Have an old hydrospray system

[Kyle1]

Hey All,
I have a semi run down car wash that I acquired and I’m trying to figure out some big issues:
1) my foam brush is down and I have replaced the old solenoids( I having issues with wiring them)
2) my tire cleaner is down and I have replaced the solenoids (it comes out of the gun but all I’m getting air and the Flowjet isn’t kicking on
3) next is I have an old boiler( that doesn’t work) I’m debating about replacing it with a tankless electric water heater
4) the meter boxes are old Jim Coleman push buttons and I’m trying to look at replace them with rotary switches
Pics are below

 

[Kyle1]

Update I fixed some issues but I am wanting to redo all the wiring and rip out the PLC all together anyone have a proper wiring diagram

 

[MEP001]

There's not really a wiring diagram, but it's a lot simpler than it looks. I've done it with two washes. One was easier because the relay outputs were labeled, the other was not but it was just a matter of applying voltage to the output wires to figure out which solenoids were coming on. The inputs from the bays takes just a couple minutes to go to the meter box and write down a legend for the wire colors. You can use multiplexers, I just used relays which saved about $200.

 

[Kyle1]

Sorry for not replaying sooner @MEP001, the issue I’m really running into is the previous person how was running the place cut wires and change up the entire wire set up and I’m basically trying to figure out how it needs to run from the control box to the solenoids.
1st question: is it suppose to go from the relays to the the node relays and then to the nodes Then the transformer.
2nd question how would I go about “simplifying” it?

 

[Kyle1]

I’m also fairly new to the car wash Industry

 

[MEP001]

The wires are labeled with their color codes in the meter box. Just rip everything out in the control cabinet and run the wires straight to the solenoids. You can see in my pictures everything I removed, and I had to extend the wires from the terminal strips to their connecting wire to the solenoids and the motor contactors.

 

[mac]

If you are new to this and uneasy about this I suggest you find someone who is good, have him do it with you being his shadow. Good luck.

 

[Kyle1]

@mac unfortunately there no one even close to me that won’t charge and arm and leg

 

[mac]

Well that does change things. Maybe you could get a helper and have him record everything. You could then use that to talk to the guy. You are in a tough position and you will have to spend some money. Where are you located? I might know someone close.

 

[Kyle1]

Crestview Florida. It’s a part of the panhandle and unfortunately these are the only 2 SS in the city so I’m pretty much up a salt creek

 

[mac]

Crestview Florida. It’s a part of the panhandle and unfortunately these are the only 2 SS in the city so I’m pretty much up a salt creek

I may be able to help. I’m in Fl and a company I used to own is in Fl. Contact Sam at 239 543 4915 and mention my name. They travel most of the state.

 

[mac]

Another thought. How’s your credit rating? Many manufacturers are real eager to sell machines. All would come with a 2 year warranty. Might simplify things.

 

[Kyle1]

Well I looked at going that route but I’m too stubborn that now I’m on a mission to get the original equipment running properly

 

[Kyle1]

I appreciate it @mac and @MEP001

 

[MEP001]

This is a lot easier than it looks. I would probably run new multiconductor cable to each bank of solenoids, then remove all the unnecessary components, add something to connect the wires to (I prefer terminal stripes and spades but there are barrier strips that you can insert the stripped ends in and tighten a screw) and go by the decal in the meter box. Use whatever color wires you want to connect to the solenoids. I'd probably knock it out in about six hours.

 

[Kyle1]

This is a lot easier than it looks. I would probably run new multiconductor cable to each bank of solenoids, then remove all the unnecessary components, add something to connect the wires to (I prefer terminal stripes and spades but there are barrier strips that you can insert the stripped ends in and tighten a screw) and go by the decal in the meter box. Use whatever color wires you want to connect to the solenoids. I'd probably knock it out in about six hours.

Would you recommend 18 AWG for the wiring or 20?

 

[MEP001]

18 gauge. 22 will work but it's pretty delicate.

 

[mac]

Any new one would come with a 2 year bumper to bumper warranty.

 

[Kyle1]

Any new one would come with a 2 year bumper to bumper warranty.

Well I have a 3 bay SS that has SUPER old D/H and Coleman equipment that is rusted out to the point solenoid connectors are snapping on in the terminal connectors and instead of taking a ton of time to do a full rewired and try to chase ghost I was going to get new equipment for that one but the 4 bay hydrospray I am truly on a mission

 

[MEP001]

I've done a lot of equipment refurbs, and to save a lot of downtime and discomfort it's better to pre-wire things like the solenoid connectors on a table so when you're ready to swap things out you just plug in your new wires. In my second picture above you can see a bunch of new relays on the left side, I had those jumpered in sets and ready to clip onto DIN rails to hook up before I showed up to the site.