Equipment Room Door Lock

[Noob]

Good morning guys, I had a thief try to break into my equipment room last night but luckily they were caught in the process. I currently only have a regular door lock and a dead bolt. The thief was trying to pick my locks. Can you guys give me some ideas/suggestions as to how you secure your equipment room? Pictures would be great. Thanks guys.

 

[bert79]

I’ll be following this thread. We are about to install a new equipment room door and in the process will install a new lock. I’m getting sick of getting keys out every time to unlock the mech room door when i am on property. Maybe there is a keyless option that works well? Something wifi enabled maybe so i can lock and unlock from a phone?

 

[Roz]

Install a steel door plate that covers the crack between the two doors to the equipment room, or covers the door to frame area so they cannot get a bar with leverage into the door. Use a 10 rated master lock or a bullnose lock often found on meter boxes and van doors. Hard to pick or cut. Use motion detection cameras to be alerted to any attempt before they can get into the place.

 

[OASIS WASH]

I put a iron security door on the front of my "regular" door when I bought my place a year ago. Anything can obviously be broken into but I just feel like its a great deterrent to go find one without the security door. Cost me about $500 installed

 

[JMMUSTANG]

Install a steel door plate that covers the crack between the two doors to the equipment room, or covers the door to frame area so they cannot get a bar with leverage into the door. Use a 10 rated master lock or a bullnose lock often found on meter boxes and van doors. Hard to pick or cut. Use motion detection cameras to be alerted to any attempt before they can get into the place.

100% agree
Make sure it covers the door lock and the dead bolt lock.
I would also put a peep hole in the door with a sign that says “smile for the video”

 

[MEP001]

Make sure your hinges are either welded-pin or have a set-screw to prevent the pin from being removed (Only an issue if the door opens out).

Grills in the door need to be secure, and ideally should have heavy steel of some sort to prevent someone gaining access. Just the other day I had the idea to zip-tie a box fan to the inside of the grill on the door to draw air in, but I couldn't fish the ties through so I went to take the grill off. The idiots who installed it put it on backwards and for the last 18 years anyone with a Phillips screwdriver could have just taken out four screws on the outside and climbed through.

One local operator I know swears by a multipoint lock system with a single keyway in the center of the door and bolts on all four sides. I haven't looked at it carefully but I wouldn't use a single keyway system unless it was something extremely pick-resistant like a Medeco lock.

Right now I have a commercial grade Schlage lever lock and two deadbolts, both much higher quality than household stuff from Home Depot. It was expensive but it would take a non-pro an extremely long time to get in. One deadbolt is double-cylinder in case they gain access through the roof, then they can't go out the door.

I haven't been able to find a proximity entry knob, something where I could carry a fob that would let it unlock when I'm within 10 feet of the door. I like Schlage's household keypad entry, but I wouldn't use it where I am.

 

[Keith Baker]

I installed this about a year ago and I am very happy with it. I think the magnet has a 600 pound pull. I set the timer on the key fob for 5 seconds so
it unlocks just when I get there and locks right after I get through. Works great. I can't find a brand name but the invoice shows who I bought it from.

 

[MEP001]

I like that - so it's a passive fob you only have to carry? It'd be great if you can use the fob buttons to arm/disarm an alarm too.

 

[Noob]

That is very nice. Love it.