Bolts Seizing In Ultimate Airlift Doors Hardware

[Buzzie8]

My IBA airlift doors manufactured by Ultimate are having problems. It seems as though every bolt I try to loosen ends up breaking off because it is seized up inside the aluminum. I tried presoaking them with PB Blaster penetrating oil without any success. It is getting to be real pain in the butt. A job that should take 20 minutes is now taking an entire day because I need to extract bolts all day long. It happens on the clamps where the rods are clamped to the belt and also on the pistons where the seals need replaced. I have two questions:
1. Is there some way for me to lessen the likely hood of breaking these off?
2. When I put this back together what should I do so it doesn't seize up again?
Thanks,
Buzzie

 

[robtl]

My IBA airlift doors manufactured by Ultimate are having problems. It seems as though every bolt I try to loosen ends up breaking off because it is seized up inside the aluminum. I tried presoaking them with PB Blaster penetrating oil without any success. It is getting to be real pain in the butt. A job that should take 20 minutes is now taking an entire day because I need to extract bolts all day long. It happens on the clamps where the rods are clamped to the belt and also on the pistons where the seals need replaced. I have two questions:
1. Is there some way for me to lessen the likely hood of breaking these off?
2. When I put this back together what should I do so it doesn't seize up again?
Thanks,
Buzzie

Buzzie, when reinstalling the bolts use "ANTISEIZE" it is a grease made for this problem. also you might use a better grade bolt if it is aluminum go to a stainless bolt for replacement.

 

[easywash]

Heat & a hammer

My IBA airlift doors manufactured by Ultimate are having problems. It seems as though every bolt I try to loosen ends up breaking off because it is seized up inside the aluminum. I tried presoaking them with PB Blaster penetrating oil without any success. It is getting to be real pain in the butt. A job that should take 20 minutes is now taking an entire day because I need to extract bolts all day long. It happens on the clamps where the rods are clamped to the belt and also on the pistons where the seals need replaced. I have two questions:
1. Is there some way for me to lessen the likely hood of breaking these off?
2. When I put this back together what should I do so it doesn't seize up again?
Thanks,
Buzzie

I little bit of heat and a hammer to loosen things up might help?

 

[firedigger]

I would definatly go to a stainless bolt. Steel into alluminum creates a type of corrosion, the same thing that happens to your alluminum rims on your car when they stick to the steel rotors.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Heating them is not practical since the belt would probably burn. This is just a bad design. I can't imagine why a mfr. would build something specifically for a car wash bay and make the parts out of a material that would corrode in that environment I am slowly getting rid of mine and replacing them with WyndStars.

 

[Buzzie8]

Heating them is not practical since the belt would probably burn. This is just a bad design. I can't imagine why a mfr. would build something specifically for a car wash bay and make the parts out of a material that would corrode in that environment I am slowly getting rid of mine and replacing them with WyndStars.

I completely agree. All day long I was biatching and moaning about the poor design. Actually this has been going on for years, adding mega hours on repair of the doors. You need to replace clamps almost every time you have a problem with the belt. They are not cheap either. Some good news though, my ex partner is getting some clamps made up at a local machinist (i'm assuming much cheaper). Also the "O" ring seal on the top plastic wafer can be bought at a local hardware store. I bought four of them tonight for .75 each.

 

[MEP001]

Definitely use anti-seize AND stainless bolts. I've had my fair share of dealing with steel hardware in aluminum, and just replacing the steel with stainless isn't enough. The threads will still corrode out of the aluminum.

 

[Reds]

I have Ultimate doors too. All of my bolts are Stainless, and I use Never Sieze on every stainless bolt or part that I touch. Over the past 5 years I have only had to replace the clamps once. Be carefull that you don't over tighten those 1/4" bolts - they break off real easy. I am also not happy with the belt setup - in cold weather they are constantly jumping teeth.

 

[Buzzie8]

Here is an update. I've been working on my ultimate doors leaking air for the past week. I think I have spent close to $300-$400 (not sure yet because I do not what all the overnight charges cost me). I had approximately ten bolts break off and I am ****ed. Not so much about the cost for the parts but the time that it took to get these fixed. I have a minimum of 24 solid working hours in and only repaired leaks in three air pistons. While the support ultimate provided was good, the product has major, major, major design flaws. Wish I would have done more homework on the doors when I built the wash. These parts could have been changed out in about 2-3 hours if they designed it so the bolts didn;t break off. I am sure they don;t monitor this site but they should. Buyers beware. Ultimate engineers make some changes!!!!

 

[washnvac]

Just an fyi with the belt system. Way back when, I could not wait to get rid of the chain because it seized up over the Summers. (my fault for not keeping it properly lubricated.) Now I have had such a problem with belt slippage and breakage, I am switching back to the chain drive. It is about $150 per door. I have done two so far. (I have 10 doors total) They are working great. The belt system is also a poor design. I am also doing away with the plastic bearings. They cause more resistance on the shaft than a greasable bearing.

 

[mr-gte]

10 year warrantee

Don't forget you have a 10 year warrantee
Ultimate will not remind you when you call for parts