Cat Pump Rebuild (310)

[Bubbles Galore]

What all can be changed out with this seal kit from KR?


http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-4226-cat-pump-seal-kit-for-models-30-31-34-35-310-340-350.aspx


I have alot of spare parts the old owner left lying around, but I don't know what they are for or where they are used on the pump. I looked at the exploded diagram and that helped, just looking for a little better direction.

Thanks!

 

[whitescout]

high pressure seals, low pressure seals, wicks, and the orings or the front of the ceramic plungers. ( you will need a special socket or wrench)

 

[Whale of a Wash]

That is the whole kit. I have never changed the seals on the ceramic piston for the chance i may overtighten and break it. I dip the wicks in oil so they are well lubed and put plumbers grease on the brass inserts- they will come out easier next time

 

[Bubbles Galore]

So I can change out basically ALL the seals in a 310 pump then? I have two that need to be taken care of. Do you do any other maintenance when you change the seals?

 

[MEP001]

You should also change the valve o-rings and back-up rings at least as often as the seals. They aren't in the kit. I also don't mess with the plunger o-rings, for two reasons: there are three parts to replace and the kit only comes with one of them, and the risk of damaging something while replacing something that doesn't usually break is greater than just leaving it alone. If you ever need to replace plunger seals, you should replace the o-ring, backup ring and copper washer on the bolt, but you shouldn't ever need to unless it's either leaking water through the plunger or it's cracked, or if you have to change the oil seals behind them.

The service manual:

http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/5-15FSvc.pdf

Data sheet and parts blow-up:

http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/310.pdf

I use a flat "wonder bar" pry bar on the seal casings. I spent $60 on the special socket for a 1/2" drive tool and still was rounding off the brass seal casings, and eventually the tool got too sloppy to work. I have yet to break or strip a seal casing with the wonder bar. I just use the flat edge of the tool in the slots.

The seal casing can and should be sanded flat if it's pitted, or replaced if it's badly eroded.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Well Greg, I didn't have any unimagineable dreams, but I do really like my Arimitsu (20 or so). I also noticed at the ICA show that Etowah Valley Equipment had the Arimitsu 516s on their SS equipment and not the Cats.

BTW, I appreciate the Sunday night help last month. I'll bet you think twice before you give out your cell # again.

 

[MEP001]

Wow......that 310 sounds almost delicate, complicated, special tools, washout issues, o-rings & back-up rings here and there, cracked plungers, etc, etc.

The only special tool needed is used on the seal casing, and the Cat 5CP can be rebuilt with no special tools at all. Otherwise, there are no real differences in the number or type of parts between a Cat 5FR plunger pumps and the Arimitsu 516.

 

[Plow Guy]

When I first became a member I was spammed by an Arimitsu dealer. I did not like it. But I bit, went to the Arimitsu web site, looked at the 516 blow up. 310 uses Three seal pieces, not counting the case seal. 516 uses eight. So much for simplicity.Also the cat site goes into better detail on how to rebuild their pumps. More user friendly. Do not get me wrong, I bought my pumping station 10 plus years ago, In 10 or fifteen years I will defiantly look for the best pump on the market. Maybe buy then it will be made in the USA when Toyota, the number one auto maker in the world expands into name recognition and takes over the automatic car wash industry. and you thought the super markets were the big fish. Cheers!

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I was looking at the seal kit and at the blow-up (thx mep) and it looks like there are 6 hp seals that are needed!?! The kit only comes with three. Maybe I am going crosseyed, I was looking at it around 1:30 this morning.

 

[whitescout]

Pull caps off of the head and remove valves. set them aside for now. Pull the head off. remove the three seals you can see, and discard them. remove the brass piece with the special tool, or Mep's wonderbar. remove the seals from inside head, and discard them. Inspect the head for washout. ( look iside where the valves go, and inside where the seals go) If the head looks good, inspect the ceramics or cracks. If you want to replace the orings for the plungers, go for it, if not, install the new seals.

Install the three seals inside the head. ( there are 2 different thicknesses) "thin goes in" I usually run the bottom o the brass piece across some 1000 grit wet sand paper before reinstalling. Then, put in the brass piece ollowed by the thicker seals, and reinstall head onto the body.

Inspect the valve assemblies. Check the backup rings, the orings, and movement of the valves by blowing and sucking on them. I everything looks good, install them, and button the unit back up. If not, replace needed parts, and button it back up.

 

[Plow Guy]

bubbles, send me an e-mail with your home phone.I can walk you through your first rebuild. I will be in Denver today. Taking my favorite puppy in for an ultrasound. Someday I will take the time for a step my step Post,after I figure out posting pictures. You need a few more items then provided in the kit.Cheers Pete

 

[phred113]

Plow Guy I know what you mean about the spamming. I got so much spam awhile back when ACF website got highjacked, but I just ignored it since I know the Arimitsu folks are so helpful like I.B. said.
Arimitsu is a pump made in Japan (#1 selling brand) with a Japanese name. Cat is a pump made in Japan (sort of) without a Japanese name. The CP series is simple to rebuild because it was made to be like a General pump. I guess they succeeded. I will let folks that have owned both 5CP and 310 let you tell of their experiences with each. The 310 seems to last longer and be difficult to service (the subject of this post) with many parts that should be replaced (backing, snap rings, retainers) with special tools. The Arimitsu has only 9 total parts for a seal kit and you need a 6 mm hex wrench.

 

[MEP001]

Luckily Cat did away with the snap-ring years ago and now uses a 2-piece wick retainer that does the job.

I was looking at the seal kit and at the blow-up (thx mep) and it looks like there are 6 hp seals that are needed!?!

Three are high-pressure, three are low-pressure. The low-pressure are wrapped separately and sealed because they're coated with a graphite lubricant, and those are the ones that go in last after you reinstall the brass seal casings.

If your pumps are more than about 10 years old (The date of manufacture is the first three or four digits of the serial number, i. e. 295 or 1003, meaning Feb 1995 or Oct. 2003) you might want to have the 2-piece seal retainer/adaptor on hand to replace the snap ring. Otherwise you'll need a snap-ring pliers and possibly new snap-rings in case the old ones are rotted and can't be reused. I also keep a set of brass seal casings on hand in case they're badly eroded.

 

[jcollins]

"I use a flat "wonder bar" pry bar on the seal casings. I spent $60 on the special socket for a 1/2" drive tool and still was rounding off the brass seal casings, and eventually the tool got too sloppy to work. I have yet to break or strip a seal casing with the wonder bar. I just use the flat edge of the tool in the slots."


Mepp, That is an excellent tip! Thank you

 

[MEP001]

Mepp, That is an excellent tip! Thank you

Thanks - I've been meaning to cut down the hooked end of the bar to fit in a 530 casing to see if it works as well, I just don't have any 530's on which to try it.