Cleaning vacuums

[Ontario Car Wash]

There's gotta be a better way
My vacs are 30 years old and only have an access door at the bottom for cleaning.
I have to remove the top,motors, rewire etc just to get to the filter socks.
Any tips....
Was thinking of cutting another access panel like the newer models.
Tried sticking my hand up and shaking but that was a littletle toxic.
Thanks

 

[Earl Weiss]

I only clean those type of Filter Socks when motor needs replacing or if there is an issue. Most motors have quick disconnect blade type terminal so this should not be that big of a deal. If you have some other type you could make it so they are quick disconnect.

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

I do have disconnects
But I take em out every 3 months minimum and clean
They are caked not sure how air even gets thru them.sometimes.

 

[chaz]

Cleaning vacs is not fun or easy, no matter what. I will say mine got a lot easier "mentally" when I went to $2 for 6 minuets, cause at least I'm making more $.

But.... on to your question...

My vacs do have two access doors. I clean the vacs as needed but typically every 10 days.
1) Remove with shovel or dust pan all obvious debris.
2) with hand brush clean base of vac
3)shake dirt from filter (mask is a good idea)
4)follow up with toilet brush inside each filter from below. Twisting and brushing as needed.
I keep an extra set of filters on hand and switch out as needed, and then take to an industrial wash

Not a pleasant job....have fun.

 

[soapy]

I have several Ryko vacs that come with built in springs inside of the filter socks. When the vac turns on the sock will compress and when it shuts off the spring opens back up effectively shaking the sock after each use. They are much easier to maintain than my other vacs.

 

[Randy]

We have to clean out our vac’s every day or the homeless will do it for us and spread the waste on the ground looking for that special little treasure. We keep an extra set of vacuum filters and change them out about every 6 months or so. I the interim we use a toilet bowl cleaning brush on the end of a stiff hose, cut the handle off so about 6” will be left on the brush and slip it into a piece of ½” or ¾” hose. Make the hose long enough so you don’t have to stick your arm up inside the vacuum to work the brush up and down, it’s still a $hity mess.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Admit it, Randy. You clean them every day so you can beat them to the treasures.

 

[Randy]

Admit it, Randy. You clean them every day so you can beat them to the treasures.

No Pat, the night shift clean up crew gets all the treasures they find.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

You need to do it for the next month, so you can save up enough to buy me dinner in Vegas.

 

[MEP001]

You could probably add a second door - they still sell replacements for the single lower one. A plasma cutter will go right through the stainless and would take about a minute per vac if you make a template, or if you have the time and patience and a steady hand an angle grinder with a metal cutting disk will work. Then you'd just need to drill the holes for the hinge and latch, which is easy with a cobalt drill bit, just drill at a low speed and with a lot of pressure.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

... drill the holes for the hinge and latch, which is easy with a cobalt drill bit ...

I've never had a lot of luck with drilling SS, but last year I tried some TPP cobalt bits, I'm quite happy with them & I went back and ordered a pack of each size. Apparently they have a different angle to the tip & are hardened better (or something). Got them here: http://www.ttp-hard-drills.net/index.html

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

... if you have the time and patience and a steady hand an angle grinder with a metal cutting disk will work.

I have none of those attributes, but I've successfully cut SS with an angle grinder many times, its really not hard at all. Smooth off the sharp edges with a decent metal file. The steel on vacs isnt that thick, I'd guess it would take 10-15 minutes.

 

[MEP001]

I've never had a lot of luck with drilling SS

Don't use a center punch, stainless becomes tool hardened.

 

[mjwalsh]

I've never had a lot of luck with drilling SS, but last year I tried some TPP cobalt bits, I'm quite happy with them & I went back and ordered a pack of each size. Apparently they have a different angle to the tip & are hardened better (or something). Got them here: http://www.ttp-hard-drills.net/index.html

A body shop friend tipped us on to using some small 1/8" with drill points on both ends. They are normally used to drill out welds.

We buy them in quantity at a body shop supplier section at a local regional Hedahl's automotive parts distributor. They seldom break or get dull & are good for drilling pilot holes which lessens the need for center punching.

 

[Earl Weiss]

I only use cobalt these days. The extra money you spend up front pays back in saving time and aggravation. If they get dull a "Drill Doctor " brings them back. If you dull a few larger bits the Drill doctor pays for itself in sharpening them.

 

[Greg Pack]

Another thing that makes the filter cleanout slightly less pleasant is to insert your arm into a garbage bag, then grab the cleanout brush. The bag then serves as a sleeve.

Ive had good luck with bosch colbalt bits.

 

[soapy]

Top tip is to use a good cutting oil when drilling stainless and only use Cobalt bits. I get mine at the local industrial supply location. Much better than the ones I got at Harbor freight.