Help building pump stand

[TMJ]

Hoping I can get some advice on new to me pump stand I’m putting together.

Original stand is rusted, messy wiring, motors need rewound and all pumps need rebuilt or replaced, it is also only single phase.

Picked up an used stainless proline stand with Baldor 3 phase motor and installed new Arimitsu pumps.

Now to the questions, the original stand has check valves on the water supply inlet to the pump. I bought check valves for the new stand, but looking at it, I don’t believe it needs check valves. Gravity fed water tank with hydrominders. I run Paraplate bypass regulators with weep nozzles, so in my mind the pumps always using more water than it’s recircing so it would never pressurize the suction? Is there any other tricks other than just throttling the water supply to get hp chemicals to flow?

Also removed all the solenoids from proline stand. All my LP functions mounted on the wall. I will need 2 solenoids per pump for HP functions. Any preferences on solenoids? Used to like dema but have had many small solenoid failures, use a lot of asco red hats at work so I’ve been using those recently with much success.

couple pics of different mounting options

 

[MEP001]

Definitely go with KIP solenoids. I don't like using the block style, mainly because it's so hard to get fittings in the outlet. It does take longer to put manifolds together for the solenoids, but the cost difference is negligible. For soap and wax supply you can reverse the flow direction and they will act as their own check valve to keep water at city pressure from backing up into the tanks.

If you plan on feeding only gravity-pressure water to the pumps instead of having city-pressure fed cold rinse, you can get away with not having any check valves on the inlet of the pump, but you may have weep water back up through the pump into the tank. I just plumb the overflow to the drain and don't worry about it. Another option is to have one check valve with the water, soap, and wax all feeding into it, so there's only one valve per pump to worry about. It looks like you're using the valve I prefer, which in my experience has a near zero percent failure rate.

I have helped someone completely replumb the same stand, and I'll try and remember to take some pictures. It's mostly very easy to service, except there's a check valve for the incoming water that's down low and hard to reach.

 

[TMJ]

Thanks for the reply. I have a couple Kip manifolds Ive had waiting to install. Hopefully I won’t regret the manifold.

 

[MEP001]

The best advice I can give on the block style is to not use push-in tubing fittings. They WILL leak eventually, and you'll have to take them all off to change just one. I've had the best luck with the all-plastic John Guest poly tube fittings from Kleen-Rite, but all I use anymore are compression fittings.

 

[Blanco]

The best advice I can give on the block style is to not use push-in tubing fittings. They WILL leak eventually, and you'll have to take them all off to change just one. I've had the best luck with the all-plastic John Guest poly tube fittings from Kleen-Rite, but all I use anymore are compression fittings.

I agree. Its a pain if one goes bad. Because of this I use different size nipples on each bay and swivel push tube elbows for each bay.

 

[MEP001]

The swivel elbows help, but if one leaks you still have to take off all the ones above or below it to replace it. The straight ones don't leave room to get a socket on over it.