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induction lighting...converting my Scottsdale lights

Mr. Clean

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Is the whole fixture being replaced or just the bulb? I'm not following the math here - 80W wallpack or surface is $200. and I didn't see where there was an 80w bulb option.
MC
 

MEP001

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BubblesGalore said:
I would assume that this would include less electrical usage correct? There isn't any point in me changing lights if there isn't any electrical savings.
You do have to check the power factor of a bulb/ballast combination to be sure you're going to save money. You check the wattage use of the entire setup, not just the bulb. The 80W conversion uses a total of 88 watts; a typical 175W metal halide fixture uses a total of 200 watts. So yes, there would be a significant savings.

Mr. Clean said:
Is the whole fixture being replaced or just the bulb? I'm not following the math here - 80W wallpack or surface is $200. and I didn't see where there was an 80w bulb option.
MC
On the inductionlamps.com site is a page with the conversion "circle" bulbs.
 

pitzerwm

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Some one that didn't read the rules about self promotion, has provided this info about induction lights, which might be helpful.

Induction lighting is the latest trend in lighting technology. Induction lamps are built to last and is cost efficient.

What is induction lighting? Well technically, it works when energy is transmitted through an electromagnetic field. Then a light emitting gas is energized within the bulb, which is induced through an inductor where alternating current is passed. Thus, an induction lamp lasts longer since electricity-conducting electrodes are not needed on the lamp.

In place of ballast, induction lamps uses a generator with a power coupler. An induction lamp has the capacity to save almost 40% in your electric bill against its fluorescent counterpart. Also, some types of induction lamps could have a life span of 100,000 hours. This makes them last 7 times longer than T12HO fluorescent and about 5-13 times longer than metal halide.

Induction lamps are ideal for use with high- ceiling applications in which the lamps are difficult to access. They could operate well in extremely low temperatures, as a conclusion, induction lighting could cater to a wide range of usage. It includes lighting up parking areas, roads, tunnels, gymnasiums, industrial buildings and could also be suitable for freezers and cold storage lighting.

Although induction lighting set-ups could be a little costly, you could still have higher savings since it needs only a little maintenance and has greater energy efficiency. Induction lighting has other advantages such as better colour rendition and better colour range shifting from daylight to soft white. Also, induction lamps are environment friendly since they use less mercury every hour of operation than traditional lighting due to their long life span. They also have instant-on and hot re-strike features, unlike traditional lamps that are used in industrial applications like sodium-vapor lamp, mercury-vapor lamp and metal halide lamp.

Investing on induction lighting that is suitable for your need could do you wonders.
 

TurboJet

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Induction lighting seems like the way to go. I have Scottsdales at my site. I think the ballasts are starting to go on a few of them. Rather than repairing them I'm thinking of giving the induction lighting conversion option a try.

What do I need to do to convert these Scottsdales over to induction lighting?

I looked at the inductionlamps.com website, but I'm not really clear on what I need to do/buy. Anyone actually converted any Scottsdales or know what's required?

Thx. Turbo.
 

soapy

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I agree with everything said about induction lighting. My only concern is something I read on the Lithonia lighting website. They make induction lights but did not recomend them for environments with chemicals and they specifically mentioned car washes. I do not think there would be any problem using them outside the bays or on vac islands.
 

pitzerwm

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IMO they are probably talking about a tunnel, where chemical "vapor" would be more concentrated. I can't imagine there would be an issue in SS bays, an IBA might be in the winter where you close the doors during the wash.

Call them up and figure it out.
 

MEP001

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I would think that anywhere water vapor was an issue that explosion-proof fixtures would be fine.

I looked at the conversion kits on one site and it looked like it would be very simple. The only bulb that would fit in the lens of a Scottsdale was the 80W, and it looks like it could mount from two of the screws that hold the reflector. The ballast would mount in the box above.
 

Greg Pack

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I've got a wash I'd like to try a couple, but they are standard 400 W wall packs and/or ceiling mount 2x2 fixtures. Someone mentioned a conversion kit of some sort but I can't find anything regarding conversion kits for these styles. What am I missing?
 

coincarwash.ca

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All you need is the bulb and the transformer...in my case I used a 120 volt transformer and an 80 watt bulb....I ripped the ballast out of the Scottsdale and connected the Black, white and Ground wires....Thats it...no kit required.
 

Ric

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All you need is the bulb and the transformer...in my case I used a 120 volt transformer and an 80 watt bulb....I ripped the ballast out of the Scottsdale and connected the Black, white and Ground wires....Thats it...no kit required.
Can you provide us with ordering info...part #'s etc.?
 

MEP001

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I like 4100K - it looks the most like incandescent light. Lower numbers (warmer colors) are best for getting the true color out of something, but it appears generally dimmer. Higher numbers give a poorer color rendering, and too high (like 6500K, which is like a low-quality mercury vapor) will almost irritate your eyes. It will look really bright if you look directly at the light, but it won't reflect well and won't give much indirect lighting.
 
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