Flash Drying

[Bosborn52]

Looking at getting a dryer car... like everyone else.

We currently have this configuraton in 3 of our 4 tunnels.

Only difference is the side dryers are lower on the post.

We have 1 tunnel that is 115' with 15' of drip space and 2 tunnels that are 135' with around 20' of drip space.

Our major problem wash is a new 100' tunnel where there is only 10' of drip space and we have our High Pressure going on pretty close to the end of the wash. We are currently getting bids to build a dryer wall to combat the misting issue.

Our dryer setup there is pretty close to this:

It's a peco tunnel and it seems to move the water alot better than our macneil tunnels.

We use a high ph presoak set at 11.6 - 11.9 ph. We then use a low ph lube foam later in the wash that is set at around 2.7 - 3.0 ph.

Currently using qualchem Q Dry as our drying agent and use their Hydropel as our rain x and foamy polishes.

Looking to see if flash drying is a viable option for us. I understand that we do not currently use alot of blowers in our current setup.

Does anyone have any expeirence with these two:

http://www.sonnysdirect.com/c-112-wet-environment.aspx

http://www.macneilwash.com/equipment-details.php?id=466

Will we see a noticable improvement? I understand there are other ways to get a sure fire dry vehicle, but they cost more and we are not looking at heating our dryers.

We are in the midwest, so this time of year is tough to get a really dry vehicle.

Thank you for your time.

 

[Robert Bailey]

you tried cold wax ?

 

[briteauto]

I understand this might not be feasible to do now with a new tunnel, but I would think you would want the high pressure at the beginning of the tunnel. That is where it will do what it does best - after the presoak and before the friction part of the wash. You also wouldn't have the misting problem near your blowers.

While 10' is not a lot of drip space, it should be enough to get away without a flash dry. I associate the flash dry set ups in places where there is virtually no room (mini tunnels) between the last arch and the blower, so the rinse water is still moving on the surface of the vehicle and the blower is so close, it helps push it along before it breaks.

Ten feet, at the right chain speed should allow you to get a decent break on the water. Obviously, 15' - 20' is preferred.

Also - the dryer wall will most likely help keep the moisture out of the impellers, as they will be directly behind the barrier, but you will still have a large opening, and depending on how much mist you have, it may not completely solve your problem.


Mike

 

[Earl Weiss]

I can't say "how Dry is dry". But, FWIW I just changed my configuration at a location and am really pleased with the results. (5 AVW 15HP units)

There is a single top unit perhaps a little higher than I would like and then 8 feet later their are twin center tops with flipping nozzles to do the backs of SUVs and Vans and one on each side. They are 3 of the older AVW units f0r the first and sides.

The arch was higher to accomodate the later flips and we all thought this would decrease the efficiency of the nozzle and perhaps it did slightly but the air stream was broader covering the width of the vehicle instead of just the center so it was a happy accident.

I am on Chicago's North side if you are ever around this way.

 

[JMMUSTANG]

We use the AVW 5Hp. single oscillating blower on the top immediately (12-18") after the rain bar and drying agent application.
With this setup we were able to shut off our medium rinse and use 2 rain bars.
Would it more beneficial to shut down or reduce your your high pressure rinse and add 1-2 rain bars from the ceiling?

 

[robert roman]

“Our major problem wash is a new 100' tunnel where there is only 10' of drip space and we have our High Pressure going on pretty close to the end of the wash. We are currently getting bids to build a dryer wall to combat the misting issue.”

“Looking to see if flash drying is a viable option for us (?)”

As mentioned, flash dry is a technique used mostly in mini-tunnel applications to conserve precious linear space and yet produce acceptable drying quality.

I would not recommend it as a panacea for a full-sized conveyor with a wet car issue.

If you are happy with the level of clean the chemistry and equipment is currently producing, I would wait till you create the drying chamber.

If cars don’t come reasonably dry then, I would suspect you have an equipment and/or chemistry problem, neither of which can be resolved by flash dry.

 

[DavidM]

I know it isn't what you asked but to piggy back on Robert's comments, I would double check everything else before going to flash dry.
Are all vehicles too wet or just the ones that don't get Hydropel?
After the high pressure and before the Q Dry or Hydropel is added, do you see any break at all in the water? You should see some break at that point. If not, I would try to lower the pH. If you are using all QualChem, try increasing the Enhance Low on its last application.
Does your soap supplier think you are getting as dry of a car as possible with those products? Many, many drying issues stem from chemistry.

David