My current 506 hydrominders for all my chemicals are around 10 to 12 years old now and I have replaced the valve parts over the years. But when I was talking to a Blendco salesman he asked me how old they were and he said that they should be replaced. I am curious as to why he said that. Are there any other parts that may wear out from normal wear and tear over the years? Is it beneficial to start upgrading my hydrominders to the 511 with the push in meter tips because they now have a wider range of ratios and it might save me money in the long run on chemical?
Do hydrominders eventually go bad?
- Thread starter WikiWash
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Earl Weiss
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AFAIAC they sell virtualy every wearable part, Diaphram, Spring, float. educator etc.
Does he sell Hydrominders or a competing method?
Are you having any issues with his product that makes it convenient for him to blame something else?
Does he sell Hydrominders or a competing method?
Are you having any issues with his product that makes it convenient for him to blame something else?
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
Has anyone had the magnet part rust so bad that it was no longer effective enough?
Greg Pack
Wash Weenie
No, I just change parts on mine. A new diaphragm and cleaning of the inlet screen usually fixes 90% of the problems. If not I check/replace the discharge tube and look for huge water pressure variations during times of heavy flow.
I'm sure they do sell replacements and parts. No I didn't go with Blendco. I'm still searching for the right soap at the right price. Still looking for the best cost per yield while still using a quality product that makes the customers and myself happy. That question just made me think if the valve body and educators erode over time. I wanted to see if anyone else has noticed anything like that.
No, I have changed the diaphragm out before that ever happened. I replace the whole valve assembly with KRs valve parts kit IN6655K. The only way I can see that happening is if your hydrominder sits inside your acid mixing tank and causes the metal housing for the spring and needle to corrode.
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
WikiWash,
We have found over & over again that the diaphragm inside that kit is the same as what is in Dole valves as seen here http://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-3397-dole-dual-inlet-valve.aspx & most of the time just the diaphragm needs to be replaced at a significant savings with just as good of results. This may seem trivial to some car wash operators ... but for us who also are in the laundromat business where a variation of the Dole valve is very common ... this net savings
can be very important to us.mike walsh http://kingkoin.com/USA_Deficit_Reduction.html
Earl Weiss
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FWIW years ago learned about KR on this forum. Use there Foam Soap for show, low PH for pre soak, triple foam Polish Wax and Sealer Wax. Triple foam soap. Use other products for drying agent. wheel cleaner, rain X.
I have had about 6 soap reps say they could match KR cost per car. They couldn't. Basicaly would pull out a KR product and put theirs in. I would see how it looked and how it worked at same dilution and then if neccessary cut back dilution to match the KR cost per car. So, far no one has matched the show and effect at the same cost per car. A couple of reps were lucky to escape unscathed.
jprb
Member
Check the sping! I had a sping, under the magnet, rust and break. I caused the valve to not shut of and overflow the tank.
FYI
JPRB
FYI
JPRB
cleaning up mud
Member
yes, but I drill out the screws, put In a rebuild kit and put it back together with stainless screws. works good.
