I have just replaced an Yamada 15 series on our foam brush that, from what I could tell, was around 7 years old. Using the same pump model and setup that had worked, now it stalls out after the service shuts off. Yamada said to tighten the bolts through the pump, did that, actually made it worse. They also said to put an expansion tube on the delivery side of the pump, didn't work either. We do keep constant pressure on it ,50 psi, and the thought is to put a 3 way valve on it to dump pressure, but do we need to when it used to work?
Foam Brush Pump
- Thread starter DMorton
- Start date
I feel your pain. We got rid of that type of pump years ago for the very problem your having, stalling. About the only thing you can do is put a solenoid valve on the air supply side of the pump with a bleed valve to relieve to air pressure to the pump when it's not being used, you'll also have to put a IDX MX-8 to control the solenoid valve or take it out and replace it with a Flo-jet G57 pump, I know that's not what you want to hear.
WOW, those Yamada pumps are quite expensive compared to a G-57 that will do the job just as good. I've only had to replace my G-57 Flojet FB pump once since buying the wash 5 years ago. I don't know how long it had been in service before that. A G-55 will also work. They call the pump "Bag In A Box" on Ebay and can be bought for about $50. They use them to pump soda pop. The g-57 is rated at about 5gpm, the G-55 is rated at about 3gpm. I have one of the G-55's on my washer fluid winterizing system. It has been flawless for over 3 years.
Earl Weiss
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Dumped Yamadas and switched to flo jets with Viton diaphrams years ago - never looked back.
Make sure you have a water separator just before the supply to the pump(s) . Get an auto dump model to save yourself from having to dump it.
Make sure you have a water separator just before the supply to the pump(s) . Get an auto dump model to save yourself from having to dump it.
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
Air-powered pumps are expected to have dry air supply. The beverage industry feeds them with CO2. Obviously, this is not a solution for the car wash industry.
Most of the failures I’ve seen are due to water and oil contamination of the air motor. Yamada is known for early death due to moisture. FloJet tends to tolerate moisture better, but still…moisture kills.
Relieving pressure via 3-way solenoid and parallel-wired SPST relays is effective for reducing diaphragm stretching but does nothing for keeping the air motor moisture free.
Proper air supply plumbing and reducing moisture is your best defense. Considering that air compressors normally produce considerable moisture, combined with the humid conditions of the car wash’s engine room, one must combat air pump failures with proper strategy.
One can spend significant money on after coolers, air dryers, automatic compressor drains, desiccant filters, etc. But, proper air supply plumbing is typically overlooked as an additional moisture control technique.
1. Route the main high…near the ceiling…with a slight downward slope to the last branch.
2. Tap the main with upward facing tees for each branch. Add 2 elbows to direct the branch downward...Basically, making a u-turn from the tee.
3. Provide a drip leg below each air supply takeoff.
4. Connect nothing to the last branch…this serves as the main “moisture collector”. Drain the main from here.
Use Flojet G57 with Viton diaphragms. (Flojets with Santoprene diaphragms are less expensive but should not be used for waxes or corrosive cleaners)
Most of the failures I’ve seen are due to water and oil contamination of the air motor. Yamada is known for early death due to moisture. FloJet tends to tolerate moisture better, but still…moisture kills.
Relieving pressure via 3-way solenoid and parallel-wired SPST relays is effective for reducing diaphragm stretching but does nothing for keeping the air motor moisture free.
Proper air supply plumbing and reducing moisture is your best defense. Considering that air compressors normally produce considerable moisture, combined with the humid conditions of the car wash’s engine room, one must combat air pump failures with proper strategy.
One can spend significant money on after coolers, air dryers, automatic compressor drains, desiccant filters, etc. But, proper air supply plumbing is typically overlooked as an additional moisture control technique.
1. Route the main high…near the ceiling…with a slight downward slope to the last branch.
2. Tap the main with upward facing tees for each branch. Add 2 elbows to direct the branch downward...Basically, making a u-turn from the tee.
3. Provide a drip leg below each air supply takeoff.
4. Connect nothing to the last branch…this serves as the main “moisture collector”. Drain the main from here.
Use Flojet G57 with Viton diaphragms. (Flojets with Santoprene diaphragms are less expensive but should not be used for waxes or corrosive cleaners)
MEP001
Well-known member
Yamada used to be a good pump - I used to build equipment with them and some that I put in over 20 year ago are still working. They took a major dump in quality control or something and they got where they often wouldn't last a year. They also don't like being dead-headed, something that doesn't seem to affect FloJets.
I keep one spare plus one I use as a transfer pump - rather than having to keep two spares I also use Viton on everything. The Santoprene held up great on presoak and foam brush, lasted 7-8 years dead-headed.
I keep one spare plus one I use as a transfer pump - rather than having to keep two spares I also use Viton on everything. The Santoprene held up great on presoak and foam brush, lasted 7-8 years dead-headed.
mikeexpress
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