D&S 5000 Presoak Delivery

[BillClinton]

My machine uses a LOT of presoak. I have switched to Blendco, and want to use it at the recommended strength. At full strength, I don't think I need the VOLUME of presoak that my machine delivers. I heard that you can choose to cut back the number of "top oscillating" nozels that deliver presoak from 8 to 4. Has anyone done this? How did it work? Would you recommend it? If so, how did you do it?

 

[MEP001]

You could do it with a simple SPDT relay wired to open the circuit to the power blaster solenoid whenever the presoak light is on. It would be a very low-cost way to try it.

 

[Red Baron]

I wonder if you could rig a simple bypass valve to circulate 30% back into...the tank. I don't know if it's aerated before or after the presoak pump - if the latter, if you bypassed aerated presoak back into the presoak tank would it settle back out and be a pure liquid again?

 

[borumrm]

I guess it depends on how your wall manifold is plumbed...what you need to do is follow the presoak hose from the pump up to the manifold on the wall...most likely right where it attaches you should see that it leads to a point where there are two hoses....you need to basically remove that junction and only use one exit point....we have it this way on all of our D&S units.

 

[borumrm]

I guess I should point out that there are 4 hoses on the side of the unit that have solenoids on them. One hose is for the undercarriage, one is for the side spinners, one is for the for the front set of top nozzles (powerblaster) and the other is for the regular 4 nozzles. Three of these hoses run to the bottom part of the manifold...either above the manifold or at the bottom you probably have two hoses that have a tee fitting..it is about here where you need to find the presoak hose that is coming from the presoak pump as that hose has to tie into two of these hoses in order to feed both sets of tips at the top of the gantry. I think it will be obvious when you look at it....oh ... by the way...you should see the same type setup for your spot free but the hose will come from the spot free pump instead. Could be that way for foaming was also with a hose from the foam wax unit. Air is fed in AFTER the presoak leaves the pump .

 

[MEP001]

You're right, I forgot that the presoak doesn't go through the solenoids on the side of the stand. The presoak just T's in at the manifold inside and connects to each individual hose to supply them all. You could add a normally open solenoid to the inlet for one set of top nozzles and wire it to the presoak output, then it would close only on that function and everything else would work as usual. It would still be a very simple and low-cost method, and not a big loss if you don't like it.

Rather than try to feed the aerated presoak back to the tank, it would seem a better idea to add a bypass valve to the pump dumping back to the inlet. Some models already had that to adjust the pressure on the presoak liquid.

 

[borumrm]

I guess if i read my post enough times I will get it correct sooner or later...I should have said follow the presoak hose to the wall manifold and you should see it tee off to three hoses there....one of those hoses will be to the side spinners, one will be to the powerblaster hose (which is on set of top nozzles on the gantry) and the other hose is to the regular top nozzles on the gantry...you want to eliminate one set to the top nozzles so that you end up with only two entry points for the presoak....the side spinner hose and one set of upper nozzles. Now maybe it will all make sense...this fix will really cost nothing but some time and maybe a plug for one of the tees.

oh yeah...there should be a check valve present for each hose before the tee .... this keeps backflow into the presoak pump/tank when other functions are at work like high pressure cycle or spot free rinse. Sometimes if these check valves fail it will blow out the smaller hose which on our units is really a low pressure hose.

 

[BillClinton]

Does it matter which of the two top nozel hoses you disconnect? Also, what do you do with the hose when you disconnect it? Just let it hang there or do you have to take it out somehow?

 

[Red Baron]

Does it matter which of the two top nozel hoses you disconnect? Also, what do you do with the hose when you disconnect it? Just let it hang there or do you have to take it out somehow?

Mine has the red braided hose which is pretty flexible. Why not just clamp/squeeze the hose off so you can easily undo it if you don't like the results?

 

[MEP001]

I would suggest leaving presoak applied through the power blaster row, which should be the larger nozzles. It would leave the most presoak still applied to each car.

Removing the hose depends entirely on how it's plumbed. You may need to unhook and plug only the last loop, or run a longer piece of hose to skip one check valve. It's up to you what you do with the last unused input, whether you leave the piece of hose dangling from the check valve or remove the barb and plug it in case the valve doesn't seat completely.