Drying Ability/Final Rinse Question

[hkim310]

We are currently using a Rain Arch for our Sealer Wax, Drying Agent, and Final Rinse. The Sealer Wax and Final Rinse only come on for specific wash packages and the Drying Agent is applied to all wash packages, including the Basic Wash. In order of sequence, which one's should be turned on first, second, and last? Also, do you have to have a Final Rinse or can the Sealer Wax or Drying Agent be the final rinse? Because the Sealer Wax and Drying Agent are coming from a Rain Arch, all of the soap is usually off from either one of these applications but I did now know from a chemistry perspective if a final rinse is required for better drying?

 

[rph9168]

You might not need to have a final rinse if your drying agent is applied through a rain arch. Probably will just have to test it to see if it spots. If that works you might not even need the final rinse. I have seen several sites where they apply drying agent or even highly diluted super sealant in a rain arch that do not use a final rinse. A lot depends on the dilution rate you are using.

 

[Earl Weiss]

I have what is called a "Setting Arch" after the DA. It is fresh water.

Seems counterintuitive to add water after something that helps the water run off but for whatever reason it works.

 

[robert roman]

It is important to have some understanding of the chemistry.

For example, most sealer waxes impart higher surface contact angle than drying agent. So, if you apply sealer wax first, there is no need to apply drying agent afterward because there is no additive effect.

Final rinse is recommended for sealer waxes and Rain-X online because these products tend to effervesce and fresh water helps curing process.

Likewise hot wax requires final rinse because it also takes time to set-up or cure.

So, final rinse with fresh water always makes sense because most rinsing applications contain chemical.

 

[hkim310]

Does that mean that mean that on top packages you all are NOT including Drying Agent if you have Sealer Wax as part of those packages? Is it necessary to have a high pressure Halo Arch clean off the remaining soap BEFORE Drying Agent/Sealer Wax/Rain X is applied? Based on your experience Robert is there a noticeable difference, in terms of drying ability/look of vehicle, of not having a final rinse on vehicles that receive sealer wax/rain x/hot wax?

 

[robert roman]

“Does that mean…..NOT including Drying Agent if you have Sealer Wax as part of those packages?

Yes.

“Is it necessary to….high pressure…..off the remaining soap BEFORE Drying, (etc.) is applied?”

Older friction washes placed a flooder arch (usually reclaim water) after the curtains and wraps for this purpose.

Most modern washes use hybrid cleaning process and usually place an Omni-type device (wheels and top nozzles) after friction to achieve this which also serves same purpose as flood arch.

“….is there a noticeable difference, in terms of drying ability/look of vehicle, of not having a final rinse on vehicles that receive sealer wax/rain x/hot wax?”

Yes.

Sealer wax like double bond, rain repel like rain-x and body shield, hot wax and similar products like ICE work because they have film forming properties.

These products may also contain reactive silicones, detergent, alcohol and natural and synthetic wax (polymer).

So, excess needs to be rinsed off so film can dry and cure properly.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Does that mean that mean that on top packages you all are NOT including Drying Agent if you have Sealer Wax as part of those packages? Is it necessary to have a high pressure Halo Arch clean off the remaining soap BEFORE Drying Agent/Sealer Wax/Rain X is applied? Based on your experience Robert is there a noticeable difference, in terms of drying ability/look of vehicle, of not having a final rinse on vehicles that receive sealer wax/rain x/hot wax?

You have lots of good questions. IMO the best answer is that due to the variables present your best answer will come thru experimentation. Using an HP arch simply for rinsing is an expensive choice.

 

[rph9168]

I agree with Earl. I think you may have to experiment for a while to discover what works best for your wash. I have seen washes that have injected a small amount of sealant or drying agent in the final rinse with no residual problems creating improved drying. I have also seen washes that do not apply drying agent after a sealant that do well. If your drying agent is set up properly the cost should not be that great so if you need it to improve drying results I would not be that concerned about the small cost. I also agree that rinsing with an HP arch does not make sense. Setting rinse arches do a great job as well if you have one.

 

[hkim310]

Guys/Gals, that's exactly the reason I originally posted this question. I was taking a look at our water consumption per vehicle last year and it was higher than the previous 2 years as well as just in general being higher than the average for "most" car washes. We originally had a high pressure halo arch rinsing all packages as well as drying agent, sealer wax, and fresh water rinse for our two top packages. I have since turned off the halo arch completely. I tested to see if all of the soap/wax was getting removed from the rain arch and it seems to be getting all of it off. I also removed the drying agent from the packages that include sealer wax and only include fresh water rinse for the top 2 packages (packages that include sealer wax / rain x / hot wax.) I will keep tinkering/testing to see what the best results are. Thanks for all of the insight guys/gals.......

 

[washnshine]

I agree with what everyone has said in this post. Another factor can also be your chain speed, which may change at various times due to your conditions/needs. This will also have an effect on your drying chemistry. What is needed to set up and dry 50, 80 and 110 cph will be different - so keep that in mind as you experiment with different configurations and chemicals.

Good luck.