Check Valves & Beyond - Ball Diaphragm Check Valves?

[trs246810]

What is the intended application for using ball diaphragm check valves in a car wash? I know there are many types of check valves, but this is one I don't understand well. I'm going to replace some very old Hoke ball diaphragm check valves located near my Cat pumps on their stands...just because they appear to be original to the car wash. I'm trying to replace all of my check valves that have been in place prior to me owning my car wash. (10 years)

This is the closest match to the Hoke check valves I'm replacing through Kleenrite:

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-37276-spraying-systems-14-brass-check-valve.aspx

Also, What types of check valves need the most attention in a self service car wash? Are there any best check valves for all around use? I see the most popular/top sellers on Kleenrite, but I'm guessing people on here must have a lot more to add from personal experience. What types of preventative maintenance schedules are recommended when servicing or replacing check valves. Also, location...check valves closer to the booms, or in the supply room for different applications?

 

[MEP001]

I was just looking at the Hoke check valves recently after I took one down that failed after probably 30 years, and it can still be repaired with a new o-ring. I also rehabbed four washes back in the early 90's, one of which I did with the Hoke valves I collected and rebuilt with new o-rings. They are very good but expensive, probably in the $40 range, but if I can get them in large quantities I might be able to get them down to $25 or less.

I've never used Spraying Systems check valves, but if they're as good as the low-pressure foam brush swivels they'd be great. I might order one just to take apart.

My concern with check valves isn't the ones that need the most attention, but the ones that cause the most trouble if they fail. IMO the ones on the low-pressure functions at the boom can cause the most problems, burst lines or locked solenoids, blown hoses at the pumps or even damage to the pump, etc. I try to put things together so a failed check valve won't cause any major issues but there's always going to be something that can go wrong.

 

[cantbreak80]

I've had very good service from Rego's stainless steel check valves. First cost is expensive but I've never had to replace one in 24 years. IIRC, I've had to replace one broken spring and maybe 6 or 7 poppet o-rings. KR sells them as their own brand here. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-3247-kleen-rite-check-valve-38-f-ss.aspx

Mep's concerns match mine. I originally had 5 CVs above each of my 8 bays. YIKES! Converting to a separate LP gun for foaming pre-soak and tire cleaner reduced that number to one per bay. All other CVs (weep system) live in the engine room. (I have at least 32 spares now. Ha!)

 

[2Biz]

I took CB80's advice a few years ago and took PS off my HP wand and added it to my TF gun. There are many benefits to doing this along with the mentioned fewer CV's in the trough! I only have 4 now for SFR, 1 for each bay! After getting PS off the HP gun, PS usage quadrupled! It works so much better now....Much easier to push PS through a 4040 nozzle compared to a 2506! Customers love it...

Actually the ones KR sells are Rego's. They stick their PN over the stamped in ID and P/N. They are Rego's sold by KR.