Rudy
Active member
Is there any adjustment on the motor brake? My ACW IV now shows a Hopper Coasting Error....and I was wondering if my only option was to replace the motor.......?
Hopper Coasting Error
- Thread starter Rudy
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
Check the plastic hook on the bottom to see if the finger on the end that stops the motor is broken off. Make sure the metal part that is pulled to the motor to let it turn isn't sticking or that something is caught under the hopper and keeping it unlocked. There is no adjustment for the brake, and if it's broken you'll have to replace the motor (Hamilton doesn't sell just the brake arm) or try to find a used one.
Rudy
Active member
It turns out that the spring that connects to the locking cam...was slightly stretched. Not to bad for being in service for 22 years! Anyway, I was able to tighten the spring a little bit....and now things work perfectly. The weak spring was not allowing the locking arm to return to the locked position.
Rudy,
A weak or broken spring will raise all kinds of issues with the Hopper. There is an adjustment to the brake arm. You want the white plastic arm to be just above the white cog on the armature when you push the brake arm up. To adjust the brake arm bend it up slightly on the end with dime size washer, this will shorten the travel. Never use any lubricates on the brake arm, it’s meant to be dry and loose. A few times I’ve replaced the payout for a Hopper Coasting Error. It can also be the motor itself. If your Hopper is 22 years old I’d think about getting spare motor and payout switch, you’re on borrowed time. The part number of the Motor is 11-0096B, the Payout switch 100-0151 and the metal Brake arm is 11-0035, if you need a Brake arm I’ve got few off of used motors.
A weak or broken spring will raise all kinds of issues with the Hopper. There is an adjustment to the brake arm. You want the white plastic arm to be just above the white cog on the armature when you push the brake arm up. To adjust the brake arm bend it up slightly on the end with dime size washer, this will shorten the travel. Never use any lubricates on the brake arm, it’s meant to be dry and loose. A few times I’ve replaced the payout for a Hopper Coasting Error. It can also be the motor itself. If your Hopper is 22 years old I’d think about getting spare motor and payout switch, you’re on borrowed time. The part number of the Motor is 11-0096B, the Payout switch 100-0151 and the metal Brake arm is 11-0035, if you need a Brake arm I’ve got few off of used motors.
Ontario Car Wash
Member
Turn off the power and remove the Hopper. Take the cover off the Hopper, remove the baffle and inspect the switch for any debris, dirt, lint etc. If the area around the switch is clean and free of any debris replace the switch. How long do you think that switch has been installed?
Ontario Car Wash
Member
Thanks Randy that's what I figured switch been there alooooong time. Probably 20+ years.
MEP001
Well-known member
Did you check the brake? That's what causes the coasting, not the switch.
If the Hopper is 20 plus years old, I’d start by replacing the Payout switch. We had one in here recently that would go into a “coasting error” if you barely touched it. It might not be a bad idea to also look at the Hopper bowl for any excessive wear at the bottom, they get a groove worn into the bottom of the bowl. We use don’t use the old style #11-0008 payout switch anymore, we only use the new style #100-0151 switch now, you have to be very careful if you use this switch as it wires up differently than the old switch, if you wire it up like the old style switch you’ll damage the controller. The directions that come with the switch are pretty self-explanatory. The brake on the back of the motor should be loose and move freely.
Rudy
Active member
Two weeks ago....got an "unexpected coin drop" error on an ACW hopper. Checked the switch (old style)...looked clean....double checked the 1/8" adjustment....put back into service, and it worked well until yesterday. We got a "hopper coasting" error.
Per this forum thread....installed a new payout switch (new style).
I tested the payout in my RNS....and the payout was almost double.
A call to Hamilton, and they say, "The new style switch is not adjustable".
Interpretation: You're on you own.....
The fix?
The tang that extends into the bottom of the bowel....needs to be "slightly" bent. Bend it so that the microswitches "click" slightly sooner.
Payout is now normal.
The new style switches do not come set correctly. Just sayin.
Per this forum thread....installed a new payout switch (new style).
I tested the payout in my RNS....and the payout was almost double.
A call to Hamilton, and they say, "The new style switch is not adjustable".
Interpretation: You're on you own.....
The fix?
The tang that extends into the bottom of the bowel....needs to be "slightly" bent. Bend it so that the microswitches "click" slightly sooner.
Payout is now normal.
The new style switches do not come set correctly. Just sayin.
MEP001
Well-known member
Not only do they usually need some adjustment, four out of the twelve new ones I've gotten were defective. When they're bad, I can hold the switch between the click point and it will make my ohm meter gurgle. On the plus side, you can get the replacement switches for almost nothing (It requires two in the new style, but you can replace only the defective one):
www.digikey.com
V7-5F17D8 Honeywell Sensing and Productivity Solutions | Switches | DigiKey Marketplace
Order today, ships today. V7-5F17D8 – Switch SPDT Chassis Mount from Honeywell Sensing and Productivity Solutions. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
Rudy
Active member
I have it from an unnamed source....that the Cherry Micro Switch D41X is a better replacement. Sturdier and more robust.
MEP001
Well-known member
I decoded the Honeywell part number, the Cherry equivalent should be D42LQ1AA. I can't find it anywhere, so it would be a special order. If anyone wants to confirm my research:
