In need of wiring diagram
- Thread starter kye
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
I don't have a diagram, but I've worked on them enough that if you tell me what you're trying to do I can probably tell you how to do it off the top of my head, and I have access to one to study if I need to.
it’s for the electrician so I need a diagram or he will charge to get one
basically something keeps blowing the contact and he has never worked on one before
MEP001
Well-known member
You definitely don't need an electrician for this.
The light on the door that you lift up should be showing "Motor tripped." If you're resetting it and it keeps tripping, it's possible either the motor starter is failing or the motor is overheating. First, make sure your pressure isn't too high. I see way too often that the pump isn't making enough pressure so someone goes in and cranks the regulator way up trying to make it higher, but then when the trigger in the bay is released the pressure shoots way up. If you're sure this isn't the problem, get a clamp-on amp meter and test the amperage to the motor. At 480 volts it should only read about 4 amps. If one leg reads significantly higher than the others, the motor is probably failing. Also see if the motor is getting seriously hot, I've found them getting too hot to touch which indicates a failing motor.
I assume Dan Kamsickas, a forum member, can get you a manual/wiring diagram, but again I don't think you'll need it.
The light on the door that you lift up should be showing "Motor tripped." If you're resetting it and it keeps tripping, it's possible either the motor starter is failing or the motor is overheating. First, make sure your pressure isn't too high. I see way too often that the pump isn't making enough pressure so someone goes in and cranks the regulator way up trying to make it higher, but then when the trigger in the bay is released the pressure shoots way up. If you're sure this isn't the problem, get a clamp-on amp meter and test the amperage to the motor. At 480 volts it should only read about 4 amps. If one leg reads significantly higher than the others, the motor is probably failing. Also see if the motor is getting seriously hot, I've found them getting too hot to touch which indicates a failing motor.
I assume Dan Kamsickas, a forum member, can get you a manual/wiring diagram, but again I don't think you'll need it.
I don’t really know much about this stuff and the owner is upgrading to a new pump stand soon I just need that diagram so we can get up and running.. the electrician had power to it and then we tried to put it on rinse barely anything came out and the contact blew going from soap to rinse he thinks
MEP001
Well-known member
It's a thermal overload that's tripping. My guess would be the motor is bad, you put it on rinse, the rinse solenoid opens and "barely anything came out," the motor hums without turning and trips the thermal overload. Or maybe the pump is locked up.
JGinther
Zip-tie engineer
You need a car wash tech, not an electrician. The contactor is tripping to make you aware of a problem before something bad happens. Chances are low that the problem has anything at all to do with the control wiring which is what the diagram will provide. Maybe a weak connection on control wiring might cause the contactor to flutter, which could cause that, but most likely, you have a motor, contactor, or pump issue and the overload is just doing its job turning itself off before the fan starts stinkin.
Our carwash tech don’t deal with them anymore they where discontinued
Dan kamsickas
GinSan Technician
1) Fire the electrician. If he's going to charge you to contact a manufacturer for a free wiring diagram because he can't troubleshoot a tripping overload he's both a crook and a moron.
2) MEP is correct. You most likely have an overload going bad or a motor drawing too many amps. MEP is also correct about someone cranking the pressure too high and overheating the motors.
FREE wiring diagram attached.
What? The only thing in that picture I see that is discontinued is the GS23 Hourmaster and we use a different brand of contactor/overload. We use a Class 2 transformer with built in circuit breaker now also. The timers are removed but I suspect the wash has been updated with display timers in the bay. The basic logic and control is still the same as we do today.
Not sure what that blue relay base and relay is for, however. I suspect there has been some "field engineering" done over the years. To be honest, I have had to have some tough conversations with customers with older equipment that has been modified over the years by "field engineers". The more modifications done the less help I am able and, quite frankly, willing to provide. The example I usually use is if you have an latemodel Ford F-150 that has multiple after market modifications your local Ford Dealer is going to want nothing to do with it.
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