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Ginsan weep mizer upgrade

LurkinRaven5

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I have an older ginsan pump stand for my two self serve bays. It's current weep setup is pulling from the soft water which I 'am currently switching over now to regular cold water. I also wanted to update to the weep mizer controller. Right now the system uses a Honeywell thermostat the bulb type. My question really is what do I do with the trickle solenoid (one per bay) that is after the main N.O solenoid. I have read on this forum that you just disconnect the trickle solenoid but what is the main purpose of that trickle solenoid.
 

MEP001

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The individual trickle solenoids are there to keep the weep water from mixing with the low=pressure functions and diluting them. I prefer to regulate the weep pressure down to about 20 PSI so the tire cleaner/presoak overwhelms the weep and stops its flow.

You still need a main trickle solenoid, but you could either remove the individual ones or leave them in place. It'll work the same, the individual ones are controlled by the bay and not the thermostat or the Weep Mizer. If you don't have a lot of freezing temperatures, it'll take many years to recoup the cost of a Weep Mizer, and IIRC you need a normally-open main solenoid to work with it.
 

Toms PTcarwash

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I am not sure how your system is piped up, but if it's like mine you do not want to remove the weep solenoids.
The weep solenoids are normally open and allow water to weep through the guns when the wash is not energized. If you remove them, even with a check valve your weep water will dilute any low pressure functions that run through the gun.
If you have let's say, 30psi presoak and your street pressure to the weep is 60 psi, when the weep is on your customer will get only weep water and no presoak.
 

LurkinRaven5

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That makes sense now I know the trickle solenoid are N.O. just like the main solenoid. I should just keep them in the system so that it doesn't dilute the presoak and tire cleaner. Just replace the thermostat for the weep mizer controller. I'm located in Maryland and this winter been mild so far like last year but today it was 30 all day sucks to waste all that weep water down the drain. At least we got some good snow already so it been very busy. Thanks for all the insight
 

Randy

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We've never used solenoid valves on the pumps for our weep system. We use one solenoid valve to control ll the weep water. We've never had a problem with the weep water diluting any low pressure functions. We run our low pressure functions at around 125psi. We believe in the KISS principle. Call Kleen-rite on Monday and order a Weepmizer you'll be money ahead in no time. I've installed dozens of them over the years and I don't know of anyone who isn't happy.
 

Toms PTcarwash

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I to believe you understand what I was saying.
But to be clear for others, you most likely have a single solenoid that supplies weep water to all bays. This feeds to the individual weep solenoid on each bay. The individual solenoids are normally open and will let the weep water pass through. When some starts a bay with whatever $ are required, the individual bay solenoid should close, blocking the weep water while the bay is active. When time runs out, the solenoid will then allow the weep water through the solenoid to the gun.
 

Toms PTcarwash

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Maybe I am the odd guy out but my low pressures functions work at around 30 psi with foamers
Presoak, tire cleaner, foam brush.
My RO is 150 psi.
 

MEP001

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We've never used solenoid valves on the pumps for our weep system. We use one solenoid valve to control ll the weep water. We've never had a problem with the weep water diluting any low pressure functions. We run our low pressure functions at around 125psi.
Older Ginsan equipment only runs about 40 PSI on the low pressure functions, so 60 PSI city pressure will completely stop the tire cleaner and presoak.
We believe in the KISS principle.
That's always a good one, but sometimes so is "If it works, don't mess with it."
 

MEP001

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Maybe I am the odd guy out but my low pressures functions work at around 30 psi with foamers
Presoak, tire cleaner, foam brush.
My RO is 150 psi.
I run 70 PSI on tire cleaner and presoak, 250 on spot free. I'm hoping to get presoak up to 150 with air. If I can make that look like a snow foam cannon, I'll add a high pressure stand and deliver the spot free at 450. Can't do any of that with those carpet cleaner pumps...
 

DAWGWASH

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I have an older ginsan pump stand for my two self serve bays. It's current weep setup is pulling from the soft water which I 'am currently switching over now to regular cold water. I also wanted to update to the weep mizer controller. Right now the system uses a Honeywell thermostat the bulb type. My question really is what do I do with the trickle solenoid (one per bay) that is after the main N.O solenoid. I have read on this forum that you just disconnect the trickle solenoid but what is the main purpose of that trickle solenoid.
We put a subzero system from Hydrospray a couple of years ago to replace our weep system. It works really well. No weep water wasted and no customers trying to wash their car with weep water and brush. System takes care of the wand and brush with air blow down at certain temp and a combination of air and antifreeze solution at lower temp. Will cycle on and off after each use.
 

2Biz

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Another option would be to remove the PS from the HP wand and put it on its own foam gun....It allows you to get rid of each of the bay weep shutoff solenoids when PS is selected. It also eliminates 3 CV's above each bay....Only down side is you have to install a blowdown/winterizing system for the Foam guns. But while your at it, install the same winterizing system on the FB...Saves a ton of $$$ on weep. I only have 4 CV's in the attic for SFR. Sometimes less is better!
 
Etowah

Earl Weiss

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I have pre soak weeping out of one of my bays. Any advice on how to stop this?
You likely have a bad solenoid valve allowing this product to siphon out. Pull the hose in the equipment room from the exit side of the solenoid valve to see if you have a drip.
 
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