Can my floor heat do better?

[slash007]

I see people here that claim floor heat keeps them ice free down to 0 degrees. Mine only keeps it ice free until about 25 degrees. Below that it works, but ice will slowly start to build up and it definitely can't keep up during snow or ice. I'm going to attach multiple photos and hope to get your thoughts or suggestions on what I might be able to change to get it to perform better. Thanks.

 

[washnvac]

I can not answer your question, but I have similar issues. I do not think the desginers take into account that outside aprons/pads need a closer loop field and shorter runs from the manifolds to maintain a proper de-icing. I think in my case, I definitely need a larger heater, because it never cycles off when temps are below 30. I only have my return temp set at 70, and it never makes it there.

A larger, modulating heater is what I would like to have in the future. But with our Winters getting more and more mild, it is a hard bullet to swallow to spend that kind of money.

 

[OurTown]

Ours has a slab stat and I have to turn the temp up on it when it gets cold out. Normally it is set for 38F (when above 20F at night) but last night it got down to 8F and I turned up the stat to 50F to keep the ice off in certain areas. We have a non modulating boiler but it is just under 700,000 btu input and only heating about 2,500 sq ft. Slash, what are you running for coolant?

 

[soapy]

What size of boiler do you have? How many square feet are you trying to heat? I think Huron Valley boilers has a chart you could use to determine how much boiler you need for the square footage and the location you are in.

 

[slash007]

What size of boiler do you have? How many square feet are you trying to heat? I think Huron Valley boilers has a chart you could use to determine how much boiler you need for the square footage and the location you are in.

Good question, I need to check. I've had this wash for almost 10 years now and I feel like it did much better with the floor heat when I first started, but it's been too long to remember for sure. It has the original coolant in it, but I've topped it off with glycol mixed 50% with water. Probably put in 6 gallons total the past 3 years. I want to start with the basics, to see if my temp settings are correct. There is a dial on the gas valve set to 7, and then you see the auto and manual high limits. Wondering if those are set where they should. Not sure where it reads the fluid temp from, I just know I have a stat in the bay that turns the floor heat on and off. Probably just measures it at the boiler.

 

[cantbreak80]

Most systems have design temperatures of around +10°…meaning they’ll keep the floors ice free down to that temp. Not too many customers want to wash when it’s that cold. And most operators don’t want to spend the money on gas to keep the floors ice free at those temps.

First thing to look at is the tube bundle (heat exchanger). Raypak boilers are susceptible to sooting caused by insufficient combustion air…especially when installed in a tightly sealed equipment room. Over the years, soot build up on the tube bundle can become so heavy that it insulates the tube bundle from the burner tray, dramatically lowering the Btu output.

This condition also lowers flue temperatures resulting in condensation which drips onto the tube bundle. That acidic condensation then erodes the boiler’s internals, tube bundle, burner tray, refractory, etc. The burner tray will also start to collapse due to the high combustion area temperatures. Bye-Bye Boiler!

Take a look at the seams of the flue. Traces of condensation will be a good indicator of insufficient combustion air and sooting.

 

[slash007]

Most systems have design temperatures of around +10°…meaning they’ll keep the floors ice free down to that temp. Not too many customers want to wash when it’s that cold. And most operators don’t want to spend the money on gas to keep the floors ice free at those temps.

First thing to look at is the tube bundle (heat exchanger). Raypak boilers are susceptible to sooting caused by insufficient combustion air…especially when installed in a tightly sealed equipment room. Over the years, soot build up on the tube bundle can become so heavy that it insulates the tube bundle from the burner tray, dramatically lowering the Btu output.

This condition also lowers flue temperatures resulting in condensation which drips onto the tube bundle. That acidic condensation then erodes the boiler’s internals, tube bundle, burner tray, refractory, etc. The burner tray will also start to collapse due to the high combustion area temperatures. Bye-Bye Boiler!

Take a look at the seams of the flue. Traces of condensation will be a good indicator of insufficient combustion air and sooting.

Will do. I did have an issue where it would shut off after running for a few hours, so I had the system cleaned a few years ago. Since then I've been having it cleaned every 2 years, so hopefully that's not the issue.