What's new

Fleck Carbon Filter won't stop running water

slash007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
2,479
Reaction score
416
Points
83
Location
Lexington, Ky.
I just got back in town and stopped by one wash only to hear the carbon filter running not stop. I first thought it was just mid cycle, but then found out it had been running for 4 straight days. Water was running out of the drain line at high pressure. I bypassed it for now as my spot free system refused to turn on and generate RO water while the carbon filter was letting water run, but now I need to figure out the issue and fix it. It's a mechanical unit with no screen. I did have some things hit by lighting while gone and we lost power once, so those things could have an effect on how this started. Anyhow, what do I need to check in order to figure out what's wrong? Here are some photos of the head. 20230722_202842.jpg 20230722_202908.jpg 20230722_202854.jpg
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,665
Reaction score
3,946
Points
113
Location
Texas
Turn the dial in the center around where the small arrow marker on it (Currently ay 9 o'clock) is pointing to the "Time of day" arrow. You should feel a more solid click at that point where the main switch drops into the home position. You can swing the timer door open to see and confirm this, it's on the outside of the disk with the pins in it to control the regeneration. If the motor doesn't run to return the piston home, the motor might be bad. You can check with a voltmeter to confirm if it is or isn't getting power, but there's really nothing else to cause this but a bad switch.

The little brass colored bit sticking out of the left side of the motor is the end of the motor shaft. You might be able to chuck a drill onto it and spin it to return the piston to the fully out position, which will put it into service until you can get a motor. The plastic cam disk on the right side where the switches are needs to turn clockwise or it will break the switches if it turns the wrong way. You can always take the screws out of them and leave it hanging loose to be extra safe.
 

Buckeye Hydro

Active member
Joined
Jun 18, 2022
Messages
198
Reaction score
128
Points
43
Fleck valves... ugh. They work fine - until they don't. And then they are a pain to work on - especially if you have to replace the guts of it.

I'd agree with MEP - either a switch or the motor is bad. Or the piston and seals/spacers need to be replaced. Rather than fixing it... are you up for replacing the entire valve?
 
Last edited:

slash007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
2,479
Reaction score
416
Points
83
Location
Lexington, Ky.
Thanks guys. I'm heading there this morning and will see what I find out. I'm up to whatever it takes, need to get it going again.
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,665
Reaction score
3,946
Points
113
Location
Texas
If the main drive motor is bad, it's not hard to replace. No need to replace the whole head, especially when the only person recommending it is wanting to sell you one.
 

Buckeye Hydro

Active member
Joined
Jun 18, 2022
Messages
198
Reaction score
128
Points
43
Always a distinct pleasure dealing with you MEP. Very special.

If it is just the motor, or a switch, I agree. Easy replacement. If you need more extensive valve maintenance - as in pulling the seals and spacers, and if you need to rebed the unit so you're going to pull the valve off the tank anyway... I'd consider a different valve. Regardless of who you buy it from. Especially if you're going to have to call someone in to do that job for you. Valves are expensive, so consider that. The larger the valve, the more expensive it is.
 

Buckeye Hydro

Active member
Joined
Jun 18, 2022
Messages
198
Reaction score
128
Points
43
Not interested in your game. Perhaps we can focus on the OP's situation.
 

slash007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
2,479
Reaction score
416
Points
83
Location
Lexington, Ky.
I stopped by the wash this morning and noticed that the dot in the middle dial was lined up with the "time of day". I turned the water back on to the unit and it seemed to be working fine, so I left it on and plan on checking it daily. Would a power loss mid cycle possibly cause it to stay on like it did?
 

MEP001

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
16,665
Reaction score
3,946
Points
113
Location
Texas
It shouldn't, but maybe it did, and handling it caused it to unstick. Is the time correct so it won't cycle during the day?
 

Buckeye Hydro

Active member
Joined
Jun 18, 2022
Messages
198
Reaction score
128
Points
43
If the power went off during the backwash, it would have stayed in that position until the power came back on. The unit has an "internal clock" that requires power. Push in the red "button" and rotate the larger toothed wheel until the Time of Day arrow points to the correct time of day on the larger toothed wheel.

Check on it a number of times over the next day/week to make sure the time of day shown is still correct (meaning the gears are turning as they should).

Take a look at your skipper wheel in the lower right of the face. You'll see it has a 7-day wheel. This wheel advances one day (say from number 2 to number 3) each calendar day. Can't really tell from your picture, but are any of the pins pushed outward away from the center of the wheel? Maybe the pin at day 4? That would mean it will backwash when the wheel advances to Day 4 - so it would backwash once per week on that day. If none of the pins are pushed outward, it will never backwash.

Russ
 

slash007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
2,479
Reaction score
416
Points
83
Location
Lexington, Ky.
The time of day was incorrect when I found it gushing water, so I set it that day. 2 days later the time was still correct. I'll check it daily and see how it goes.
 
Top