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Cat 310 - Water in the Oil

Roz

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We have the same issue. We purchased a new pump (to have a spare) so we can do a quick(er) swap and then look for the bad seal or part. Anyone know of a person or company that will service pumps for a modest fee? Sometimes looking for the bad seal or part is seeking a needle in a pile of parts since it is hard to test if a new part fixes the issue without a complete swap of the pump.
 

MEP001

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You may discover that water in oil is caused by a cracked plunger or a failed plunger retainer o-ring rather than the crankcase oil seals.
This is correct, however you can replace the oil seals without breaking down the crankcase. Remove the plungers, take an old, worn flathead screwdriver if you have one, turn the pulley until the piston is all the way back, insert the screwdriver as shown. It doesn't have to be in this exact spot or position, it's just an example, but the main thing is not to scratch the piston rod.

Seal.jpg

At this angle, turn the screwdriver clockwise to hook the blade under the oil seal, then rotate the pulley. If you need to come in from the right side, turn the screwdriver counter-clockwise. The shoulder of the piston will push the screwdriver up and should pop the seal out with it. It might take a few tries and repositioning the tool, but it does work. When you install new seals, be careful the lip of the seal doesn't roll out - oil the seal and it shouldn't be a problem. A piece of 3/4" PVC makes a perfect seal driver, just drive it in firm but gently, the seal retainer will press it in correctly.

You don't absolutely have to replace the oil seals, but I always do because the spring inside the seal is steel and will rust, plus while you're already in there it doesn't hurt.

You'll need to replace the copper washers, o-rings, and backup rings. The copper ones are only meant to be compressed once. It's very unlikely there's a cracked plunger, but it does happen.

43367 - Plunger
43235 - Backup ring
17399 - O-ring
45891 - Washer

I use a mix of 3:1 of the cheapest ND oil and transmission fluid to clean the water from the crankcase. It's an old mechanic's trick and works really well. Change the oil every 2-3 days until it stays clear.
 

Randy

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We don’t bother rebuilding the Cat 310 pumps anymore. Over the years we’ve collected probably a dozen Cat 310 pumps from car wash operators who wanted there wash out pumps replaced, nothing wrong with the crankcase. Most of the time we’ve found that the plunger bolt will break off when we try to remove it or the ceramic plunger is seized to the connecting rod. We can change out a pump crankcase in no time.
On a side note, does anyone know whatever happened to "Bubbles Galore"?
 

soonermajic

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We have the same issue. We purchased a new pump (to have a spare) so we can do a quick(er) swap and then look for the bad seal or part. Anyone know of a person or company that will service pumps for a modest fee? Sometimes looking for the bad seal or part is seeking a needle in a pile of parts since it is hard to test if a new part fixes the issue without a complete swap of the pump.
I have the same question. If there's someone who can rebuilt it for a decent price, that would be better for us.
 

I.B. Washincars

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On a side note, does anyone know whatever happened to "Bubbles Galore"?
We were friends on FaceBook, but he is no longer on my list. Don't know if he unfriended me or left FB. What I do know, is that he put out four rapid-fire kids and also opened a bar and grill. I don't know if he still has the wash. I'm guessing he doesn't have time to wipe his butt, much less get on the car wash forum.
 

Randy

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We were friends on FaceBook, but he is no longer on my list. Don't know if he unfriended me or left FB. What I do know, is that he put out four rapid-fire kids and also opened a bar and grill. I don't know if he still has the wash. I'm guessing he doesn't have time to wipe his butt, much less get on the car wash forum.
I kind of have a general idea as to where his car wash is located. I might have to do some seaching and see if I can locate it.
 

Damoni88

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I have my doubts as to the usefulness of oiling the wicks considering the 310 and the 5cp use the exact same seals, and the latter doesn't have wicks at all.

[/QUOTE]
So the 310 and 5cp seal kit are the same? I have a bunch of 310 seal kits from a wash that was taken down from hurricane Laura. Can I use them on my 5cp pumps?
 

MEP001

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So the 310 and 5cp seal kit are the same? I have a bunch of 310 seal kits from a wash that was taken down from hurricane Laura. Can I use them on my 5cp pumps?
You might want to order some seal casing o-rings (Part # 13978) to change with the rebuild, but the seals are the same.
 

Greg Pack

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Excellent post MEP. IB needs to make a sticky thread with Cat how tos.

Got two 5CPs at one site with water in the oil. They're twenty years old and still have original heads- a testament to why I will continue to use Cat.
 

mjwalsh

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We had some brand new cat pumps that we bought from a local company a long time ago. Nobody was smart enough to take the tape off the vent hole. In that specific situation ... it caused water in the oil. No need to keep shouting warranty at them as soon as we unplugged that hole on top of the oil fill cap!

I am mention that just in case the vent hole would or could become plugged .....
 

ICEMAN

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i have had great luck with IDS pump repair. They also do my stainless resleeving in my pumps, especially larger pumps like 3535. Why would you throw away a 310 with water in the oil. Simple and cheap fix. I could see not fixing pumps with rear end issues.

 
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