Cleaning a Raypack Tube Bundle

[GoBuckeyes]

I know the proper way to clean one is to remove it from the boiler and clean all the fins of soot and whatever else may be clogging it. BUT…..I don’t have time for that, usually the firebrick will need replaced if you do that and did I mention I don’t have time for that?

The rollout is pretty bad on this floor heat boiler so this is what I was thinking of doing:

Remove the draft hood. Vacuum the tube bundle. Cover the burners with heavy plastic and try to blow out the heat exchanger fins with compressed air.

If there are any really bad spots possible try some coil cleaner? I know if it’s sooted up, the worst will be on the bottom which I can’t get to which is why I thought I’d try the coil cleaner but I don’t want to ruin the firebrick either.

Any suggestions?

 

[cantbreak80]

Soot is the result of incomplete combustion. Incomplete combustion is caused by insufficient make-up air. Insufficient make-up air is caused by closed or improperly sized room air venting.

Many operators disable or block the combustion air vents in the equipment room in an attempt to reduce room air heating expenses. The Catch-22…lower fuel bills and increased maintenance costs for their atmospheric boilers.

Soot acts as insulation reducing the boiler’s Btu output. It potentially overheats the combustion chamber, damaging the burner tray support structure and the refractory. Additionally, the vent stack gases will be too cool resulting in condensation. This condensation will drip onto the sooted tube bundle and produce an acidic mixture eventually eroding the copper and steel components, including the vent stack. Look for evidence of condensation on the vent stack. Traces of evaporated liquid from the stack’s seams is a big indicator. Be prepared to replace the stack.

Half measures to repair the boiler will likely result in short term resolution. Do a thorough inspection of the burner tray, support structure, refractory and vent stack to assure repair longevity.

Finally, open the equipment room’s make up air vents to reduce future problems. Motorized louvers or a fan-assisted make-up air duct work well.

 

[GoBuckeyes]

Tore apart top half of FH boiler….removed stack and draft diverter. Tube bundle wasn’t sooted up but had a lot of corrosion plugging up a lot of the fins. I used a brush, compressed air and a dental pick and got probably 95% fins cleaned out. I sure this will help the efficiency of the boiler but it did not help the roll out.

When the boiler calls for heat the pilot lights no problem but when the main valve opens its almost like there is too much pressure. Typically the valve would start at a low modulation, fire, then ramp up. It seems to also blow out the pilot when it ignites.

Any suggestions?

I had a longer video but it was too big to attach.

 

[MEP001]

Those usually have a 2-stage valve, and it looks like the gas is coming on full which will cause the "flame-out."

 

[GoBuckeyes]

Those usually have a 2-stage valve, and it looks like the gas is coming on full which will cause the "flame-out."

Figured it out but will have to fix tomorrow. The gas orifices for the burners adjacent to the pilot are plugged. That’s why there is such a delay after the pilot lights. Should be good in a day or two just in time for the colder weather.
Thanks.

 

[MEP001]

At least that part is an easy job since the whole burner rack slides out.

I've cleaned them with torch tip cleaners. It's probably not the right tool, but if you're careful you won't enlarge the jets. You pretty much have to push the buildup into the pipes of the rack, which you can clean out with water.

 

[lighthousecarwash]

My HVAC guy took the vent off the top and the hood and powered everything off. Got out a garden hose and washed the fins all out. Let it dry overnight and fired it back up the next morning. Not sure if it's the correct way, but it cleaned a bunch of gunk out of it.