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got call my LW is spraying water, while in Home position

S

soonermajic

Well-known member
Of course I'm stuck at my job, & my part time employee shut it down, but has this happened to anyone? Any advice?
 
I had this happen. Happened when the undercarriage was used. Water came out of the spray arch at the same time. For me it was one of the lexair valves on the stand not closing. I think we rebuilt it with a rebuild kit. However, stuff can get jammed in there not allowing it to function properly.
 
NOTHING is going on but the spray arch is blasting. My employee turned off the breaker, & it stopped.
My installer said the breaker proly arced(sp?) too many times, & welded it on, making it continuously spray....

anyone else...?
 
What kind of pressure? HP? Or city pressure? Is your weep system on? Seems like a silly question. But, you never know.
 
You most likely have a motor contactor that has welded itself together. You may be able to pop it loose and get by until you get a new one. This is not an unusual thing. I've had it happen several times over the years on my Mark VII machines.
 
First, I would check to see if anybody forced on output 35. If somebody did, I would reset the machine. Next, i would check the voltage coming off of output 35, to see if the relay for that output is stuck in the closed position. Then, I would check to see if I had voltage on the coil of the pump contactor, to see if I had a short somewhere providing voltage to the coil. Then, i would check for continuity between the top of the pump contactor, to the bottom of the contactor without voltage going to the coil of the pump contactor.
 
When you say "motor contactor" , where is that? Another guy told me the HP breaker may be welded shut...?

WhiteScout, where/what is "output 35" ? WHere/what pump contactor are you talking about? Big 3535 cat, or what?
 
soonermajic said:
When you say "motor contactor" , where is that?
Click to expand...

The cable from the motor should lead to a big thing with three big wires on each side, probably a couple of smaller wires will be connected to it as well. This is basically a big switch capable of carrying the load the pump/motor combo needs. With the power off, there should be no continuity between each of the three big wires in and the three corresponding wires out. If there is continuity, most likely the points on one of the three have welded themselves together, which will also hold the other two in contact, making the motor run.
 
So that means the motor will run continuously? I turned off the breaker, now the breaker will not trip back on (it stays off).
 
Should be an Allen Bradley (or the likes) contactor, the biggest one you'll see in the cabinet probably, square with a button looking thing in the middle. it should also have a overload protector above it. Looks like a round switch probably to reset it.

If it welded you'll see the contactor stuck, pulled in. For continuous power.

Many times you will see a lot of graphite looking dust under the bad one. Or old ones that wearing out slowly.

Last time my contactor went I thought it was the motor. Luckily just the contactor. About $100.
 
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I haven't checked anything yet. I live 20 miles away, am a full-time teacher & don't finish daily til 3:45. So can never get there before 4:15 daily.

I will see about the 3 -legs, & the AB contactor..
 
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE BE CAREFUL 3 phase 208-230V power will kill you dead especially on a contactor and when pump is running its pulling around 72amps. You can take this motor starter to a local electrical supply or HVAC house and buy one way cheaper than PDQ or a Allen and bradley. They will match the coil voltage/Power and Amp size. Good luck please be careful my friend. Triple check the power when replacing it and have someone there to keep a eye on you. Like your trash guy the wife a good customer ect.. If this is the problem you might also have a bad replay on the output card welded the contacts on it also.
 
My contactor got stuck during a wash one night at 2am and ran until another car went through at 5:30 am spraying hp water for 3 1/2 hours!! Fortunately didnt burn the place down! Next wash cycled contactor and I was able to clean up the contactor, no problem since. Because it was just the contactor my machine didnt code out and call me!! I was watching my cameras and noticed how foggy it was in the bay and went back through tape to see what happened. Surprised water supply kept up!! Always learning new things and seeing crazy stuff at a carwash!!
 
Etowah
Oh man.. That gives a pit in the stomach huh.

I've had good luck cleaning them up too.

The believe the leading cause for problems with these arcing is a bad connection, low leg, or bad ground, which over amps it.

Obviously cleaning up the contactor should be preceeded by finding the problem that caused it, to be sure it doesn't happen again.
 
My installer suggest it's a bad motor contactor in the JO box. He says he is almost sure it is welded shut. When I flip the HP breaker on, in the breaker box, the electric motor just hums.
what are y'alls thoughts...?
 
What kind of contractors do you have? You should be able to see if its pulled in. So it was stuck on running the pump, now it just hums. It sounds like its not getting a full connection at the contactor and the motor can't start.

Get her up and running. Down time is your worst enemy in this business, imo.
 
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I was thinking the same thing its been almost a week and it sounds as though you have a 30 minute repair. You lost way more $$$ in lost customers then the repair would/should cost. If you cant fix it any decent electrician will be able to tell you if its a contactor-breaker or motor issue!! I say contactor but Im not there. Fix it fast!!!!!
 
S really simple, no tools way to check if the contactor is stuck closed, would be to turn off power to the JO box, and turn on power to the pump contactor. If the pump comes on, then the contactor is bad, and you can rule out anything in the JO box. The pump contactor is NOT in the JO box. It should be it's own box, mounted on the wall. You can "trace" the 1" black flexible conduit from the motor to the wall. The contacotor should either be siemens brand or Telemecanique.

You can replace the contactor with any brand, as long as it matches up HP wise, and has a 24vac coil. If you change brands of contactor, you will need to buy the same brand of overload. The only exception, would be if you have Telemecanique, you can use schneider electric brand as they are the same.
 
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Etowah
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