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lag time when switching options in SS

A

audiosnow46

Member
Good morning all,

Let's say I put my $2.50 to start my wash, turn the knob to pre-soak. It takes about 30-45 seconds just to get to the hose. Both bays are next to control room. Then i switch to rinse it takes about that 30-45 sec to clear the lines... I went to a competitior in town to see how fast theres switched over and it was within 5 seconds... makes me sick thinking i am 9 times longer of a wait. Is there a special pump of something you use or i guess im unsure how it even really works. any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
My Low Pressure Functions are "T"d into the High Pressure line right above each bay using a manifold. Sounds like your's is "T"d at the pump? Having them above the bay shortens the amount of time it takes to get to the gun and also to clear the lines when switching to high pressure.
 
I'm with 2Biz, your's must be tee'd at the pump stand. Another thing that will delay changeovers is larger bay hoses. If you are using 3/8" you should switch to 1/4".
 
yea they are T'd at the pump, and we are running 3/8". What does a manifold look like when they are T'd above the Bay or where can you get them
 
You can easily make them out of "off the shelf" brass or stainless fittings as well. I would use stainless since presoak and TC will eventually degrade brass.

I'm assuming you only have an HP line going out to your bay. You will have to extend all of your LP lines out to the top of the boom, and heres the big part, YOU MUST KEEP THEM FROM FREEZING! They will have to be wrapped with insulation or build an enclosed trough. Whoever set up this wash cheaped out by doing it the way it is now. I don't know if I've ever seen one set up that way.
 
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More lines to protect from freezing when you do it!

I.B. Washincars said:
You can easily make them out of "off the shelf" brass or stainless fittings as well. I would use stainless since presoak and TC will eventually degrade brass.

I'm assuming you only have an HP line going out to your bay. You will have to extend all of your LP lines out to the top of the boom, and heres the big part, YOU MUST KEEP THEM FROM FREEZING! They will have to be wrapped with insulation or build an enclosed trough. Whoever set up this wash cheaped out by doing it the way it is now. I don't know if I've ever seen one set up that way.
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Nick,

As long as I.B. - Pat mentioned his insulation technique, you may want to consider the "more lines" to freeze factor in other ways also. We have weep on all our LP lines as well as the HP lines but we rarely use them because of our doors. I know Rapid City is in kind of a "banana belt" like Billings --- but it is still different than Kentucky weather wise. We definitely have our blow out system ready to use as needed --- there again --- the "more lines" means more lines have to be manifolded in the equipment room to accomplish weep & or blow out!

MJ - Mike Walsh kingkoin of Bismarck
 
mjwalsh said:
Nick,

We have weep on all our LP lines as well as the HP lines but we rarely use them because of our doors.
MJ - Mike Walsh kingkoin of Bismarck
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I know you are in a cold area. But I don't think LP lInes should need to be weeped. The trough heat should take care of this. The lines should have check valves and be manifolded above the bay in the trough with check valves. Trough heat should keep them thawed to this point. The HP and FB need to be weeped because those hoses extend from the heated trough thru the same manifold into the unheated bay. That weep should keep the line open for the LP as well.
If you have a seperate LP tri foam hose that would need to be weeped and / or an anti freeze product used.
 
Earl Weiss said:
I know you are in a cold area. But I don't think LP lInes should need to be weeped.
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I agree. The manifolds need to be protected from freezing, but the lines themselves can expand without damage if the liquid inside freezes.
 
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