Building a Repressurization System

[Noob]

Im thinking about installing spot free rinse at my wash. Does anyone have any experience or advice on building the repressurization system? I think I could save some money doing it myself.

 

[mac]

It's fairly straightforward. Start with the pump. Best to get a stainless multistage pump .Mount to a wall or stand with motor above or next to pump. If you have 3 phase there use that. Next you will need enough solenoid valves for all bays. Do not use a small Kip sol valve. You need one with a large internal orifice. Use 24 vac coils. To control the pump get a multi input relay like a GS 16D. Wire the hot and common for each bay to the terminals on the input. Easier if you get a transformer to generate the 24 vac. Wire the 24 hot through the normally open contacts on the relay and connect it to the coil for the pump starter, with other side of coil to 24 vac neutral. If you really want it to look nice put all controls in a pvc box. To make it look professional put a 0 to 300 psi pressure gauge on the output.

 

[Noob]

Mac, any specific pump you'd recommend? My wash is a 4 bay all SS.

 

[soapy]

Have you priced out a system from Dultmeier sales. They always had good prices on them.

 

[MEP001]

I always use a Procon pump with the internal popoff set at 250 PSI, and a second regulator set to 225. The popoff is not meant to be used as a regulator. You'll also need a 3/4 HP motor, a bell adaptor, coupler set, something to control the motor, solenoids for the bays, and a tank. It's easy enough to assemble the solenoids with tee's and nipples. You can't use block solenoids unless you can find them with a 250 PSI MOPD - Kleen-Rite only sells 150. I use the 3/32" orifice valves that can handle that pressure, or if I want to maximize flow I use valves rated to 1200 PSI that have full flow.

Dultmeier systems are cheap for not good reasons. They use closet shelving to mount the solenoids and electric controls, which looks good until the first time it gets wet, then it disintegrates into sawdust. I've been using cutting boards from Costco, it looks good, same material you can buy for $35 a square foot but it costs $9 for a 18 x 24" sheet.

 

[APW]

MEP, would this work for spot free delivery? It's only rated at 150 psi. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1967-kip-manifold-block-no-metering-2-outlets.aspx#description

 

[mac]

Should have said earlier that I hope you are comfortable working with high and low voltage electricity and can follow basic code. The advantage of a store bought unit is it comes with a warranty. I have always preferred multi stage pumps with stainless body and caps. They last forever. The Procon ones have carbon vanes that wear out.

 

[MEP001]

MEP, would this work for spot free delivery? It's only rated at 150 psi.

It will work, but at 150 PSI the flow at the bay will be pretty weak.

Kip Valves IMI Norgren 349015-023102 | Fluid Control Solenoid

This Kip Valves solenoid valve is a normally closed 2-way valve with side metering. 1/8" NPTF port, 3/32" orifice, 150 PSI max pressure.

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

The info is wrong, and the ports are 1/8", but it is rated to 250 PSI and there are reducer nipples and tubing fittings that make them usable with no problem. There's also this one which will get you even more flow:

G.C. H401GF24Z1CF5 | NC SS Solenoid Valve | 3/8in., 24V, 2200PSI

G.C. H401GF24Z1CF5 Normally Closed Stainless Steel Valve - 3/8in., 24V, 2200PSI

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

 

[Greg Pack]

The guys have given good info. 3/8 poly line to the bays and solenoids with large orifices are keys to good flow.

 

[Noob]

Does KR sell the coupler and bell housing that I would need? Do you have any recommendations for a 3/4 hp motor?

 

[MEP001]

I've been getting Dayton from Zoro.com (Part # G0338274) whenever there's a 20% off everything sale. I haven't had any problems with Dayton motors in the last five years or so, but normally I prefer Baldor, they're just a lot more expensive. Bell housing is PPA10481C from Kleen-Rite. 1X408, 4X179 and 5X401 makes the coupler ass'y.

 

[cbchevy4x4]

What tubing are you guys using running to the bays? Link to kleen rite would be helpful. Thanks. In the middle or rehabilitating my delivery system

 

[MEP001]

I use nylon N11 or N12 which you can't get from Kleen-Rite.

 

[cbchevy4x4]

I use nylon N11 or N12 which you can't get from Kleen-Rite.

is that n11 more rubbery or more rigid?

 

[cbchevy4x4]

Parker Tubing, Nylon, 3/8" OD, Natural, 250 Ft NNR-6-048 | Zoro

Order Parker Tubing, Nylon, 3/8" OD, Natural, 250 Ft, NNR-6-048 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

this is what i was thinking about using but dont know? thoughts?

 

[MEP001]

Nylon is more rigid, but it's about as easy to work with as poly and has about double the working pressure. It can withstand the liquid freezing.

FWIW I use only black tubing. The pigment makes it very resistant to breakdown from UV. It doesn't even take direct sunlight for clear tubing to get brittle.

 

[Toms PTcarwash]

Sorry about all the junk in the way.
I built mine many years ago. The 24v to 443 solenoids are fed from each wash bay, they also start the pump. I have 5 self serve and one IBA. I have a 5hp booster pump and supply the spot free at 150psi.
When I am busy and three of the bays and the auto are on spot free my outlet pressure drops a bit. I don't think a 3/4 horse pump is going to do the job. I have a1.5hp just to boost the city water pressure for 60-150 through the membranes.

 

[MEP001]

5 HP motor and getting 150 PSI... ffs, use a 3/4 HP and Procon and you can get 250 to six bays at once, save the booster for the auto. The same 3/4 HP motor and Procon will make RO water at 200 PSI and costs way less.