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Have an old hydrospray system

Etowah

MEP001

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Your Hydrominder could be bad. Just worked on one today for what might be your issue, the valve wasn't opening fully and was filling the tank so slow that it wouldn't create suction on the soap. A valve kit fixed it.
 

cantbreak80

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Soft water? I believe FL water supply is soap killingly hard (7-10 GPG) to extremely hard (over 14 GPG).

Kip solenoids from the “Old HydroSpray” days may have swollen plunger tips. They operate electrically but the swollen plunger tips do not open to the valve port. These old tips are black in color.

Kip solenoid repair kit from KR feature the red plunger that don't swell.

Also, the Kip solenoid manifolds are likely equipped with integrated metering valves. Make sure they are wide open.
 

Kyle1

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That video tells me nothing.
Well I wasn’t getting any pressure when the soap function was on. But I fixed that
However, still no soap to the bays I tried the following
1) poured soap directly into the tank
2) rechecked the solenoids and they are still good
3) checked the voltage at the bay and I am getting the proper voltage in the bay
 

Kyle1

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With a voltmeter, I have the function pressure on and I check the hot wire with one and I connect it to the nut which gives me a reading of 24 v
 

Dan kamsickas

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With a voltmeter, I have the function pressure on and I check the hot wire with one and I connect it to the nut which gives me a reading of 24 v
Measure across the two wires going to the coil. When you measure from hot to ground on the secondary side of a transformer you very well could be getting false readings.
 

MEP001

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Measure across the two wires going to the coil. When you measure from hot to ground on the secondary side of a transformer you very well could be getting false readings.
Yes, it's entirely possible you've lost the "common" connection back to the transformer in the cabinet. You can also check the solenoid with a screwdriver, when it's energized you'll feel a magnetic pull above the coil and a vibration that's the 60 hertz of the power.
 

Randy

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How much pressure are you getting to the bays? Are you ggetting any high pressure wax out in the bays? Can you post a picture or two of how your pumps are set up?
 

I.B. Washincars

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You've got a lot of weight hanging on that nipple at the pump head. I feel like one day you will come in and see that swinging from the HP hose.
 

Kyle1

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Sorry for the amount of time to reply I have been doing a massive overhaul but I got rotary switches in the bays and now this is where I’m stuck and I’m currently not getting power to the bay
 

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Kyle1

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How I have it wired so far:
Coming from the bay to the relay:
A1+ Relay 1: timer output
A1+(R1) timed output red
R2:TC sol yellow
3PS
4:hp soap
5: FB
6:rinse
7:HP wax
8:spot free
11: low pressure air solenoid
15: tokens (quarter/card coin pulse
16: coin vac output/coin switch

I am now needing to wire in the rest of the control panelI already have the solenoids inside wired up and placed on the respected relays on the 14 port.
I just don’t know where to put the orange motor starter wire and the black hot wire coming from the bay
@MEP001
@Dan kamsickas
Or any one else that can help
 

Kyle1

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I also have the relays jumped on the 11 port as well
 

MEP001

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You have to remove the green relays and the PLCs if you've run 24V AC from a timer in the bay to the rotary switch.
 

Kyle1

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So what type of relays and din setup would be best?
 

MEP001

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You don't need any at all. 24V AC from the timer to the switch, from the switch straight to the solenoids and motor contactor coil. You'll need relays or a multiplexer for the spot free rinse motor and any of your low pressure functions that may have an electric pump, but if the latter are Flojets you can just dead-head the pumps.
 

Kyle1

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So would I need relays for the high pressure functions since it requires a motor?
 

Kyle1

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This is what I have for the tire cleaner, ps and fb since I’m using Flowjet what do I need to setup the hot, coin pulse wire, motor start and the timed hot wire? @MEP001
 

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