What's new

Laser Wash 4000 Spare Parts, and where to buy....

MDrost1

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
558
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Grand Haven, MI
Folks,

I have only been a member here for a few days and have been amazed at the response time and quality of knowledge! Thank you!

I am wondering if anyone has a "spare part" list for the LW 4000. I am just looking to pick up some parts that are needed regularly. I'd also like to know what parts you buy, and where you buy them. If it is not too much trouble.

Prox Switches?? The x30 seems to be an issue often. Tbar eyes, J0 parts etc.

I am new to this, and appreciate your help greatly!

Mike
 

wash4me

Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
481
Reaction score
3
Points
18
Location
Kansas City
I am fairly new to this as well but I understand that almost all of the WashWorld High Velocity Parts fit the 4000 and they will sell direct to you at a reasonable cost. They will be glad to talk to you I'm sure. 18883157253 It is probably a good idea to talk to both the WashWorld and the PDQ distributor in your area and get quotes from both after you get a list of parts together. Try to establish whether they are a fair organization or one that just gets all they can. Lots of distributors fall into the latter category. We have had the best luck with a small car wash repair company. Just remember that the money for whoever you work with is in the initial equipment sale and the chemical sales and most chemicals will work just fine. There is no magic sauce. I would buy chemicals from whoever had the quickest response time when you call for service and or will give you the technicians cell number.
 
Last edited:

PEI

Active member
Joined
Sep 8, 2007
Messages
292
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Location
Danville, VA
For spare parts I would recommend some shear pins, a set of eyes and proximity sensors, a set of fuses, a couple of spare injectors, a spare danfoss valve, a set of small check valves, a set of injector tips, some extra soap hose, and unless you can get a spring hose 7 days a week a spare spring hose. If you are willing to spend more you can also get a spare Lex-Air Valve, a spare Jobe or Hydrominder Valve, a Parker Valve, an Undercarriage Check Valve, a 90 Degree Swivel, and a Straight Swivel.

You can get all of your parts from a PDQ distributor including the proprietary ones. You can also get most of the parts for a LW4000 from Wash World. You can get some parts from Kleen-Rite. Grainger has some of the valves and pumps. Pantron Electronics can provide you with all the different eyes and proximity sensors.

I hope this helps.
 

GoBuckeyes

Self-Serve and Automatics
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
1,076
Reaction score
347
Points
83
Location
Cleveland
PEI, I just bought a site with two 4000's....I was just trying to figure out a spare parts list myself. Comparing what is currently on my PDQ's to what I see in some Washworld pictorial parts list I have a few questions...

My 4000 has Parker 3/4" brass check valves for the HP manifold and RO . To replace those is over $350 each. Have you had any luck with other brands? The 1/2" checks are all General Pump check valves, and they make a 3/4" version...have you tried them? They're only like $50 each.

Regarding the 90 and straight 1" swivels, what brand and part number are you using? Approximately what are the costs? I own other brands of automatics and I've learned through experience, price isn't always indicative of quality or longevity. I've also learned just because they sell a 'rebuild kit' for something doesn't mean its worth doing all the time no matter how much 'cheaper' it is. Some things can be rebuilt, some don't waste you time or money on.

Thanks foe the help!
 

gearhead

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
212
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Ohio
On the 3/4 check valves, consider these: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1743-paraplate-check-valve-34-fxf.aspx
They are of excellent quality and in my opinion a better design than Parker at about a 3rd of the price. Rebuild kits are dirt cheap and the job is dead simple. I rebuild them all every year. No signs of wear at all. I'm on my 3rd year with the same assemblies. I also sourced out a good Viton o ring for the General pump 1/2" checks and they are also on their 3rd year. Just inspect the springs real well for tension. I have 2 sets and always have one ready to go when its time.
 

PEI

Active member
Joined
Sep 8, 2007
Messages
292
Reaction score
64
Points
28
Location
Danville, VA
GoBuckeyes, I have used the Geneeral Pump 1/2" checks but not the 3/4". I know another operator that decided to use a 3/4" Fluid
Control Check Valve in the place of the Parker Valves. He has run it for a year so far, and it seems to still be working. It is about $40.00 from Kleen-Rite. In the last two months I have had to replace the 3/4 Parker Valves on three of our LW4000 and I expect the other six to fail in 2015 so I have ordered one of the Fluid Control Check Valves to try on our next replacement. I will have to let you know how it goes.
 

GoBuckeyes

Self-Serve and Automatics
Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
1,076
Reaction score
347
Points
83
Location
Cleveland
GoBuckeyes, I have used the Geneeral Pump 1/2" checks but not the 3/4". I know another operator that decided to use a 3/4" Fluid
Control Check Valve in the place of the Parker Valves. He has run it for a year so far, and it seems to still be working. It is about $40.00 from Kleen-Rite. In the last two months I have had to replace the 3/4 Parker Valves on three of our LW4000 and I expect the other six to fail in 2015 so I have ordered one of the Fluid Control Check Valves to try on our next replacement. I will have to let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the info guys. I had to order a dozen of the 1/2" GP checks so I also went ahead and ordered 6 of their 3/4" to try. I know I'm going to need more than that so I'll give the Paraplates a try also.

PEI , I used to use lots of Fluid Control check valves, both viton and teflon seal versions. In my opinion, their quality has gone the wrong direction. If you're going to use them in a critical area, you need to check two things. First, when they started going 'cheap' they changed their poppet retainer from stainless to weak plastic. You have to order them special with the stainless retainer or buy the rebuild kit with the stainless retainer. On the 3/4", you don't have to worry because they use a retainer made from either teflon or umhw plastic that won't break like the small checks. The other thing I would suggest is to to loosen their screw that holds the poppet in and add some type of thread locker. I had bunch fail simply because the screw backed out. It's tedious to do but worthwhile.

Back to the parts list... what are your experiences with the 1" straight and 90 degree swivels? I see the prices on those run the gamut between various manufacturers. What do you suggest?

Do the shear pins Kleen-Rite sells work oK?

Keep the info coming!

Thanks again.
 

gearhead

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
212
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Ohio
I have been using the Kleen rite shear bolts for about 18 months and so far so good. I cant say how well they work when they are needed because knock on wood, no one has rammed the arches at my place yet. They are not breaking or bending under high pressure.

I use the super swivel double bearing straight and 90 deg. I have good luck with these. I grease them every mo. on my PM and change them once a year. You have to remove one grease fitting and insert a fitting that allows grease to exit the opposite side. The straight is proprietary to PDQ. You can use the one kleen rite sells if you buy a height adaptor. The 90's last for ever if you keep them greased regularly and those can be bought anywhere. There is a retro kit that is also available to eliminate the straight swivel @ the trolley and use a 90 deg. (mosmatic) I hear its a good set up. But for me, I have had no issues with my set up so I cant justify the price of the change.

FWIW, I have also tried the fluid controls checks and to be honest was skeptical about the quality and the durability from the get go after a visual. On receiving my order of 15, 1/2" check valves, 2 of them were assembled backwards. They don't work well that way.
During a mid season nozzle change, I removed the bottom nozzle on the arch and the guts of a couple check valves came falling out. Now I may have received a bad run. And they may work fine for others. Just sharing my experience.
 

soonermajic

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
3,387
Reaction score
871
Points
113
Location
texas
Man I must be lucky. Had my LW4000 about 4 mos, not 1 problem yet!
 

MDrost1

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
558
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Grand Haven, MI
When I entered into the CW industry 1 1/2 years ago, I knew there was a 2 year learning curve.

Fortunately, most of my issues have been great learning experiences and made me a stronger owner. I still have hard days every once and a while, but try to stay calm and utilize all of the great resources available to me....like this forum.
 

MDrost1

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
558
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Grand Haven, MI
OK,

Anybody a have an idea where I can purchase the LEX Air valve, and MAC valve that are on the LW4000 pump stand? Prowling the internet, but can't seem to find a place to buy either. Maybe I'm using the wrong PDQ P/N.

Thanks!
 

MDrost1

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
558
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Grand Haven, MI
Also, I have ordered KR sheer pins in the past, and WW.

What are you experiences with the KR version vs. PDQ vs. WW
 

BBE

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
507
Reaction score
2
Points
16
Location
USA
Also, I have ordered KR sheer pins in the past, and WW.

What are you experiences with the KR version vs. PDQ vs. WW
They are all the same in my experience. Dultmeier has them as well. If you don't have the stainless ball bearings in your arch anymore to keep the arch from wobbling you will go through them quicker.
 
Top