I have been adjusting weep ball valves more so then previous years. Always creeping up. Should I adjust the amount of water by partially closing valve where I tapped into my main line to supply weep system. This would reduce amount of water going to weep system or do I have another problem? The ball valves for each bay have all been replaced. This is odd. It seems like for some reason I have too much water/ volume or pressure. I don't remember making any changes to system except I did convert one self serve bay to dogwash. So one less pump.
Flow of weep
- Thread starter A.Milton
- Start date
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
You’re saying the weep flow increases, requiring frequent ball valve adjustments?
My first thought is replace the ball valves with Globe valves or metering valves.
The reason? Ball valves are very difficult to adjust for accurate flow control. 90% of the flow regulation occurs in the last 15% of handle travel. It's very non-linear. 15% of the ball valve’s 45° travel is about 7°…so you can see how very touchy they are when used for throttling.
Another possibility is seasonal changes in supply pressure. Some water districts change sources regularly which may increase or decrease incoming pressure. A pressure regulating valve, installed on the weep system tap and adjusted to approx. 50% of the service supply pressure can smooth those variations.
I generally replace all the spray tips at the beginning of the weep season. The tips on the busier bays are always eroded more than the lesser used bays. This results in reduced weep volume to the lesser bays. With all tips simultaneously renewed, (and barring any leaky check valves or fittings), the output volume becomes equalized and flow control adjustment for the various line losses becomes easier, and more consistent.
My first thought is replace the ball valves with Globe valves or metering valves.
The reason? Ball valves are very difficult to adjust for accurate flow control. 90% of the flow regulation occurs in the last 15% of handle travel. It's very non-linear. 15% of the ball valve’s 45° travel is about 7°…so you can see how very touchy they are when used for throttling.
Another possibility is seasonal changes in supply pressure. Some water districts change sources regularly which may increase or decrease incoming pressure. A pressure regulating valve, installed on the weep system tap and adjusted to approx. 50% of the service supply pressure can smooth those variations.
I generally replace all the spray tips at the beginning of the weep season. The tips on the busier bays are always eroded more than the lesser used bays. This results in reduced weep volume to the lesser bays. With all tips simultaneously renewed, (and barring any leaky check valves or fittings), the output volume becomes equalized and flow control adjustment for the various line losses becomes easier, and more consistent.
KleanKars
New member
I always had the same problem too. Finally I bit the bullet and purchased the weep miser. Open valves all the way and let the miser take care of the weep. On and off depending on temp. Best $300+ for my needs.
Stuart
Member
For my weep, I use a flow controller (similar to what we used to put in the shower heads decades ago to save water) which looks like a 3/8 coupler with a rubber disk inside. The disk has a very small hole which regulates the flow. The ones I use allows approx. .19 gpm thru the unit. It is called a "Dole Flow Controller" I get mine from KO Pressure Supply. Just put it in front of the check valve leading to the HP line on each bay.
Interesting concept or alternative to needle valves. I think the key here is what CB80 points out. The proper valve needs to be used. If your trying to set flow, ball valves may not be the best choice.
Earl Weiss
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A. Milton... Why? Are you adjusting the ball valves? Is it to compensate for flow needed at different temperatures or is it to regulate flow needed at different bays or HP/ FB?
If it's a temp thing per post 5 go weep mizer. If it's because different bays need different adjustments whatever you use, set and forget and use the weepmizer.
If it's a temp thing per post 5 go weep mizer. If it's because different bays need different adjustments whatever you use, set and forget and use the weepmizer.
Earl Weiss... I am adjusting the ball valves because the flow of water in 2 of the 4 bays seems to increase. I close the valve back a little and 2-3 days later it has creeped back up. I was going to close the valve back a little where the water goes into weep system but 2 of the bays are fine. What I am working with is a T where 1/2 in hose feeds into 1/8 "weep line pump 1 and 2, and 1/2 " hose feeds into 1/8 " weep line pump 3,4. Same pressure in each but pumps 3 and 4 creep up. I think 1 half inch hose would be enough to feed all 4 weep lines. Or the dole flow controller would work on line to bays 3,4 to back it up a bit. I did not create this mess, been several owners, it just seems like a lot of water being squeezed into that 1/8" weep line.
A. A. Milton, This is how my Weep system is set up. Off the main water service, just downstream of the backflow preventer I have a 1/2” ASCO 8210G34 Normally open solenoid valve, from this valve I have a ½” hose that goes to a ½” manifold that is made of ½” PVC plastic pipe, this manifold runs in back of the pump stand. Off of the ½” manifold going to every pump I have a 1/8” hose that goes to a 1/8” needle valve and a ¼” high pressure stainless steel check valve that is just downstream of the pump. On the end of the manifold there is a 3/8” hose that goes up to a small ¼” manifold with 1/8” needle valves that supply water to the Foam brush system. We control the ASCO valve with a Dixmor Weepmizer and discharge around 20 oz. per minute from each gun and foam brush. This weep system as worked flawlessly for 32 years.
Robert2181
Member
Milton. Make all lines the same Like Randy said. The only time you should ever have to adjust flow is if you have pressure that changes. Even then, one time only.
Milton...Sometimes there's reasons why CW's change hands so often. People fail to invest the time and $$$ to do things properly. Eventually they give up and some other "Unsuspecting Soul" inherents all the problems they created.
You're getting a lot of good advice here. What you do with it is your choice. Randy has given you good advice and CantBreak80 explained to you why ball valves are not the correct choice to control weep flow.
Some food for thought...My weep system was about 30 years old and worked just fine...But it lacked the ability to shut individual bays down during extreme cold. SO I changed it! You have the same options....Maybe this picture will give you some ideas. I control flow with "Needle Valves"...The ball valves are to shut flow off and turn flow on to each individual bay and allows for blowdown. The poly hoses on the bottom are for air and washer fluid. 1/4" poly goes over to each high pressure hose and out to the bays.
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mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
2Biz,Milton...Sometimes there's reasons why CW's change hands so often. People fail to invest the time and $$$ to do things properly. Eventually they give up and some other "Unsuspecting Soul" inherents all the problems they created.
You're getting a lot of good advice here. What you do with it is your choice. Randy has given you good advice and CantBreak80 explained to you why ball valves are not the correct choice to control weep flow.
Some food for thought...My weep system was about 30 years old and worked just fine...But it lacked the ability to shut individual bays down during extreme cold. SO I changed it! You have the same options....Maybe this picture will give you some ideas. I control flow with "Needle Valves"...The ball valves are to shut flow off and turn flow on to each individual bay and allows for blowdown. The poly hoses on the bottom are for air and washer fluid. 1/4" poly goes over to each high pressure hose and out to the bays.
Just a thought ... it seems like you may have been able to accomplish the same individual bay control with the very economical & space saving john guest ball valves that fit on the plastic tubing.
mike walsh www.kingkoin.com
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The 2 poly tubing hoses on the left is for air and washer fluid. They are connected to individual ball valves back at the air supply and WWF pump. I also have a 1/2" "Master" water supply ball valve that feeds the solenoid. This design allows me to shut down 1, 2, 3, or all 4 bays "Individually" OR all at the same time if I want. My intent is to always keep at least one bay open depending on how cold it gets. With only master ball valves, how would I be able to keep a bay or two open and shut down the others?
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
2Biz,
My intent was not to question the number of total ball valves that you needed ... but I just was thinking that the more compact JG ball valves might have also been an alternative. https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2252-john-guest-shut-off-valve-14-tube-x-14-tube.aspx
We have used those plastic ball valves & have not had a problem with them. Also where high pressure doesn't exist the JG plastic check valves have worked well in place of brass or stainless steel check valves.
mike walsh www.kingkoin.com
The 1/4" ball valves used here were about $2.50 each from supplyhouse.com. I bought them before the "Lead Free" valves were mandated. The fittings are not John Guest fittings, they are SMC...They are brass construction...A little heavier duty than John Guest, IMHO...I get the SMC fittings off Ebay and generally don't pay over a buck a piece for them...Plus I recycled some "T" fittings from when I redid my pump stand. A wire brush cleans them up like new! I think I may have $50 bucks in this new weep system...So it didn't break the bank!
Thanks for the heads up on the JG ball valves and cv's. I knew they existed. But I like the more rigid brass valves for this application....
Thanks for the heads up on the JG ball valves and cv's. I knew they existed. But I like the more rigid brass valves for this application....
2biz...unsuspecting soul ... Sounds a lot better then fool!. What I walked into is what one would call a clusterf**k...excuse the language but at very turn I have a problem waiting to happen. if I get one area updated it causes another area to fail. There is no time for preventative measures with equipment because everyday there seems to be another fire to put out just to keep it up and running...impossible to find anyone who knows anything about how these systems are inter related from coin box to equipment room so help is pretty much non existent. It's a nightmare. Having said all that I don't have time to dwell on what I have gotten myself into..I sure appreciate your pictures, very helpful. My weep lines can be easily configured as Randy suggested and am started on it today. There's only one thing in the way...I have a hp line in the mechanical room with a pin hole leak today...this places hates me