Float for Rinse Tank

[MDrost1]

I have a CASA float, with out stainless seat in my rinse tank. 3/4". I change the cup and seal kit every 4-6 months. Are there any floats that out perform this one in consistency? I don't mind rebuilding every year. There has got to be a float valve that will give me no hassle longevity. Thanks!

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Short answer...there isn't a good valve out there.

 

[MDrost1]

Ha! What do you use?

 

[MEP001]

If you have the room to use a 1" valve, I recommend Floatmaster. For some reason the 1/2" and 3/4" aren't any better than what you have now, but the 1" last a couple years for me without needing a new diaphragm. The main reason I like them is because I've never had one stick full open or fail to open and starve the wash. Worst case they dribble and overfill the tank.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Ha! What do you use?

A solenoid valve behind the float valve. You can use any old junky valve then, because the solenoid will only let water flow when a pump is running.

 

[BBE]

Is it in a hot water rinse tank? If so, make sure you are getting a float rated for your water temperature. We've had good luck with jobe valves, none of them are perfect, but the jobe valves have performed well for us.

 

[DiamondWash]

I have this and it has yet to fail it's going on 4 years now no problems.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2019-hudson-float-valves-high-temperature-1.aspx

 

[bighead]

Is it in a hot water rinse tank? If so, make sure you are getting a float rated for your water temperature. We've had good luck with jobe valves, none of them are perfect, but the jobe valves have performed well for us.

I second the jobe valve, especially in cold water. Try this one first before you try anything else....

I went through 3 brands before I found jobe through the forum. Now I have 4 in use and 1 as a backup (most of the time the valve portion fails and it is designed so that portion separates from the mount so it only takes 2 minutes to switch out without having to use a wrench)

 

[Earl Weiss]

A few years ago I switched to this:
https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-12900-572-hydrominder-float-valve-only-with-mounting-bracket.aspx

May not need the bracket and that would be an IN573.

Advantage for me was I use the same one for the SS rinse tann and 2 tunnels for the surge tank.

They last years and I just keep a valve parts kit on hand. The kit is easy to install.

it is a lot pricier than Diamond washes choice.

 

[MDrost1]

Yes...hot water rinse

 

[pgrzes]

Jobe valves!!!! Xcellent

 

[MDrost1]

Is there a fail safe with these Jobe valves? My CASA just ends up flooding the tank, which is fine with me as I definitely don't want to starve the pumps. Thanks!

 

[2Biz]

I like the Walters two stage float valve. I've never had one fail. No chatter or hammer. I can't say the same for the Cleveland float valve. I didn't have any luck with them.

 

[Randy]

Over the years we’ve tried every float valve made. The CASA, Walters, Bob valves would all fail, when failed they wouldn’t shut off. The Hudson valve when it failed it wouldn’t open, causing damage to the pump. The best valve we found is the Jobe valve. Very seldom do we ever have any problems with the Jobe valves.

 

[MDrost1]

When the Jobe valves begin to fail, what symptoms occur? Does it leak or starve the system?

Also, what valve do you recommend for warm/hot water rinse?

 

[bighead]

When the Jobe valves begin to fail, what symptoms occur? Does it leak or starve the system?

Also, what valve do you recommend for warm/hot water rinse?[/QUOTE

All the ones that have failed on me (and that isn't that many) have started dribbling slowly, so slowly the tank overfills. Usually I catch it before it become a leak onto the floor because my booster pump will be running when there should be no activity.

Gotta learn the sounds of you equipment.

 

[Wet Spot]

I also use the Hudson valve, did have a big problem with it running constant one time for two days, not good! But overall good, probably my fault not changing it out after a few years.