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Chewing up plastic proxes

Waxman

Super Moderator
When I grease and take care of my machine properly, sometimes the side effects are that the trolley gets more play. This can cause the prox targets to impact (rub) the plastic Turck Proxes.

Is there a better, metal casing prox I could use in place of the yellow plastic prox? (Turck 4458000)

My machine is plenty reliable but would be far more so if I didn't smash these plastic proxes on occasion.

Thanks!
 
The prox is never supposed to touch the targets, so they don't design any of them to withstand impact with the target. They can't very well be made of metal either or they'd just detect the metal from which they're made. Do you not have enough range to adjust the prox a little farther away to allow for the play in the trolley?
 
I have a bunch of Turck prox switches on my Coleman WW 1.0. All are adjusted to at least 1/4 in from metal. Some a bit more.
 
the problem is the play that occurs at the 'in' and 'out' ends of the travel. it's a design flaw in my machine.

i placed a junk prox just ahead of the 'live' one so if the machine (target) impacts slightly, it will impact the junk one and not the good one.
 
Waxman,
Can you relocate the target or the proxy holder in order to get the proper clearance between the proxy and target? just a thought.
 
Can you place a rubber doughnut around the prox that would extend a bit and protect it if it gets bumped?
 
all good ideas. i have re-engineered many things on my sidetrac. so far the old prox in front of a good one is working well.
 
Bills donut idea is similar to what coleman does on their friction machine. Their side brushes have excessive play and they can crash the prox when they roll over a big trailer hitch. They make "prox protectors" out of UHMW. It is about half the diameter and same thickness as a hocky puck (Anyway I think that's close. I'm from the south but I have seen a hockey puck a couple of times. :) ). It has a bevel around the outside edge and internal threads that match the prox threads. You just screw it on and recess the prox face just inside the edge of the prox protector. The protector will take the hit and not harm the prox. You could probably make one out of a puck, or perhaps a motor mount.
 
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