IBA door problems

[Reds]

This is my 4th winter in the carwash biz. I started with 1 IBA and added another in Jan08. This winter I am having constant door problems (ultimate doors - air operators with belts) during bitter cold weather. Sometimes they freeze to the ground. But most often they are very slow. Or I have to give them a little bump with my foot to get them moving. Sometimes they are sticking so bad that they jump a tooth or two on the belt. I am also getting an ice buildup on the outside of my doors that i don't remember getting before (?" thick on entire top 2 door panels). It has gotten to the point where I am closing at night for the first time ever, and we have had this kind of weather before. I just ordered an air dryer for my compressor. I have to drain the water daily from the bulbs on my air regulators so I am hoping the air dryer will help. I suspect the buildup on the doors is from the undercarriage wash. People zoom in there and the UC keeps spraying after they are past (set to shut off 5 sec. after rear tire passes eye). I suspect the problem is partially water in my compressed air, and some is just damn cold weather. Anybody have any suggestions as to how to deal with, or what to look for, to fix this issue?

 

[Waxman]

My entry door to my IBA is currently dead. I am going to fix it, but the problems will persist I'm sure. My operator is a standard Raynor trolley style with a chain; mounted overhead and pulls from the center. I waterproofed the operator best I could, but same problem as you; underbody mist gets in still!

Original installer suggested a 'nema 4 ' operator.....$2000. This is supposed to be 'bulletproof' and 'submersible'.

Found a new door guy; local builder who needs work and also 'does doors' . He installed doors on my new detail shop. He suggested a 'jackshaft' style operator. Mounts on the wall beside the door. Still uses a chain. I think this style would a.) be easier to waterproof being mounted on the wall and b.)get less underbody spray than the overhead mount.

Maybe you should consider a non-air lift style operator?

Regardless, door operators can be a problem for cold-climate carwashes. I feel your pain!

 

[MEP001]

Can you reduce the length of time the undercarriage sprays after they're past it? Ours was set at 5 seconds and would really wet the lights right above it, so I turned it all the way to zero. The people that pull in at the proper speed, about 1 mph, get the full effect. The ones that either zip through or stop on top of it aren't getting it right anyway, so I figure why set myself up for more work to accomodate them.

 

[Waxman]

Plus you're saving $ on water, sewer and electricity. I'll look into this, too, set the delay to 0 if possible.

 

[Reds]

I have a lot of people who zip thru the UC, but a lot of regulars, mostly pickup trucks, who like to crawl thru it, see saw back and forth, and complain about it shuting off too quick. I am considering mounting the eyes 2' high on the wall right where the UC bar is located, and then setting the delay at zero. The idea being to turn it on when the vehicle is over the UC bar, and off when it moves ahead of the bar. But I believe the eye has to be tripped twice. I am going to test it today using my foot to trip it and see if it will work without a "back wheel" to trip it again. (does that make sense?). I am also considering some heat tape on the air cylinders, perhaps on a timer or tstat or some combination of the two. I will also play with turning the delay down close to zero. I suspect the ice on the doors is adding weight and causing some of the problem. Also, when it's bitter out I think the top of the door being wet causes it to freeze to the header. When I kick the door lightly that little bit of movement breaks it free because it's not froze hard. I'm grabbing at straws and trying anything I can. One other thing - when it's zero degrees outside and cars are lined up 4 deep all day the doors work fine. But when they sit still for a little while they start to stick.

 

[Dirt]

Maby you can try to rotate your undercar wash a few degrees away from your doors, toward the center of the bay.
Also, if you have the belt drive operators, then you probably have the counter weight system. Make sure you have enough weights on there.
If the operator was disconnected, you should be able to lift the door with 1 hand.

 

[Waxman]

Need a Pic/Call about Ratheon Heat Cable install!

Bought the heat cable. Putting ends on. Have an idea about install on door tracks but need advice.

Anyone have a picture of their setup w/heat cable install?

You could pm or call or email,. I would buy you a drink in Vegas!

 

[ted mcmeekin]

We have different set up--commercial door with electric operators inside equip room. We still had problems with track freezing to door overnight. Some one on the forum in Ohio told us about attaching heat tape directly to track with high temp rtv. I was skeptical at first but we went ahead with flat heat tape from Dultmier and hi temp Rtv. That was three years ago and it has worked great--we just flip it on when we have really cold days. We just put it 42 inches up track from bottom but track conducts heat--I was surprised how warm it stays.

Ted

Ted

 

[ProCarWashes]

I installed rubber speed bumps just in front of the doors outside. This slows down the runners. I also am able to get their lic plate numbers. As for the slow doors and freezing, the air dryer will help a lot. I also have drip oilers on the air line. As for freezing, Do you have floor heat? If not then you will need to put down an ice melt. I use calcium chloride. Melt to -23 degrees. Don't use a lot just enough to keep doors from freezing to the floor. Doesn't take but just a tiny bit of ice to keep a door from operating. As for the water on the track. The horizontal track I drill drain holes in the track. As for the vertical track, heat tape will winterize it. I take pride in being able to operate down to whatever temperature I want. But I don't usually go below zero. I enjoy being open when everone else is closed. People remember this!

 

[soapy]

If your doors are getting ice on them it is changing the weight of the door so your operator is having to work much harder to lift the door. I have radiant heaters in all the auto bays and that helps alot.
For the door freezing to the floor you have a few choices. 1. they make a rubber strip that you can put heat cables in to put on the floor directly under the door so that it always heats that area to prevent freezing. 2. You can put a layer of salt, chloride or similar product under the door to prevent ice from forming and freezing the door down. 3. set the door to stay up a couple of inches off the floor.

 

[Waxman]

I installed the heat cables you suggested this morning.

my problem was the tracks icing and pushing the wheels all over the place and jamming the door but GOOD.