day.
I pulled the cable from the little gear on the panel, but when I tried to pushed it back in, it only went in half way, no matter how hard I pushed it, is it OK? Anyway, let me first get the terms of the parts straght. The white face disc on the back end of the knob is the meter? The one facing the front and is next to the knob is the count down dial, which shows the capacity of gallon?
When I turned the knob until it clicked, I could see from the little round window in the motor that some white plastic wheel was turning, but I did not see any flag. The clicking noise seemed to come from the three black gears next to the panel. One large gear was on top of another gear of the same size. The third one was a small gear positioned in the middle of the two large gears. When the small gear turned, the two large gears were engaged and started moving. But in the end, they were just making clicking noise and remained at the same positions. Is the problem with the motor, the meter or something else? I know how to remove the white face disc on the back of the knob, but I cannot remove the knob or some of the gears behind it. I really appreciate your help.
When I turned the knob until it clicked, I could see from the little round window in the motor that some white plastic wheel was turning, but I did not see any flag. The clicking noise seemed to come from the three black gears next to the panel. One large gear was on top of another gear of the same size. The third one was a small gear positioned in the middle of the two large gears. When the small gear turned, the two large gears were engaged and started moving. But in the end, they were just making clicking noise and remained at the same positions. Is the problem with the motor, the meter or something else? I know how to remove the white face disc on the back of the knob, but I cannot remove the knob or some of the gears behind it. I really appreciate your help.
MEP001
Well-known member
I specifically said to unplug it from the meter on the plumbing. The white wheel on the backside of the manual-turn dial is the control disk. If you unplug the cable from the meter on the water pipe you'll be able to twist it so the other end will go all the way back in easily.GTC said:
That is the flag you're seeing move inside the motor, so the motor is good.GTC said:
Take a picture of the head and the gears and indicate exactly which ones are just clicking and not moving. Without knowing which model you have and exactly which gears you're talking avout, I can't tell you anything.
Did you check the "Gallons remaining" indicator over two days to see if it's moving?
pitzerwm
Active member
That motor could be running, but the "transmission" inside could be stripped, but since the wheels/gears appear to turn some, then the motor probably is ok, but if you don't find any teeth missing on the gears, there is probablt resistance and something is giving, thus the clicking.
I took quite a few photos, but I cannot attach them with this message. I keep getting this message: upload of file failed. How can I attach photo?
I will check the counter down dial and see if it has moved or not next time I go to the car wash.
I will check the counter down dial and see if it has moved or not next time I go to the car wash.
MEP001
Well-known member
The images you can attach have to be very small. You can upload them to a hosting site (I prefer imageshack.us, which is free) and use the "Insert Image" to paste in the forum link and they'll display right on the page. There is also a photo gallery on the main autocareforum.com page, but I don't know if it's for that sort of thing or if it will link images.
I took some photos which I forgot to pull off my phone, but I'll do that and label the components for you.
I took some photos which I forgot to pull off my phone, but I'll do that and label the components for you.
I use insert image and type in the link, but only the link is shown here, no image. If you somehow can see the picture, this is what the picture shows:
The left side of the picture shows the count down dial, next to it is a red button. Below the red button is the knob. To the right of the red button is one of the large black gear that moves, clicks but will not turn. There is another large black gear below it that does the same thing. Between these two gears is a small one that turns. The upper large gear is connected to a device that has a label showing rapid rinse, brine & rinse, back wash, etc. The lower large gear is connected to something that shows tank 1 and tank 2. If you can think of other ways that I can send pictures, please let me know.
The left side of the picture shows the count down dial, next to it is a red button. Below the red button is the knob. To the right of the red button is one of the large black gear that moves, clicks but will not turn. There is another large black gear below it that does the same thing. Between these two gears is a small one that turns. The upper large gear is connected to a device that has a label showing rapid rinse, brine & rinse, back wash, etc. The lower large gear is connected to something that shows tank 1 and tank 2. If you can think of other ways that I can send pictures, please let me know.
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/222/38745909.jpg http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/1006/95446221.jpg http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/5048/23238181.jpg
I checked the count down dial yesterday, and it had moved. In fact, it was moving when I was there. I have some more pictures here. Img707 shows the side view of the gears set up. Img189 shows the back side of the panel, exposing the motor and meter. Img 534 shows the two resin tanks and the charcoal tank.
I checked the count down dial yesterday, and it had moved. In fact, it was moving when I was there. I have some more pictures here. Img707 shows the side view of the gears set up. Img189 shows the back side of the panel, exposing the motor and meter. Img 534 shows the two resin tanks and the charcoal tank.
MEP001
Well-known member
Yes, I can see the broken switch. You need to replace the switch and the main drive motor. I've seen the same thing happen before - the motor goes bad and runs backwards, then when the switch gets to the point on the cam where it would normally drop down, it breaks the switch instead. It's an easy fix.
That's a Fleck 9000. You need an 18738 drive motor, a 10218 homing switch and a 16433 program switch.
That's a Fleck 9000. You need an 18738 drive motor, a 10218 homing switch and a 16433 program switch.
MEP001
Well-known member
When you insert an image from Imageshack, use the one that says "Forum link." It includes the [ img ] and [ /img ] tags, or you can just add those to the link you posted. With such large pictures, it would be better to use the thumbnail link.
Then if someone is using dial-up the page will load faster, but they can still click the thumbnail for the full image if they need it.
Then if someone is using dial-up the page will load faster, but they can still click the thumbnail for the full image if they need it.
I called River City Water for parts. They asked me to check the pistons first. I used a plier to try to push and pull it. None of the pistons moved. I tried to reconnect the pistons to the gears. Only the top one fitted. The lower piston had probably been jammed, and when I removed it from the gear, it was free from the pressure and moved a little bit. I could not reconnect the lower piston and gear. I then turned on the power and turned the knob, and the flush cycle started. It seemed that the power head was ok.
Now my question is: how do you remove a piston? Do you remove the water seal first, and pull the piston out? If the piston will not move, do you need to ply it out and may possibly break it? Is it common to have debris behind the piston?
Now my question is: how do you remove a piston? Do you remove the water seal first, and pull the piston out? If the piston will not move, do you need to ply it out and may possibly break it? Is it common to have debris behind the piston?
