Feed Water Pressure and Watts Regulator

[stampedecarwash]

Hello, I noticed pressure on the gauge where city water comes to the SS solenoid before they go to the hot water tank is about 80 psi, while usually not that high. (see pics) Would this create problems? When I played with the regulator (after 4 years), it seems to be nicely staying at about 20-30 psi depending on how many pumps are running. If I need to change the Regulator, where do you buy it from? Coleman Hanna price is crazy high.

Also how often do you change these? every 20 years? It seems to be very painful to change it. The whole mechanism need to be removed. and dismantled since they are all so close to each other. which tells me I probably end up breaking more stuff than fixing this. So I might just leave it alone until I see serious issue.

I also see increase in pressure in my spot free gauges. Perhaps the whole city pressure increases sometimes? and the problem is somewhere else? I'm not even sure if there is a problem lol. Can it be the big back pressure valve ? but that valve is 100% open all the time.

 

[cantbreak80]

PRVs aren't cheap

Watts U5B-Z3 Pressure Valves

Series U5B-Z3 High Performance Water Pressure Reducing Valves are used in commercial, industrial, and residential applications to reduce incoming water pressure for protection of plumbing system components and to reduce water consumption. It consists of a bronze body construction, integral...

www.supplyhouse.com

 

[MEP001]

I'm not sure why there's a regulator on that line unless it's for the weep. IIRC the solenoids are rated for 150 PSI MOPD, so 80 won't bother them. I've taken the regulator out on that system when it has failed. The pressure to the spot free from the city doesn't affect anything since it uses a Procon pump. Inlet pressure doesn't change the output pressure.

Edit: The max inlet pressure rating for Cat 5CP2120W pumps is 60 PSI, so the regulator does serve a purpose. You certainly don't have to get it from Coleman or even stick to one with that range, as long as you can set it below 60 PSI.

 

[stampedecarwash]

This a pic of the main regulator from city. Is it normal too see some small leak from this? It has been there for at least 4 years lol. Maybe this regulator going bad???

 

[MEP001]

That is a backflow preventer, not a regulator. It's pretty easy to rebuild, but if you expect to replace all the internal parts you're almost better off replacing the whole valve IMO. Mine is leaking badly, and a total rebuild is only $50 less than a new unit.

 

[stampedecarwash]

That is a backflow preventer, not a regulator. It's pretty easy to rebuild, but if you expect to replace all the internal parts you're almost better off replacing the whole valve IMO. Mine is leaking badly, and a total rebuild is only $50 less than a new unit.

Mr. MEP001 I just love your responses here. Sometimes I tend to try to make my carwash a perfect one, and I know I will end up making it worse. I just need to close my eyes and pass.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

If I need to change the Regulator, where do you buy it from? Coleman Hanna price is crazy high.

I'm not familiar with your setup so perhaps someone else can chime in, but I dont see a bypass hose coming off that watts, so I think you could replace it with a simpler - and therefore much less expensive - model?

 

[MEP001]

I'm not familiar with your setup so perhaps someone else can chime in, but I dont see a bypass hose coming off that watts, so I think you could replace it with a simpler - and therefore much less expensive - model?

It's a Coleman Super Saver, that manifold has the rinse solenoids and weep on it. It's just a simple inline regulator like this one:

LF26A - Watts

Lead Free* Small Pressure Regulators, 2-Way

www.watts.com

 

[stampedecarwash]

its this guy to be exactly the same:
0009128 - Watts 0009128 - 3/4" LFU5B-LP-Z3 Low Pressure Reducing Valve with Bypass Feature, Lead Free (supplyhouse.com)

 

[MEP001]

It definitely doesn't need to be a $535 regulator. See what the MOPD rating of the solenoids are, and whatever you replace it with just needs to adjust below that pressure.

 

[Randy]

When I was a young man I was a state certified backflow tester/instructor. I repaired a lot these backflow unit so they would pass the yearly inspect/test. When was the last time this unit was tested? Open it up and look for any debris inside primarily under the rubber check valves. You can flip over the rubber on check valve to get more life out of them. If you have to replace it replace it with a Zurn Wilkins 975XL, the parts are less expensive and they are easier to work on. I'd replace the regulator with a Wilkins, they are less expensive. I've never been a big fan of Watts products.

 

[Keith Baker]

I didn't see anyone mention an expansion tank. At my place an expansion tank is required because I have a stored hot water system with backflow valves. When the water heats it builds up pressure because the backflow won't let it release to the city system. If the tank has failed then the water pressure could do what your describing. Do you have a tank like this in the area of the hot water tank? https://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-...MIhdv5nOqB8AIVDfDACh23WgAwEAYYASABEgLW3_D_BwE

 

[srr5008]

We just replaced our Watts regulator $450 for a 1.5" unit.

Unfortunately we've had to replace it several times in the last 10 years - we will be looking at a different brand (possibly Zurn, as suggested above by Randy). We seem to have problems with the pressure creeping (doubling) with ours after a few years of use.

 

[OurTown]

I'm just speculating here but could it be that you have a more than normal amount of abrasive sediment coming in that is wearing the seals quick?

 

[Greg Pack]

We just replaced our Watts regulator $450 for a 1.5" unit.

Unfortunately we've had to replace it several times in the last 10 years - we will be looking at a different brand (possibly Zurn, as suggested above by Randy). We seem to have problems with the pressure creeping (doubling) with ours after a few years of use.

Yeah.my watts 2" is not lasting long at all-maybe a year. City Pressure is close to 150 psi.Will regulate but pressure creeps back up when the flow stops. I understand for longevity I need two in series to stage the pressure down.

 

[cleaning up mud]

Hello, I noticed pressure on the gauge where city water comes to the SS solenoid before they go to the hot water tank is about 80 psi, while usually not that high. (see pics) Would this create problems? When I played with the regulator (after 4 years), it seems to be nicely staying at about 20-30 psi depending on how many pumps are running. If I need to change the Regulator, where do you buy it from? Coleman Hanna price is crazy high.

Also how often do you change these? every 20 years? It seems to be very painful to change it. The whole mechanism need to be removed. and dismantled since they are all so close to each other. which tells me I probably end up breaking more stuff than fixing this. So I might just leave it alone until I see serious issue.

I also see increase in pressure in my spot free gauges. Perhaps the whole city pressure increases sometimes? and the problem is somewhere else? I'm not even sure if there is a problem lol. Can it be the big back pressure valve ? but that valve is 100% open all the time.

just changed ours due to it busted in the freeze, $125.00 dollars

 

[cleaning up mud]

Hello, I noticed pressure on the gauge where city water comes to the SS solenoid before they go to the hot water tank is about 80 psi, while usually not that high. (see pics) Would this create problems? When I played with the regulator (after 4 years), it seems to be nicely staying at about 20-30 psi depending on how many pumps are running. If I need to change the Regulator, where do you buy it from? Coleman Hanna price is crazy high.

Also how often do you change these? every 20 years? It seems to be very painful to change it. The whole mechanism need to be removed. and dismantled since they are all so close to each other. which tells me I probably end up breaking more stuff than fixing this. So I might just leave it alone until I see serious issue.

I also see increase in pressure in my spot free gauges. Perhaps the whole city pressure increases sometimes? and the problem is somewhere else? I'm not even sure if there is a problem lol. Can it be the big back pressure valve ? but that valve is 100% open all the time.

Isnt that for the weep system?