Anatomy of a rotary switch

[Eric H]

I’m replacing a seized rotary switch on a SS faceplate. I thought some people would like to see the insides.
1st photo shows where the switch corroded causing the switch not to move. The corrosion is at the bottom of the switch at the spot where the stem protrudes from the body. The water follows the stem (where the knob is attached) into the interior of the switch and pools.
the next picture shows the 2 stacks on this 10 position switch.
Numbers 10-19 show the smaller finger that breaks the contact before touching the next contact. This is the “Break before Make” portion of the switch. These contacts should be used to control solenoids or relays.
numbers 20-29 show a larger finger that touches the next contact before moving completely off of the previous contact. This is the “make before break” portion of the switch. These contacts should be used for the motor contactor. If you have more than one high pressure function in a row this will prevent the motor contactor from turning off briefly between selections.
Hope this helps some people out

 

[OurTown]

What brand is this one?

 

[Eric H]

What brand is this one?

Electro switch. I don’t think there is any significant difference between Electroswitch and Shalco. Years ago I only used Shalco and they would work for several years. Now both brands last about 3 years at the most.

 

[OurTown]

Electro switch. I don’t think there is any significant difference between Electroswitch and Shalco. Years ago I only used Shalco and they would work for several years. Now both brands last about 3 years at the most.

Do you ever lube them or use the seal nuts?

 

[Eric H]

Do you ever lube them or use the seal nuts?

I use Seal nuts but I don’t lube the switch when I install them. I do spray some silicone lube on the stem when I lube my locks.

 

[Greg Pack]

Well, I did not know that there was a difference between the two stacks. I guess I never tried to wire them differently than I found them.

I use a penetrant occasionally on the stem and changing a switch is a rarity for me.

I use Seal nuts but I don’t lube the switch when I install them. I do spray some silicone lube on the stem when I lube my locks.

BTW, Eric, next time you are at Lowe's pick up a can of super slick slick stuff and try it in place of silicone. It is a "light duty" penetrant and lubricant that is also sold by the same company packaged as Houdiini lock lube for a higher price. Doesn't stink or leave a greasy film and works very well. I use that product for all kinds of stuff: all my locks, cleaning tools, etc.

 

[Randy]

Greg, Do you mean this stuff https://www.lowes.com/pd/Protexall-Products-11-oz-Metal-Cleaning-Lubricant/3456064

 

[Greg Pack]

Greg, Do you mean this stuff https://www.lowes.com/pd/Protexall-Products-11-oz-Metal-Cleaning-Lubricant/3456064

Yes sir, that is the same stuff as houdini lock lube.

 

[HCCW]

Electro switch. I don’t think there is any significant difference between Electroswitch and Shalco. Years ago I only used Shalco and they would work for several years. Now both brands last about 3 years at the most.

I’ve noticed that too. I’ve used Shalco for 25 years and they used to last a lot longer. Why do they cheapen crap? I’d gladly pay more to have it last longer. I hate trying to retire that tiny thing when it’s 5 degrees out.