Dixmor Weepmizer~Fix or Replace??

[Waxman]

Is it me, or is this product name R-Rated? Haha. Here's my question to experienced operators here:

My weepmizer got all screwy last Winter. If I recall, it was coming on for short periods way too often, no matter the outdoor temp and attempts at programming failed.

Should I send it in to be fixed, which the company said was the only possible way to fix it, or should I buy a new one?

Does anyone spare part one of these at their wash? I could buy one and repair one, maybe.

Thanks!

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Those things are the most reliable piece of car wash equipment I have ever seen. I see no need to have a spare one around. Since it is summer just send it in and have it fixed.

 

[MEP001]

Dixmor repairs their equipment at a very reasonable price. Definitely send it in and let them look at it. More than likely your sensor is bad - they can tell you whether or not the controller itself is working properly.

 

[TurboJet]

Mine is going 10 years strong. One of the best pieces of equipment I have bought. Repair/replace (as mentioned probably a sensor) definitely worth having it operational.

I'm sure it has saved me thousands of dollars. Aside from weep water usage, I like it because it reduces customers ability to rinse their cars with weep water. Mine also controls the boiler, when above 65 degrees - boiler is auto off.

 

[Randy]

Dave,

I just sent you an E-mail with the Installation and Operating instructions for the Weepmizer. I've sent a lot of them in for repair over the years, mostly when operators install them next to a water source and they get wet or they install the Weepmizer wrong and short out the Weepmizer. When I install a Weepmizer I put ball valve upstream of the solenoid valve and then put a switch on the output of the weepmizer so you can turn off the water and power to the solenoid valve in the summer. There isn't any reason to keep power on the solenoid valve in the spring or summer months. You want to keep power on the weepmizer, there is a battery inside that is used to hold the program memory. When it goes dead you?ll lose the memory of the Weepmizer.

 

[Rudy]

FWIW...I had one make it 12 years when finally, the plug at the bottom arced and burned out. They've upgraded the plug since this old model was released. I had the output wired directly to my weep solenoid on my old unit. Now, I installed a solid state slave relay between the WeepMizer and the solenoid. The current draw is much, much less. The Weepmizer closes the slave relay, which opens the solenoid. It would be easier to replace a $15 relay than have the output of the WeepMizer repaired.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I just sold a 15 year old Weep Mizer on ebay recently. It brought $380 when a new one was $339. I guess they paid more because of it's proven track record???

 

[Rudy]

It's funny you say that I B.... I saw that unit for sale, and was maybe thinking of putting it on the spares shelf. I couldn't believe it when I saw the price it fetched.

Maybe the same guy wants to buy my 3/2? I'd let it go for $3M or so... Well maybe $2m.... Whatever.

 

[Jeff_L]

Where have you all found the best sensor placement to be at? Currently mine is attached to my brick building, under an awning, on the East side of the building. I don't think I receive the most accurate readings in the winter time with the wind chill and all. I was thinking of moving it to the North side of the building hanging off some metal bracket a couple inches off of the building. Thoughts?

 

[washnvac]

I use two sensors at all my locations; one on each side of the building. The coldest sensor will operate the unit. This is the safest way. They are all placed tight to the soffit out of the direct sun.

 

[MEP001]

Wind chill doesn't affect temperature sensors - it's only a factor of the "feel" of cold weather exacerbated by wind.