fixing in-floor heat instead of replacing the whole floor.

[partonken]

Ive heard of car washes that have detected in floor heat leaks using an electrical gun, heat sensor of sorts that detects heat loss. Does anyone have any experience using this method. It would be much cheaper to repair than replace the whole floor! The heat should be in straight lines in the floor but a leak would be one big mass of heat. Thanks! ken

 

[JGinther]

There are companies that specialize in leak detection... It would probably be well worth it for their service call fee. I don't see that method producing very good results though as the leak would go under slab and percolate and would not bring the heat to the top of the slab. Pressurizing the system with air, and then using an ultrasonic listener for the noise from the air leaking out seems to work pretty well, as I have done it in two locations.... Just be sure that the tubing can handle the air pressure first!

 

[Dcalhoun]

Many HVAC contractors have thermal imaging guns that are very efficient in detecting heat loss. The HVAC guys we use tell me they detect in ground heat loss quite often and easily. You might want to check with a commercial HVAC contractor in your area to see if they could help you locate a leak.

 

[cantbreak80]

Or, you could try a bottle of Fix A Leak for about $40. It's worked astonishingly well for me.
http://www.fixaleak.com

 

[Ric]

Did for me too.

 

[robblackburn]

Or, you could try a bottle of Fix A Leak for about $40. It's worked astonishingly well for me.
http://www.fixaleak.com

Does this stuff really work ? The web site does not have much information.

 

[washnvac]

Yes, it worked for me. I used it in two separate systems. I had slow leaks in each. Just follow the instructions, and be sure to let it circulate for at least 48 hours. (with no heat, of course) I do not know how, but the leaks have stopped altogether.

 

[robblackburn]

Fix a leak

Yes, it worked for me. I used it in two separate systems. I had slow leaks in each. Just follow the instructions, and be sure to let it circulate for at least 48 hours. (with no heat, of course) I do not know how, but the leaks have stopped altogether.

question on how to use fix a leak from marlig industries ?
It sounds like you turn the boiler off and let the system circulate for 48 hours and then turn off for another 48 hours to cure. Where do you add the product and how much did you use. I am concerned about adding right before the pump and having it clog up something since it must be a thick product.

Thanks .

 

[washnvac]

I added it in the expansion tank. At the moment, I do not recall if it is before the pump or after. But is should not affect it on either side. The product goes to where the leak(s) is/are. Yes, I ran it for 48+ hours, then off. I just poured in a little more than the recommended amount for my gallonage on the system. It was not a whole lot. And frankly, I am amazed that the stuff even worked, let alone trying to figure out how it worked.

One system was losing about 1-2 gallons a week. For three years since the fix-a-leak, no loss.

 

[mmurra]

We used it a couple years ago for a slow leak and it worked perfectly. Two years, no more leaks. No other problems. Wonderful!!

 

[acbruno]

Seemed to have worked for me for now....

I bought a 32 ounce bottle of this stuff from intheswim.com after talking with a guy from the manufacturer. He recommended mixing the contents with an equal amount of glycol/water before introducing it into the heating system. That stuff is very thick so I see why this is needed. He told me to run the system with the heat on and it should seal the leaks within 5 minutes. I think it worked because even before when the system was off I would see pressure drops of a couple of pounds per day. It has now been four days and I have not observed a pressure drop yet.

 

[A.Milton]

I have often wondered what I would do if I suspected a leak in my floor heat..what a relief to know fix a flat could be the answer. I want to thank the posters on this board for taking the time to respond to the questions asked. I'm a new owner of an old carwash, well built in its day but had been neglected for a few years before I purchased. I have no mechanical, plumbing, or electrical knowledge in my hard drive but always been a hard worker and a willingness to learn. I've had some BAD days but they are getting far and fewer between...knock on wood. Two things I know for sure.....if it's not broke don't fix it....and there are at least 25 ways to skin a cat. Not literally...but every wash is configured differently to achieve the same result. Unbelievable...so now I'm curious as to the why they did it this or that way...the posters on this board have helped me tremendously....like knowing the floor heat can be repaired..that was a big concern of mine..thank you all for taking the time and having the patience to answer the newbies questions. Great group of people!

 

[2Biz]

I’ve often wondered the same thing. “WHAT IF”…Although, since I have a demand style floor heat system, would the “Fix –a-Leak” plug up my heat exchanger? It is not like a normal boiler with 20’ of coiled 1.25” copper tubing as the heat exchanger. It utilizes a much smaller SS heat exchanger with much smaller passages to heat the fluid quicker. I would hate to spring a leak, put this stuff in, and have it destroy my demand heater. Something to consider “IF” I start having issues.

 

[Randy]

2Biz, I think your right. If you used the sealer in your type system I think it would plug up the heat exchanger on the heater.

 

[acbruno]

2Biz, I think your right. If you used the sealer in your type system I think it would plug up the heat exchanger on the heater.

You could put the fix-a-leak in your system and bypass the heat exchanger while you run if for a day or two then purge all the liquid from your system and replace it with new.

 

[mjwalsh]

You could put the fix-a-leak in your system and bypass the heat exchanger while you run if for a day or two then purge all the liquid from your system and replace it with new.

I think both 2Biz & Randy makes some very valid points. We have been happily using a very effective Spirec heat exchanger to gain efficiency from heating the better specific gravity regular boiler water (combustion chamber wise) than antifreeze directly for over 20 years ... I kind of wonder if the "fix a leak" could even potentially plug something within that type of indirect inline heat exchanger?

Our system is a Huron Valley System from 1980 & has never been purged & replaced ... I wonder how difficult it would be to purge & replace all the antifreeze solution thoroughly like ACBruno suggests???

mike walsh www.kingkoin.com

 

[2Biz]

You could put the fix-a-leak in your system and bypass the heat exchanger while you run if for a day or two then purge all the liquid from your system and replace it with new.

I thought of that too! Thanks....I'm glad I installed the bypass/service valves. As a last resort, if I did get a leak, I'd have to try it.

MJ, I bet your Spirex Heat Exchanger is the same...Very small passages to make it efficient. I think I'd find a way to bypass it if I ever needed to use the stuff.

If you have service ports and shutoff valves, purging and replacing the AF isn't hard at all. If you look at my set up, I have a shutoff valve between two service ports. You simply shut the Ball valve in the middle of the service ports and purge with air. Then fill the same way till all the air is out. I used a cheap HF sump pump to do the filling/air purging....

 

[cantbreak80]

2Biz
FixALeak would likely clog your Spirovent. Luckily, it can be disassembled and capped while the "stuff" sets up. But, that's just for future reference since you'll likely never need a treatment.

BTW...FixALeak is not a permanent solution...but, it sure extends the time until you have to ChaChing the concrete guy.