Would someone post a picture or tell me how you have your Cat pump setup. I would like to know which check valves to use, do you use brass Tees or brass manifold blocks to plumb everything in? Starting from scratch so I want to do it the best way and I know you veteran operators know the best setup. Thanks.
High Pressure Pump Setup
- Thread starter APW
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
I like to do it this way:
There are a lot of advantages to this layout: the water always takes the same path through the pump whether they have the trigger pulled or not, the manifold can be removed by undoing just two unions, everything is generally easy to service without undoing a bunch of fittings. I don't use a check valve on the soap/wax to the pump, I just plumb the solenoids in reverse and they act as a check valve, one less thing to go wrong.
There are a lot of advantages to this layout: the water always takes the same path through the pump whether they have the trigger pulled or not, the manifold can be removed by undoing just two unions, everything is generally easy to service without undoing a bunch of fittings. I don't use a check valve on the soap/wax to the pump, I just plumb the solenoids in reverse and they act as a check valve, one less thing to go wrong.
soonermajic
Well-known member
That looks a lil different than my "The Ultimate" pumpstand by GinSan! lol
fyi: there's a guy in Seminole ,Okla, named Warren Sexton. He makes his own pumpstands, & was a former aircraft engineer @ Tinker Air Force base for years. His pumpstand is on a SS tripod & he uses direct drive Emperor pumps. IMPRESSIVE & EASY to work on! Best part, to some, they are MUCH cheaper!
fyi: there's a guy in Seminole ,Okla, named Warren Sexton. He makes his own pumpstands, & was a former aircraft engineer @ Tinker Air Force base for years. His pumpstand is on a SS tripod & he uses direct drive Emperor pumps. IMPRESSIVE & EASY to work on! Best part, to some, they are MUCH cheaper!
MEP these brass crosses are rated at max of 1200 psi. Do you think I should go with this or do you recommend something different.I like to do it this way:
There are a lot of advantages to this layout: the water always takes the same path through the pump whether they have the trigger pulled or not, the manifold can be removed by undoing just two unions, everything is generally easy to service without undoing a bunch of fittings. I don't use a check valve on the soap/wax to the pump, I just plumb the solenoids in reverse and they act as a check valve, one less thing to go wrong.
https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-730-barstock-fittings-pipe-cross-38.aspx
MEP001
Well-known member
I've never seen a brass fitting like these fail just from pressure, and I've seen them used at 3500 PSI. They mostly fail from erosion over time, or harsh chemicals, and it's just a leak and not a catastrophic burst.
Im also interested in pics of some proven setups. I am about ready to replace my pumps and figured it would be a good time to upgrade some of the old plumbing.
Also I have noticed some of the direct drive CAT pumps have a manifold with the unloader/regulator valve built right into it, but the belt driven pumps usually have external plumbing, seems to me the integrated unloader would be the way to go, less chance of leaks anyway.
Also I have noticed some of the direct drive CAT pumps have a manifold with the unloader/regulator valve built right into it, but the belt driven pumps usually have external plumbing, seems to me the integrated unloader would be the way to go, less chance of leaks anyway.
tdlconceptsllc
Well-known member
The direct drive setup typically doesn’t last as long in hard use car washes due to heat transfer from electric motor to pump it’s a cheaper setup. The benefits of belt drive is everything is separate and runs cooler no heat transfer, accessories last longer because isolated from vibration & heat more expensive but more robust. This applies to pressure washers also.
