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In line check valves

C

Creekviewautowash

New member
I have an in line check valve for my foaming wax. Unfortunately it does not hold and I'm losing about 10 gal in chemical a night unless I turn the valve off.

The check valve that was on there was a VNR-1 made in Italy.

The rest of the information is as follows 450 bar, 45 f / min, 90 degrees C

I've already talked to two different vendors and they have both given me check valves but niether one worked. I seemed like the spring didn't have enough resistance.

The pump the line is attached to is a Flo-Jet rated at 20 to 90 psi.

I'm still learning :o so I could use all the help I can get.:)

Creekview auto wash
 
Why and where exactly is it losing chemical? It sounds like a solenoid problem and not a check valve. Check valves are supposed to stop flow going the wrong way, not prevent flow when a piece of equipment is not in use.
 
That's some check valve there. A "bar" is roughly 15 psi or 6,750 psi, and 90 Celcius is about 200 degrees Fahrenheit. My guess is that any common 2000 psi check valve will do. No need to order a special import. If the issue is chemical draining overnight, I would guess the issue is air bleeding to the FloJet pump, causing it to slowly pump overnight.
 
I'm losing chemical in the tunnel. The check valve is located between the Flo-jet and the arche that the chemical comes out of.

The small tank that the water and chemical get mixed in is higher than the lowest hole in the arch. It was explained to me that the check valve was suppose to stop that flow and was suppose to release after it reached a certain PSI. I know how much I'm losing because I place a 5 gal can on each side of the tunnel and they were both full by the morning.
 
You can try a different one with a high cracking pressure, but to insure nothing flows when you don't want it to you need a solenoid and not a check valve. Use what is meant to serve the purpose, not something that kinda sorta works.
 
Go with what MEP suggests, or simply lower the mixing tank. For many low pressure applications, especially a wax application, consider the solenoid valves sold in Home Depot for lawn sprinklers. They are all plastic with a 24 vac coil, and cost under $15.
 
I'm really learning how all of these thing go together. Right now the only solenoid valve is located before the mixing tank and the pump, there is nothing but hose between the pump and the arch.

I'm not sure if I can lower the tank, I'll have to take a look at it.

Mac the solenoids that you mentioned from Home Depot, can they be used to replace any other solenoids that are going bad?

Thanks a lot for your help Mep and Mac.
 
Lawn sprinkler solenoids are good for high-volume water applications. They were not designed to withstand chemicals of any sort and shouldn't be used for wax.

I would assume by your description that the only solenoid on that system feeds air to the FloJet pump. That doesn't in any way prevent water from siphoning from the tank to the arch. You could install a siphon breaker between the pump and the arch instead of a solenoid - it will still waste some chemical but it won't run overnight.
 
While the lawn sprinkler solenoids were not designed for chemicals, they would probab;ly work for the wax, since this would be a wax solution. If the wax has alcohol in it, thesolenoid diaphram will stiffen with use, but even then you might get a year or so use from it. When you use them they usually have just two wires coming off the coil. When wiring it, I dip the wire nuts in liquid electrical tape.
 
I want to thank everyone that answered me. The simple fix was to put a loop in the hose. The idea came from a guy that was working construction next door. A pretty easy and inexpensive fix.

Thanks again,

Juan
 
Holy cow batman. Here I am dispensing my wisdome, and I learned this idea from a construction worker next door. I can't seem to understand why putting a loop in the line would cause the siphoning to stop, but if it works, all the better. Juan, you helped us a little here.
 
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