Best shut-off valve for weep?

[Randy]

I would think that ½” pipe would be more expensive than ¼” High pressure hose. Here’s the hose you want to use http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2634-goodyear-14-black-single-wire-braid.aspx I like to cut the hose to length, if you don’t have a hose crimper use these reusable fitting http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2751-parker-reuseable-hose-fittings-14-wb-h-x-14-mip.aspx You’ll need to use a swivel at the end that connect to the pump.

 

[2Biz]

Randy,

My wash has 3/8 HP hose out to the bays. What difference would you see between 1/4" and 3/8"? All my fittings are 3/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread)....

 

[Randy]

I’ve got 3/8” HP hose at my car wash as well, that’s what it’s been for 32 years. The only difference between the two is the product changeover is faster with 1/4'”

 

[slash007]

I would think that ½” pipe would be more expensive than ¼” High pressure hose. Here’s the hose you want to use http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2634-goodyear-14-black-single-wire-braid.aspx I like to cut the hose to length, if you don’t have a hose crimper use these reusable fitting http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2751-parker-reuseable-hose-fittings-14-wb-h-x-14-mip.aspx You’ll need to use a swivel at the end that connect to the pump.

Probably not cheaper, maybe they just had some galvanized pipe laying around lol. Not sure what they were thinking. It looks like all bays had galvanized running to the bays at one point but then 4 of them were mostly switched over to hose except for the small section in the ER. I don't have a crimper, the pricing is about the same just getting the hoses ready made from KR.
I do need a swivel on one end so that I can put them in. I have 3/8" running from the pump to the galvanized line, then most bays have 1/4" running to the bays after leaving the galvanized. What is the difference between MPE and MSE?

 

[2Biz]

Male Pipe End and Male Swivel End??? I googled it and it looks like this is something only KR has on their site. Maybe someone else will chime in...Randy?

 

[slash007]

Male Pipe End and Male Swivel End??? I googled it and it looks like this is something only KR has on their site. Maybe someone else will chime in...Randy?

I googled it too and all I found was the KR reference. I was hoping that it was Male Swivel End as it would eliminate my need to buy a swivel, but I'm not sure. I plan on just chatting with a rep tomorrow and asking.

 

[MEP001]

They also have a female non-working swivel fitting they can put on a hose. It will go on a fitting, pipe or another hose (the joining fitting MUST be clean and smooth or it will not seal). It's the fitting on the left:

 

[slash007]

They also have a female non-working swivel fitting they can put on a hose. It will go on a fitting, pipe or another hose (the joining fitting MUST be clean and smooth or it will not seal). It's the fitting on the left:

that looks like what I need. I'm guessing I just have to ask them in the notes section of my order. I am curious, why is it called "non-working swivel" It does swivel, right?

 

[MEP001]

It swivels until the fitting is tight, just like a union or a flare fitting.

 

[slash007]

It swivels until the fitting is tight, just like a union or a flare fitting.

Makes sense, thanks for the tip on the hoses.

 

[slash007]

When it comes to fittings, is stainless steel ok?

 

[Randy]

When I need to connect 2 hoses together I use one of these http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2455-non-working-swivel-1405-str-14f-x-14f.aspx it gives you a little more flexibility on the number of hoses you have to stock.

When it comes to fittings, is stainless steel ok?

Stainless steel fittings are great to use. The only drawback is the price.

 

[2Biz]

Stainless is the best, but like Randy said, price can be prohibitive. Whenever you mix alloy fittings, stainless, copper, brass, galvanize, etc. you'll want to check to see if the metals are compatible because of Galvanic Corrosion. If you do a search on it, you can find a chart that will tell you how compatible different metals are when put together. Obviously when you attach metals that are the same, ie. a brass nipple with a brass piece of pipe, there will be no galvanic corrosion. Check out this link, it explains it in greater detail:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Plus there is a metal compatibility chart at the bottom of the page...Hope this helps you understand it all a little better.

 

[slash007]

Stainless is the best, but like Randy said, price can be prohibitive. Whenever you mix alloy fittings, stainless, copper, brass, galvanize, etc. you'll want to check to see if the metals are compatible because of Galvanic Corrosion. If you do a search on it, you can find a chart that will tell you how compatible different metals are when put together. Obviously when you attach metals that are the same, ie. a brass nipple with a brass piece of pipe, there will be no galvanic corrosion. Check out this link, it explains it in greater detail:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Plus there is a metal compatibility chart at the bottom of the page...Hope this helps you understand it all a little better.

It does. Very helpful post. Thank you.

 

[slash007]

Randy sent me a message checking up on my freezing issues, so I figured that I would just post here so that everyone would know that status. I haven't posted lately because I was busy most of last week thawing out pipes. I had two bays that would consistently freeze, and now unfortunately it seems that a third has joined the party. On the problem bays I would try something different every time they froze, an still no luck. First I changed the guns, then the check valves, then the weep shut-off valve and still freezing. We had 3 warm days but then last night it went down to 25 and this morning two bays were already frozen. I can't think of any other cause at this point except for dirty lines. I placed a large order for new lines and fittings so that I can get rid of all the galvanized lines and hope to have it on Monday. Even then I probably have to either clean out or change the existing lines as I am sure they are lined with crap. Not sure what else to do, any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Randy]

I’m at a loss to tell which direction to tell you to go next. If you’re weeping 21 oz per minute with the Weepmizer unplugged and you’ve got new guns and check valves installed, you should be good. Did you change the program on the Weepmizer? What size nozzles are you using? Are you findng rust flakes in the guns or anywhere in the system?

 

[2Biz]

Here is a suggestion in case you haven't thought of it. Once you change all the lines and fittings, leave the nozzels off your guns and start your pumps. Let water flow for a few minutes to purge anything in the lines. I always do this whenever I make a change to anything in a HP line...

I hope that getting rid of the galvanize pipe fixes your problem. I'd be pulling my hair out about now....

 

[slash007]

I’m at a loss to tell which direction to tell you to go next. If you’re weeping 21 oz per minute with the Weepmizer unplugged and you’ve got new guns and check valves installed, you should be good. Did you change the program on the Weepmizer? What size nozzles are you using? Are you findng rust flakes in the guns or anywhere in the system?

I am using 4006 nozzles, weepmizer is factory except that it is on 30 sec. cycles instead of 1 minute. I always purge the lines, but one thing I find is that there is alot of rust/corrosion buildup on the hose ends. I usually take a screwdriver and scrape off what I can, but there is not way that I can get it all. I am guessing that the pipes themselves shouldn't have corrosion lined up in them?



I am pulling my hair out lol. And losing sleep... And patience... I just unhooked all of the frozen lines from the two bays, will probably thaw out the main lines an then not hook the rest back up until we get busy. Dont' think that the main line will freeze up with no gun attached. I thought about taking the nozzles off of the problem bays last night to see if that would help but got busy and forgot. That would have let me know for sure that it was dirt causing the issue.

 

[bighead]

If you think the piping is the problem and you want immediate solutions I would just run some of this stuff to get you through winter:

http://www.omega.com/pptst/SRF3_SRF5_SRF8.html

I think it would be fast and easier this time of year to get done.

You could even tie power to a thermostat if you are worried about the electrical cost.

 

[2Biz]

I keep thinking of things, so I'll relay them as they come in! Are you getting any "Water Hammer" when your weep solenoid kicks on and off? If you are, this may be causing the crud to break loose and clog your guns...If this is happening, you might need to add a Water Hammer Arrestor...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATTS-WATER...498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2578149be2


I know what you mean about loosing sleep. We've owned our wash for 2 years now....I lost sleep every night for 2 years intill just recently, when I got the floor heat boiler installed and working. That was the last thing on my list to get done. For 2 years I found myself waking up EVERY NIGHT about 3:00 a.m. and "Working" on "Something"...Laying there knowing I had to get up in just a few hours and couldn't turn it off to get back to sleep. Really frustrating...Only positive side to that, I figured a lot out between 3:00 and 5:30 a.m.!!! So I feel your pain, been there done that!