How much pressure when buffing?

[tw1012]

I am just learning how to detail.

I am using a harbor freight 50$ Boston tools polisher along with 3m's 3 step process (white black then blue). Is this a good combination? How much pressure should I apply for each step? Is there a different buffer that I should be using?

 

[Waxman]

There should be a certain amount of 'pad crush' visible when buffing, as well as change in pitch of the electric motor on the buffer.

I'd start here to learn more.

http://detailinprogress.com/contact.htm

 

[rph9168]

I used to tell people to only apply as much pressure as you can from the wrist down. Let the buffer and the product work for you.

 

[Merkel]

Focus on amount of pressure being exerted and speed and everything else will come together. You dont want half moons

 

[smokun]

Consider This...

I agree with Ron... but with this additional suggestion: Buffing should be uniformly consistent in pad pressure, RPM speed and contact-time. The downward weight of the buffer plus the needed pressure to keep the pad consistently flat with the surface should be an easy guideline. Consistent speed combined with surface-contact time will deliver uniform buffing.

Instead of using the Harbor Freight tool, I recommend beginner detailers consider trying a Flex 3401 dual-action polisher. It will give you similar performance without the cumbersome drawbacks of a rotary buffer such as greater potential of swirls, rapid heat build-up, and product splatter. The orbital action of the Flex will make it considerably easier to get optimum results from your products... and offer greater potential for a top-notch finish that will do you proud.

There are many other buffing tips available at numerous websites and you-tube. Read them all and overlay the info to garner the best tips. If you decide to but a Flex, have the seller show you how to best handle the buffer... and keep in mind that it tracks in reverse rotation (counter-clockwise) compared to the clockwise rotary buffer action. It is a very forgiving tool that is gradually replacing the rotary in all but the most severe buffing tasks.

Good Luck!

 

[rph9168]

Definitely agree with Steve's additions. With a high speed you have to keep the pad flat. Only experienced detailers should buff with the edge of the pad. I also highly recommend the Flex since it is everything Steve mentioned. The only drawback I have experienced that is does not seem to the best job of buffing out scratches after sanding and using heavier compounds. Since those usually require more skill than what is normally required for a detail it is really not that much of a drawback.

 

[smokun]

Flex 3401 Removes Scratches, Too!

Meguiar's microfiber cutting & finishing pad system is great for removing scratches and blemishes with the Flex 3401 simply because it is not a traditional orbital buffer. It has more power and torque needed to remove even sanding scratches without the risk of swirls or holograms. It's even a much better investment than the upgraded orbital buffer that Meguiar's sells.

Even though you've invested sixty bucks in the Harbor Freight tool, it makes all the sense in the world to upgrade to Flex, if for no other reason than to avoid damage risks and cut down on your production time. Screw up one paint finish and you're at risk of refinishing costs and compromising your reputation... just because you didn't choose the right tool. If you're serious about detailing, step up. You won't regret it.

 

[Waxman]

I was getting a bad feeling inside every time I scheduled or performed a buff job (snap on rotary buffer).

Then I switched to the Flex. It has brought the joy back into my detailing life. Now I am turning out the results I like and want with no swirls.

I still feel like I can use the rotary for tasks like headlight polishing and removing wetsand scratches, etc. but for a full buff job the Flex is the way to go.

Soon every reputable detailer will use this or similar.

Torquey motor, variable speed dial and at the trigger, trigger lock. This tool has it all.

I just use 3M Super Duty Compound (waffle cut pad)followed by Pro #1 polish(waffle polish pad) and the results are amazing.

 

[ToFarGone]

Nobody uses or likes the Porter Cable? I learned on a rotary but this little bugger is a dream. Guess I need to get my hands on a Flex.

 

[pcb]

The new Porter Cable is much stronger than the old ones, but no where near the Flex 3401. The Porter Cable with Meguiars micro fiber pad system does a great job if you don't want to spend alot of time but get a great result.

 

[Waxman]

Just buffed a black Jetta covered with sap stains. Beautiful result with the Flex. Going up on buffing prices, as I am the only one in my area offering swirl free buffing.

 

[Pro-Techt]

I am just learning how to detail.

I am using a harbor freight 50$ Boston tools polisher along with 3m's 3 step process (white black then blue). Is this a good combination? How much pressure should I apply for each step? Is there a different buffer that I should be using?

I'd ditch what you have and step up to a better way...

3M's "system" along with rotary polishes are soon to be a thing of the past and is intended for body shops. Most high end Detailers use a Dual Action polisher along with specialized polishing compounds that will quicky & effectively level defects all while producing incredible amounts of gloss with no potential for buffer swirls. These new(er) systems have a very easy learning curve which means that even beginners can produce pro-like results with just a little practice.

DA machine choice is based on personal preference, but keep in mind that a more powerful machine doesn't equate to better or faster results. What it can and will possibly do is create more stress on your buffing pads thus causing them to prematurely fail. The FLEX DA is a well built machine, but I personally don't care for the way it rotates/spins the opposite way all other machines do. Just a bit awkward *for me* as well as many others based on my observations from online commentary.

 

[Waxman]

The Flex spins opposite of what I was used to but after 10 or so buff jobs I've gotten to like it.

I am buffing cars faster and better than ever and with no hologram swirls. I used to dread buffing certain vehicles but no more; my love of buffing has returned and is greater now than it ever was. I am doing a much better job at it with this new tool.

 

[Pro-Techt]

That's the beauty of a dual action buffer....it's virtually impossible to leave "halogram swirls" behind. Every car wash that does detailing should have one!