I highly recommend that you not use any spray oils on the
Hamilton Hopper motor brake assembly. WD-40 is a petroleum based product that leaves an oily residue. The oily residues attracts and holds onto dust, dirt, or other contaminants that will cause the brake assembly to operate poorly after a short time. Our favorite lubricant to use on the brake assembly is Tri-Flow with PTFE and we use it very sparingly
https://www.acehardware.com/departm...ine/fluids-and-lubrication/lubricants/1015478 after cleaning the back of the motor with brake cleaner we lubricate the brake assembly and on the white brake lever with a small amount of Tri-flow, wiping off any excess. If the brake assembly is still sticky from someone using oil on the brake assembly then it needs to be torn down and the inside needs to be cleaned. To do this remove the 2 - ¼” screws from the Hopper case and remove the pivot rod, this will give you access to the back of the Hopper motor. Remove the 2 screws that hold down the armature bearing and brake assembly to the back of the motor, set this aside. Carefully remove the white plastic brake arm from its retainer, be careful to not damage the spring. If had a lot of Hoppers come in for repair with the spring shortened so there would be ore tension on the white brake arm, this does not work and it only causes more problems. After we clean the components of the brake assembly we swab components with a Q tip sprayed with Tri-flow as we reassemble the brake assembly. After we reassemble the brake assembly you want to check the clearance of the white plastic brake arm and the cogs on the armature on the motor. To do this push up on the metal brake arm and then rotate the motor armature so the high point of the armature cog is just below the white plastic arm, you want to have about 1/16” clearance between the white plastic arm and the armature cog. To adjust the gap you need to carefully bend the metal brake arm slightly, checking that it is loose when you get the correct clearance.
The brake arm is pulled up by an electro-magnet on the bottom of the motor that is energized when power is applied to the motor. If the gap between the white plastic arm and the armature cogs you can get jamming issues inside of the Hopper at the
coin chute. The Hopper motor is designed to stop on the back of the motor not on the front. If it stops suddenly on the front it is possible that sudden stop could ruin the gears inside the transfer case on the front of the motor.
The only product you should use to clean the inside of the hopper bowl is Windex window cleaner. You should NEVER use, any solvent based cleaner, brake cleaner, cab cleaner, electrical contact cleaner, or WD-40.
What else would you guys like to know about Hoppers. Hopper motor replacement, Hopper bowl assemble or Hopper payout switches. Let me know and I’ll see what I can do.
