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Husky vs Harbor Freight small compressor comparison

mjwalsh

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I love my Quincy QT compressor. Very Quiet, but it was 2k.
I see the single phase 2 stage 175 psi Quincy QT-54 is only 80 decibels. It says 24 amp but suggests or actually requires a 50 amp breaker? The 3 phase??? version would tend to make for no initial amp surge so the 3 phase breaker probably could be 20 amp ... just thinking out loud.

 
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soapy

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Single phase will produce around 110 psi as I recall. 2 and 3 stage will increase psi but is really not needed for a car wash. It is not how much you spend it is how often you spend it is how I look at compressors.
 

MEP001

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2-stage is more efficient, more CFM output for the same energy input. Single-stage units make less and less CFM as they approach their shutoff pressure while 2-stage maintain the same CFM. The only advantage to a higher shutoff PSI is that there's more storage for high volume use tools, and a higher recovery rate with 2-stage. 3-phase makes the compressor cheaper both to purchase and maintain - 3-phase motors are cheaper and the control relay doesn't have to be as heavy. I've never looked into whether it's more efficient to run 3-phase or single-phase on a large motor.

Curtis makes good units - I've seen lots of them in use. I like that they use a real off-the-shelf motor instead of a POS Chinese made one that doesn't even list a frame size.
 

Greg Pack

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I see the single phase 2 stage 175 psi Quincy QT-54 is only 80 decibels. It says 24 amp but suggests or actually requires a 50 amp breaker? The 3 phase??? version would tend to make for no initial amp surge so the 3 phase breaker probably could be 20 amp ... just thinking out loud.


Mike I also have that one at another wash. Its also a very good compressor, but the QT5 is more substantial and seems more quiet.
 
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I have the same Harbor Freight compressor in the original post. It has had 2 issues so far (About 2 1/2 years old). The pressure switch will not cut off the compressor intermittently and it will pop off the relief valve causing it to run continuously until discovered by me. I know the thing has run for at least 24 hours non stop on a few occasions. It doesn't miss a beat. It is a tough little compressor for sure. The other thing is that I have had to tighten the belt a couple of times now. I'm sure the belt is stretching out and needs replaced soon. Just a maintenance item, but tightening the belt is a real pain in the ass. There is no good way to put tension on the motor in order to do so. Other than that, I haven't done a thing to it but run the piss out of it. The hour meter is hard to see because of the way it is installed but the last time I looked, which was a while ago, it was around 900 hours. I think it was a decent investment.
 

MEP001

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The HF unit I installed six months ago has passed 1000 hours and still runs perfect, haven't even tightened the belt.

Most compressors don't have a way to tension the belt, so without a pulley spreader tool it's very difficult. I usually end up positioning the motor and forcing the belt over the pulleys - sometimes it takes several tries to get the tension right.
 

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I would recommend a KTH screw compressor with a VFD Drive. A lot of car washes are buying the 20Hp that is 71 cfm but if your using a piston compressor now you could get away if using a 10Hp that is 35 cfm. There only $5000. The benefit is you will get air much quicker. A lot less noise and the money you will save on electric over time it will pay for it's self. They are built right here in Maryland and a lot of car washes in MD,NJ,PA are switching over to them.
They are priced right.
The problem with piston compressors is they have a hard start relay that puts a spike on your electric and the only person that benefits is the electric company.
 

Randy

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$5000 is a little much for a air compresor for your average 5 and 1 car wash. I've had the same piston air compressor since 1994 it's still running strong.
 

mjwalsh

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No matter what kind of air compressor (screw or piston), I am thinking that those of us with oodles & oodles of tubing & fittings ... we need to pay attention to even small hard to find leaks. We have always had our air compressors on time clocks (including any backup) during most of our daily closed portion of our hours.

That helps to mitigate against those pesky leaks that develop. Swiveling connections seem to be the worst offenders! A previous tip on this forum mentioned that more balls in better "albeit more expensive" air quick disconnects help. On our air cylinders that our machine shop friend set us up with for locking & unlocking our overhead doors ... we are thankful that their 4 port SMC valves that we can manually put in the middle neutral position during a leak problem on either side of the air valve.

The thought of the rotary screw compressor needing to run constantly makes me very cautious about going that route! The thought of a compressor with a VFD DRIVE & INVERTER DUTY MOTOR varying the RPM as needed is very tempting ... I do admit though!
 
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KTH

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I can see where your coming from on the up front cost but if your running a 10 to 15 hp piston compressor and lets say it kicks on and off 20 to 30 times a day that is a lot of money your losing everyday compared to running a screw compressor with a vfd drive.
The big reason people switch over to vfd drive screw compressors is because normally after 5 yrs it's paid for it's self and then it's paying you in the savings on your electric. with a piston you will always pay more in electric.

I hope this info helps someone out. We are just seeing a lot of car washes switch over so I'm just passing the info along.
 

KTH

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KTH screw compressors with the vfd drive do not run constantly. They only kick on when air is needed and shut down when there is no demand. Only the cheap compressors run all the time
 

mjwalsh

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I can see where your coming from on the up front cost but if your running a 10 to 15 hp piston compressor and lets say it kicks on and off 20 to 30 times a day
Correct me if I am wrong ... but I am thinking that most of us run 7.5 HP & probably less than that. We have an 18+ year old Ingersoll Rand 2 stage piston 5 HP at our place as our main compressor. It uses a 60 Gallon tank which helps conserves ER space.
 

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I would say in the past year we have sold over a hundred compressors to car washes and they were 10 Hp @ 35 cfm or 20 Hp @71 cfm
10 Hp is the smallest we sell and we have one of the best products on the market. We have never sold a car wash a compressor bigger then a 20 Hp
 

mjwalsh

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KTH screw compressors with the vfd drive do not run constantly. They only kick on when air is needed and shut down when there is no demand. Only the cheap compressors run all the time
I am thinking that without a tank a tiny leak would cause continuous run ... albeit quieter & at lower amps-wattage.
 

KTH

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With screw compressors you would still need a tank but you can use the old compressor as the tank and just pipe into the side of your old compressor
 

MEP001

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My compressor's switch started leaking so bad it would never shut off (Of course, on a Friday) so I bought one of these:


It's more than I wanted to spend, but it's nice, super smooth and quiet, and it's two stage. The CFM is a lot less at 3.9 than the Husky or the Harbor Freight but it has no trouble keeping up with my busy 6-bay SS. I'm going to tuck it in a corner or put it on a shelf and just tee it in as a backup.

The Harbor Freight compressor has 1800 hours and is still running strong and flawlessly other than replacing the belt.
 

MEP001

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MEP001

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Update: Motor on the Harbor Freight compressor burned up, just shy of 2000 hours. Unlike most compressors, it has a motor with a known brand name (Marathon Electric). Cost of a new motor of the same brand is about $50 less than a new compressor.
 
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