Idea's on changing LP wax to HP...

[Twodose]

Any ideas on converting LP wax system to a High Pressure system?

Originally Red Rhino Wax was used on the system but I could never get it to come out right, one or two bays would always spit and sputter and the wax would not apply evenly to the vehicle, I tried to increasing the concentration of the wax so it would foam more, it still didn?t work right, so I changed all the solenoids, the check valves in the trough, ran 3/8? lines to the bays, put plastic check valves on the lines, changed the liquid and air regulators, still no success, I tried using the blue triple foam polish wax from kleen-rite using a yellow 90:1 ratio tip in the hydrominder, it comes out nice blue color, bubble gum scent but it doesn?t make the water bead up nice, in fact there is hardly any water beading.

I am tired of messing with this system as both myself and my customers are not happy with it.

I believe the only way to do it would be to add 3 solenoids inside the panel box where the soap solenoid it mounted ( on D/H equipment the solenoids are mounted inside the panel box above the pump with all the electronics, wires, motor contactor, etc) and run lines to the inlet side of the HP pump. Tee off under the LP tank and run separate liquid lines to each solenoid, Jump the rotary switch to kick on the hp pump when wax is selected .

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gabriel]

What pumps are you using and on what brand equipment. This is doable with low pressure if you get the right pump configuration. Everyone will need more information on what you are using now. I think!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Twodose]

All equipment is Dilling-Harris.

The HP pumps are cat 530's.

The LP pumps are Goulds G&L, 1x 1 1/4 - 6 , 1st1c1c3, Imp dia 5 3/16.

The flow of the pumps is not the problem, I can get 50 psi going to the bays.

 

[MEP001]

It would be a very simple conversion. As you said, add a jumper to the current low-pressure wax position that will turn on the high-pressure pump. Add a solenoid to each bay, wire that solenoid to the existing low-pressure wax feature. Run hose or tubing from the tank to the solenoid to the pump.

Dilling-Harris equipment doesn't always have a check valve to protect water from backflowing through the soap/wax solenoids. Instead, they just plumb the solenoids backwards. There's enough spring pressure to stop the soap and wax, and the solenoid acts to stop any backflow from the rinse. If there's no check valve already in place, you'll either have to add one or connect the new solenoid with the inlet and outlet backwards.

 

[Twodose]

Dilling-Harris equipment doesn't always have a check valve to protect water from backflowing through the soap/wax solenoids. Instead, they just plumb the solenoids backwards. There's enough spring pressure to stop the soap and wax, and the solenoid acts to stop any backflow from the rinse. If there's no check valve already in place, you'll either have to add one or connect the new solenoid with the inlet and outlet backwards.

Thats interesting, leave it to d/h to find a way to make something on the cheap.
I would put a single check on the tank and then tee off from that.

Know anywhere to purchase that type of panel mounted ss solenoids 1/4, besides D/H?

 

[bigleo48]

BTW...wax typically doesn't foam. 3x Foam Polish also will not bead (as you have discovered). "spit and sputter " usually means air is getting into the system.

I have both a high pressure wax (drying agent) and a low pressure Clear Coat Protectant. I don't typically have a problem with either.

Big Leo

 

[MEP001]

Thats interesting, leave it to d/h to find a way to make something on the cheap.

I liked the idea, in fact I started having a lot of check valve failures in a short time, so I swapped the tubing on all the soap and wax solenoids. As the rest of the check valves failed and stuck closed, I just removed them. It's much more reliable.

Do you mean the block-style solenoids? I'd much rather use something like individual Kip solenoids, which will hold up better.

 

[Gabriel]

On our equipment spit and sputter almost always translates into an air leak. Leaky valves, leaky connects, leaky checks, line or some air seepage into the system.

 

[MEP001]

On our equipment spit and sputter almost always translates into an air leak. Leaky valves, leaky connects, leaky checks, line or some air seepage into the system.

Spit and sputter on a low-pressure application is caused by the chemical's inability to foam.

 

[Gabriel]

We have never changed chemicals, but have changed a lot of air operated valves. I suppose you get different problems with different equipment.

 

[Twodose]

It would be a very simple conversion. As you said, add a jumper to the current low-pressure wax position that will turn on the high-pressure pump. Add a solenoid to each bay, wire that solenoid to the existing low-pressure wax feature. Run hose or tubing from the tank to the solenoid to the pump.

Dilling-Harris equipment doesn't always have a check valve to protect water from backflowing through the soap/wax solenoids. Instead, they just plumb the solenoids backwards. There's enough spring pressure to stop the soap and wax, and the solenoid acts to stop any backflow from the rinse. If there's no check valve already in place, you'll either have to add one or connect the new solenoid with the inlet and outlet backwards.

This is from an old post I made. I am just getting around to converting the LP wax to HP wax. I put in the new solenoids, they are mounted next to the HP soap solenoids, made new manifolds on the suction side of the pump to add the wax hose to it, hooked the in and out lines in reverse so they would act as a cv.

Here is my question, I didn't give much thought about the LP tank for the wax being about 6" lower than the tank that supplies the hot water and HP soap, I am wondering now if it may be to low and not supply enough pressure (since it is gravity feed) so the wax makes it to the bays, the LP tanks including the one I am converting is the same height as the stands that the HP pumps are mounted on, although when the tank is full with the wax solution it is probably 8 to 10" higher then the pump. I also tried turning the HP soap on and took the HP wax hose of the manifold and held my finger over the inlet and it does have some suction since it makes the pump chatter when removing finger, but I wonder if this will be enough to draw the solution to the HP pump?

 

[MEP001]

It shouldn't be an issue. It doesn't require any actual pressure to get soap or wax to the pump.