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How to access membrane on JC Super Saver

slash007

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I need to replace the membranes on my Super Saver, but can't figure out how to access them. I didn't want to break anything, so figured I would ask here first. On the the membrane housing, do one or both ends screw off, twist off, or come off some other way? I took the whole housing off of the machine to make it easier, but still can't get the end/ends off. Thanks.
 

MEP001

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I've never seen that type of housing before, but my guess would be that it unscrews.
 

toddmullens

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Sorry I posted before finished typing. You can plug the holes and attach a garden hose using the appropriate adapters and slowly turn on water to pop off one of the ends.
 

slash007

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Sorry I posted before finished typing. You can plug the holes and attach a garden hose using the appropriate adapters and slowly turn on water to pop off one of the ends.
There were two thick black clamps on each end that I took off before taking that picture. Is that what holds them on? I could have sworn that they were screwed in, but was afraid to try too hard. Any other method I can try other than the garden hose? I don't mind, just have to buy plugs and an adapter, so if there is another way, I would like to try it first. Thanks!
 

toddmullens

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The clamps hold on the end cap when pressure is applied. The endcaps also have orings that makes them harder to remove. You can pry the end caps off with a screwdriver. They are fairly strong and I haven't broke any yet by prying but that's not to say it will not happen. Once the vacuum seal is broken between the vessel body and the orings on the endcaps, they should come out easier.
 

MEP001

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Right, I didn't realize there were clamps that had been removed. The caps are definitely hard to remove - I usually do it the dumbest, most dangerous way, which is to pulse the unit on until it pops out. Now that it's out of the system you'll probably need help or a 6 1/2" vise and some really big channel locks to turn and pull at the same time.
 

slash007

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Got them popped off using a board as leverage since the had a lip. Once I was sure that they just popped off, it was easy to put more force. Was afraid of breaking them at first. Thanks for all of the help.
 

slash007

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View attachment 972 Now that I have the membranes replaced, I am ready to try and make SF water. I turned the unit on briefly to see what happens and it seemed to run, but I didn't like the look of the gauges. It also stopped after about 1 minute as the pressure seemed to build up, so I shut everything down as I want to understand how it works and make sure that I am adjusting it properly. Here is a picture of the flow meters on the front. This picture is from my other wash, and I took it while SF was producing. My new setup is the same unit, but the left flow meter was at 5 when running, the middle one was up there as well, and the reject was down around 1 I think. Being a used unit, I have no idea what they had it setup for. What should I look for when turning it on, and what settings should I shoot for? Do I adjust the regulator while it's running? Any setup advice is appreciated.
 

MEP001

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The reject should never be lower than the product - that's what will foul the membrane fast. I don't know the Coleman unit enough to know if one of those gauges is for how much is recirculated or if any of it is, but if it doesn't recirculate at all then the reject should be at least twice the product.

Is this is the one that had two membranes and you removed one?
 

slash007

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That picture is from my wash that is already setup. My other wash has the same unit and setup though. I ended up leaving both membranes on, so it is still setup the same way it came.
 

slash007

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View attachment 976 I finally got all of the leaks fixed on the SFR system and had time to mess with it, but I can't get SF water to make. TDS at the holding tank was 192! TDS right after the small filter where it comes into the SFR system is actually lower, at 152 so no idea what's going on. I tried to adjust the regulator while is was making SF water, but no matter which way I turned it, nothing changed on the gauges. The manual says that it is factory set and shouldn't have to be messed with, but since it was a used unit, I figured maybe it was moved. I turned the knob 7 turns in each direction with no effect on the product or reject lever in the flow meter. What should I do next, and what could cause the TDS to stay high if the membranes are new? Is it possible they were installed backward?
 
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