Check Valves - Which ones do you rely on?

[Car_Wash_Guy]

We've had rain for like a week here, so I've been doing some repairs, routine maintenance, and re-ordering backup parts.

Ive noticed that many of my check valves were shot.

What are you guys using? This is what I'm needing valves for:

1. 1/4" off the chemical injection manifold for my touchless IBA
2. 3/8" for TriFoam - Right after the solenoid on pump rack.
3. 1/2" ( currently uses SCH40 PVC ) for TriFoam on my friction IBA
4. 3/4" off hot water holding tank to manifold on pump for SS

Stainless VS Brass?

Viton or no?

Thanks guys.

 

[mac]

You don't say what pressure the valves will be working with. If I am using one working with 1000 psi, I use one rated for at least 2000. Stainless is better than brass for your caustic chemicals. Mostly try to find out what the internal parts are made of. That can be hard to do but a little research is worth it.

 

[Greg Pack]

I use the fluid controls stainless with Teflon seals for just about everything. It is overkill for non caustics but it simplifies inventory for me.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17...-steel-check-valve-3500-psi-8-gpm-teflon.aspx

 

[MEP001]

I use the fluid controls stainless with Teflon seals for just about everything. It is overkill for non caustics but it simplifies inventory for me.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17...-steel-check-valve-3500-psi-8-gpm-teflon.aspx

Same here, and I've had no trouble with them. The models with an o-ring seal might be better for a low-flow, low-pressure application where you need a 100% seal, but when I've seen those used with high pressure the o-ring eventually wears and comes off the poppet. I haven't had or seen any Teflon seal ones fail.

Hoke used to make a really good valve that could be rebuilt with just an o-ring. I replaced one that must have been 40 years old in a car wash recently, and aside from the o-ring it looked perfect inside.

 

[Randy]

I use the fluid controls stainless with Teflon seals for just about everything. It is overkill for non caustics but it simplifies inventory for me.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17...-steel-check-valve-3500-psi-8-gpm-teflon.aspx

We also use the fluid controls stainless check valves with the Teflon seals, we very seldom have one fail.

 

[Car_Wash_Guy]

We also use the fluid controls stainless check valves with the Teflon seals, we very seldom have one fail.

Thanks Randy. Just ordered $800 to replace all the various ones in my equipment room and have a inventory of spares.

 

[mjwalsh]

When we had our brand new equipment installed from a work crew of Mpls based Specialty Equip back in 1987 we had an absolute horrific "nightmarish" situation with failing check valves. A local Swagelok - Nupro sales person for nearby power plants who was a car wash customer ... somewhat befriended me at that time. It was one of the best moves we made to buy from him go to that specific brand. They have a brass version but the stainless seems last even longer.

It has been a long time since I needed to order the following so off the top of my head I am not sure which car wash supplier possibly eventually started selling these costing more upfront Nupro check valves. It seems like I might have to go back on some of my past invoices somehow someway. I took the following off part # off of a standby Nupro with a cell phone magnifier light app camera capture.

https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-4CP2-EP-1

 

[MEP001]

The brass Swagelok valves are crap. They last about three months and then require high pressure to seat, and within a year they're intermittently failing to close fully or slightly weeping by. The stainless are better but at twice the cost of the Fluid Controls they're certainly not a better choice.

 

[mjwalsh]

The brass Swagelok valves are crap. They last about three months and then require high pressure to seat, and within a year they're intermittently failing to close fully or slightly weeping by. The stainless are better but at twice the cost of the Fluid Controls they're certainly not a better choice.

I don't understand. The following picture shows the 1 PSI of the Swagelok? The Fluid Controls states 10 PSI? I did not experience a problem with too high of pressure required to seat? But then it could be the application that I am overlooking. I guess I might not be the fastest learner on the block?

Oops ... here is the link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zo88ptdr1zepueh/Swagalok NuPro 1 psi.JPG?dl=0

 

[MEP001]

I wasn't referring to the design features, I was referring to the quality. The brass Swagelok valves are crap. The stainless seem okay but they cost three times as much as the Fluid Controls which seem at least as good.

 

[mjwalsh]

I wasn't referring to the design features, I was referring to the quality. The brass Swagelok valves are crap. The stainless seem okay but they cost three times as much as the Fluid Controls which seem at least as good.

I wonder if Fluid Controls has a 1/4"x1/4" male on both ends??? I am only seeing female on both ends. It seems like I was getting a better price on the stainless steel Swageloks so I stocked up at the time. If i was more organized ... i would have had that invoice right in front of my nose within seconds.

Mike