Couple Electroswitch rotary questions

[Keno]

I have a rotary switch that has developed a lot of rotational play. Is there a fix for that or just replace? I saw the old thread with the seals from digikey, and plan on adding those.

2nd question, maybe a little more involved. I don't know if wiring is incorrect, but everytime someone switches from an HP function to another HP function the motor and pump turn off and on briefly. Is there a way to make the motor and pump stay on between these quick changes?

Thanks

 

[John J Spokas]

I have a rotary switch that has developed a lot of rotational play. Is there a fix for that or just replace? I saw the old thread with the seals from digikey, and plan on adding those.

2nd question, maybe a little more involved. I don't know if wiring is incorrect, but everytime someone switches from an HP function to another HP function the motor and pump turn off and on briefly. Is there a way to make the motor and pump stay on between these quick changes?

Thanks

Add an off delay timer and set to a few seconds, no more than 3 I think.

 

[cantbreak80]

The 2nd stack of Electroswitch’s 8-position (31302MQ) and 10-position (30302LA) switched are typically a “Make Before Break” configuration…meaning each position will make contact before disconnecting the previous position.

So, if your high-pressure functions are wired to adjacent switch positions on the 2nd stack
• Terminals 21-28 on the 8 position
• Terminals 20-29 on the 10 position
the motor starter will stay energized as the customer selects Soap-Rinse-Wax, etc.

 

[Keno]

Thank you for the info, I will have to make sure I have the electroswitches mentioned. We have 10 position switches, just have to check the model numbers. Old owner left some spares, hope they are correct so I can do Make before break. I prefer that over adding a delay off timer.

The 2nd stack of Electroswitch’s 8-position (31302MQ) and 10-position (30302LA) switched are typically a “Make Before Break” configuration…meaning each position will make contact before disconnecting the previous position.

So, if your high-pressure functions are wired to adjacent switch positions on the 2nd stack
• Terminals 21-28 on the 8 position
• Terminals 20-29 on the 10 position
the motor starter will stay energized as the customer selects Soap-Rinse-Wax, etc.

Is this as simple as moving the terminals from the 1st stack to the second stack? I am a complete newbie to rotary switches, and can't seem to find much info to learn about the basics.

 

[Keno]

Any input welcome on having to replace the rotary switch if it develops rotational play? Or is repair possible? Customers can't tell which function they are choosing.

 

[MEP001]

The 2nd stack of Electroswitch’s 8-position (31302MQ) and 10-position (30302LA) switched are typically a “Make Before Break” configuration…meaning each position will make contact before disconnecting the previous position.

This is true with switches from Kleen-Rite, but not all of them. They buy them on a blanket PO and specify a configuration.

 

[MEP001]

Thank you for the info, I will have to make sure I have the electroswitches mentioned.

Definitely order the Electroswitch brand. I would bet yours are Shallco which are crap and last about a year before they get too loose.

Is this as simple as moving the terminals from the 1st stack to the second stack?

The motor starter wires will be the ones jumpered to several terminals on the same stack. It's the 2x stack that is probably make-before-break, so if the jumpered ones are already on that stack you would leave them there. None of this matters if your high pressure functions aren't all together, in which case you'll have to add a delay relay. There are relays just for this which are very easy to add, but IMO there's not a lot of wear added from customers changing functions, it's just really annoying to hear.

 

[Keno]

Definitely order the Electroswitch brand. I would bet yours are Shallco which are crap and last about a year before they get too loose.

The motor starter wires will be the ones jumpered to several terminals on the same stack. It's the 2x stack that is probably make-before-break, so if the jumpered ones are already on that stack you would leave them there. None of this matters if your high pressure functions aren't all together, in which case you'll have to add a delay relay. There are relays just for this which are very easy to add, but IMO there's not a lot of wear added from customers changing functions, it's just really annoying to hear.

The spares the old owner left are electroswitch, and I bet they are from Kleenrite as the old owner ordered everything from them it seems like. Will probably get to replacing these next week when the seal nuts come in.

If using the seal nuts, are the other nuts still required? Or are the seal nuts sufficient?

 

[MEP001]

I've tried it both ways. I like to tighten the s**t out of the nuts so the switch won't move. I've tried tightening the seal nut like that and I don't feel like it can handle that much torque. On the other hand, the seal nut seems too tall on top of the regular one. I haven't had any issues with either way.

I recommend putting a dab of silicone grease on the shaft so the seal will last longer. Dielectric tuneup grease and Sil-Glide are both available at any auto parts store. O-ring grease works too but it's harder to find.

 

[Waxman]

Look up the following on YouTube: rotary switches 101, Tom's way.

 

[MEP001]

Look up the following on YouTube: rotary switches 101, Tom's way.

 

[Rudy]

It saves your equipment (and it also saves on electricity) if you put a "delay on make" 1 second timer on the coil inputs of any selector switch function that energizes a motor. This also includes the Air Shamee (or similar dryer).

Before I did this, I could hear the relays chatter as the customer rotated through the undesired functions. Now, nothing comes on unless he pauses more than 1 second in any protected selection.

Part of your electricity bill is "demand"....and (unless I'm mistaken), the brief energizing of a motor drives this part of your bill upwards.

The Artisan 438USA has selectable time settings and works with AC or DC 19-288 volts.

 

[MEP001]

FWIW I'd much rather use a delay relay than put soap/rinse/wax together on the switch. I like having the functions in order of best use, which makes it easier to explain to customers. It also helps talk them into using everything instead of starting with soap. I also like to have one rinse position after foam brush, and another after wax.

 

[OurTown]

FWIW I'd much rather use a delay relay than put soap/rinse/wax together on the switch. I like having the functions in order of best use, which makes it easier to explain to customers. It also helps talk them into using everything instead of starting with soap. I also like to have one rinse position after foam brush, and another after wax.

View attachment 6902

That is exactly how we want to set ours up but have a dryer on the last spot. Still struggling between having a 12 position switch with two stop positions or a 10 position switch with a relay to turn something on in the normal dead spot. (have no stop position)

 

[Keno]

Look up the following on YouTube: rotary switches 101, Tom's way.

Will check it out, can't believe I missed that on Youtube, I have seen so many of the Tom's Way videos and it has helped me a lot

FWIW I'd much rather use a delay relay than put soap/rinse/wax together on the switch. I like having the functions in order of best use, which makes it easier to explain to customers. It also helps talk them into using everything instead of starting with soap. I also like to have one rinse position after foam brush, and another after wax.

View attachment 6902

This is the exact setup we have currently, so will probably end up going with the delay on break relays when I get some time to set it up. Need to get relay setup/mx8 on our flojets first, have lost a total of 4 barrels of chemical in the last 3 months due to busted hoses and flojets pumping away. Walked into a ER flooded with tire cleaner today thanks to a brittle polyflo tube that busted in the 3 feet between the flojet and bay solenoids.

That is exactly how we want to set ours up but have a dryer on the last spot. Still struggling between having a 12 position switch with two stop positions or a 10 position switch with a relay to turn something on in the normal dead spot. (have no stop position)

We have ours exactly as pictured and plan on adding air dryers soon, would be interested to see which way you go. No extra wires for us in the bays, so if we go with 12 position switches, new wires would have to be run.