Jobe Rojo and Topaz valve

[GoBuckeyes]

I have been using the high temperature Jobe Topaz Industro valve at two locations for a year now without incident. Nice valve. High flow with no water hammer when it shuts down.

In a couple of automatic holding tanks I am using Hydrominder 506 valves to simply fill with hot water. The water is 120 F. I would like to try the Jobe Rojo valve as a replacement but the specs say the max temp is 115 F, not even sure what hydrominders are rated for. Has anyone used either a Rojo or the regular Topaz with hot water successfully for any length of time? Thanks.

 

[jprb]

I had some trouble with the Jobe valves several years ago. I don't recall if it was hot or cold water. The valves would stick open and flood the equipment room. I'm using one of the Jobe differential valves on a cold water tank, now. I replaced a hydrominder valve because of high city water pressure (90 - 100 psi). The hydrominder would not open/close correctly with that much pressure (rated for 85 psi, I think). The jobe valve has worked fine for about 1.5 years now.

JPRB

 

[Sponge Bob]

I've been fighting water level problems in my hot water storage tank on SS's for years. I've tried them all from Bob's to Jobes. The Jobes seem to last longer than most and they are by far the easiest to repair or replace with their 1/4 turn quick change design. I have found what I believe to be a mineral deposit issue directly related to warm-hot water. even though I soften all in-coming water, I get a scale buildup in the tanks and in the valves. The valves don't appear to be degrading with the heat, but rather collecting a residue that causes the valve to drip or leak slowly. It used to be if I go ~24 hours w/o a customer consuming hot water in SS the tank would overflow. The Jobe valve is water pressure piloted and needs good pressure to seal in the closed position. I suffer from a pressure deficiency. Static city water pressure, with nothing running can be as low as 38 psi. I have a booster system that run on those busy days in the winter. That would prolong the life of the float, but only slightly. I compounded my problem last year when my boiler let go and I converted to tankless heaters (3 Rinnai 9.4 gpm units) On busy days I need all three to keep up with 4 hand bays. With three heaters running I found that I could short cycle and not get true hot water. So I converted to a Topaz Differential valve and my short cycling problem was resolved. But I found the differential style valve to be more susceptible to weeping. Someone posted recently that they converted to a NC solenoid valve triggered by a level sensor and their overfilling went away. in order to limit my short cycling I now use the differential Jobe with a solenoid valve in front to it. I tied the solenoid into my bay multiplexer and now when any bay is high or electrically activated, the solenoid opens to allow the Jobe to control. And in periods of no business the Jobe can't overflow.