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Cat pump (5 cp 2120 W)

I just rebuilt one of my cat pumps and it works great on rinse but when the soap us turned on it loses pressure. You can feel the pressure building but when you pull the trigger on the gun the pressure is gone.

I think it is a problem in the inlet side but I'm not really sure can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Thank you,

Creekview
 
Creekview:

I suspect your problem is on the inlet side of the pump - Look for a loose hose, leaking fitting etc... on the inlet of the pump - especially around the solenoid which controls the soap.

Something as simple as a loose hose clamp can cause exactly what your describing. Also is there soap in the pail that is being drawn from? An empty pail will allow air to enter the system and cause the same problem.
 
I have 6 bays and I am only having trouble with that one bay.

The fitting attached to the hose line that draws the soap is missing one screw. I found it today and I was wondering if it was allowing it to draw air.

Thank you for your help,

Creekview
 
Did it have this problem before you rebuilt it, or did it start after?

Does it do the same thing on soap and wax?

You may have a restriction, or you may have left a valve closed. Usually rinse water is supplied at city pressure, hot water for soap and wax are gravity-feed from a tank. In that case, there is a check valve supplying the pump with water that can get stuck closed or can sometimes fail with the poppet seating against the nipple in the outlet side.
 
The pump was working bad before I rebuilt it. It was putting out very little pressure.

I also rebuilt the two valves in the back.

Yesterday I put that same soap hose on a different bay and the pressure was fine. All other products come out fine.

Creekview
 
Up Date

The pump was working bad before I rebuilt it. It was putting out very little pressure.

I also rebuilt the two valves in the back.

Yesterday I put that same soap hose on a different bay and the pressure was fine. All other products come out fine.

Creekview

Update I switched the hoses from bay 6 (the one I am having problems with) to bay 4 coming from the hot water solenoid in the back. Bay 6 started to work and bay 4 stopped working.

So now I'm looking at the ball valve not working or the solenoid not working. any input?

Thanks,

Creekview
 
It sounds like the solenoid is the problem. A ball valve won't usually fail where the handle will turn and the ball doesn't.
 
Your right I switched the solenoid unit to a different pump and had the same problem. I took it apart and there is just what looks like a small blue donut with two wires coming out of it. So I'm guessing that it can't be fixed it has to be replaced.

Thank you for your help,

Creekview
 
Before replacing anything, you should test it. The "blue donut" is probably the coil, and they rarely go bad. Test for power at the solenoid first, which can be done quickly by using a screwdriver to check for a magnetic pull. Compare to a working bay to make sure you're feeling what you need to.

Just because your "rep" rebuilt the valve doesn't mean it isn't the problem. He could have put something together wrong.

Have you made sure all the manual shut-offs to the pump are turned on?
 
Cat pump

Before replacing anything, you should test it. The "blue donut" is probably the coil, and they rarely go bad. Test for power at the solenoid first, which can be done quickly by using a screwdriver to check for a magnetic pull. Compare to a working bay to make sure you're feeling what you need to.

Just because your "rep" rebuilt the valve doesn't mean it isn't the problem. He could have put something together wrong.

Have you made sure all the manual shut-offs to the pump are turned on?

Well, I've cross tested all parts on a different pump that works The only part that didn't work was the solenoid.

I don't check to see if the assembly was correct so I guess I'll do that now.

I couldn't feel any magnetic pull and since I didn't want to reassemble everything to do that I took a short cut :eek:.

I connected the wires to an extension cord that I had. It worked just like a magnet. Then it started to smoke. Guess that was a mistake. I recommend that you don't try this even if you are a professional.

Now is the little blue donut cooked?

Creekview
 
Yeah, you let the smoke out, the key to what makes electricity work. The solenoid was most likely 24V and the household current that you connected allowed the smoke to escape. You will need a new solenoid. Hope that cures your problem.
 
It may not cure the problem - unless the coil was bad, the problem was likely the wiring to the solenoid.
 
It was the last solenoid in line, so wouldn't any of the other solenoids had a problem?

Creekview

Yes it was 24 volt and yes I saw and smelled smoke.
 
Creekviewautowash said:
It was the last solenoid in line, so wouldn't any of the other solenoids had a problem?
Each solenoid is powered from a different source and a different switch.

You can now test the solenoid valve itself by putting the coil from a different bay on the one that wasn't working, and making sure the coil energizes.
 
Many people are not aware that if you power a solenoid coil, even with the correct voltage, the coil can smoke in under a minute if the coil is not on the little metal part. If you want to test it that way you need to put something metal like a screwdriver inside it. Been there, Done that. Bought a new one for my customer.
 
Cat Pump blowing oil from relief cap on top

I've had my weep on these last days when it was freezing and all my bays are okay except for the 2nd one away from my building. I turned it on today and nothing came out of the hoses. I could feel the pressure building in the hose.

When I went inside I noticed oil under the pump. I turned it off and checked the pump again that's when I noticed oil on top of the pump and the pump was hot.

Can anyone tell me what happened?


Thank you,
 
Without water flow, the pump will get very hot very quickly. My guess is that the crankcase is overfilled (The label that comes on a new Cat saying to fill the crankcase with oil before operating doesn't mean "fill to top") and the heat caused the oil to expand and come out the breather cap.
 
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