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Laserwash 4000 tires spinning

J Weber

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My Lasewash 4000 is generating a speed control overload fault when the tires spin excessively and the bridge stops moving during a wash cycle. It has a PDQ Overglow system also. I’ve tried new tires and overinflating them to 36psi and that has helped. Has anyone out there experienced this issue and if so what did you do to fix it?
 

DiamondWash

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We had to cut angled notches along the length of the track on both sides to address this, the diamond plating will wear out over years and will cause this.
 

tdlconceptsllc

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My Lasewash 4000 is generating a speed control overload fault when the tires spin excessively and the bridge stops moving during a wash cycle. It has a PDQ Overglow system also. I’ve tried new tires and overinflating them to 36psi and that has helped. Has anyone out there experienced this issue and if so what did you do to fix it?
When my tires where spinning on my 4000 its because they where pumped up too much. We always ran 25-28psi never over 30psi we ran into problems especially in winter if the heat rails didn't come on soon enough. I would try Airing them Down the complete opposite. 28psi is what we always wanted hope this helps. Make sure the rails are Level I have seen them get out of wack over time and you have good rollers on the machine.
 

J Weber

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Thanks for all the input guys, I tried the lower air pressure but the tires would still spin. I’ll try it again just to give it the benefit of a doubt. cutting the grooves may be the answer. How deep did you groove and how far apart were the angled Notches?
 
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I don't have experience with tire driven machines but maybe the tire tread is worn out?
 

washnvac

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Are the rollers wore out, causing less pressure to the plate?

I had one unit where I had a welder come weld new diamond plate over the old. That fixed the issue on that machine.
 

MEP001

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Lower pressure in tires means a larger contact patch and better traction. Ask any off roader
Except that with automatics that are tire-driven, the center of the tire is at a fixed distance from the rail. More tire pressure expands the tire and puts more grip on the rail.
 

DiamondWash

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Thanks for all the input guys, I tried the lower air pressure but the tires would still spin. I’ll try it again just to give it the benefit of a doubt. cutting the grooves may be the answer. How deep did you groove and how far apart were the angled Notches?
We just cut the groves in a X pattern the whole length of each track, don't need to go deep with it (giggity) just enough so the tire grips it.
 
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sparkey

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Could you get some anti-slip tape like they use on stair treads and put on the rails? I know its not a permanent fix but you may get a few months out of it. I had an old tire driven machine on a circular track and used to take a center punch and put dimples in the rails to give it traction in the corners.
 

OurTown

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We have a fixed oval so it's a little different but the drive tires ride on an aluminum rail. Whenever they start slipping I take an angle grinder with a 50 grit flap wheel over the rail to give the tires traction.
 

J Weber

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Could you get some anti-slip tape like they use on stair treads and put on the rails? I know its not a permanent fix but you may get a few months out of it. I had an old tire driven machine on a circular track and used to take a center punch and put dimples in the rails to give it traction in the corners.
I did try the anti-slip tape and it worked until the adhesive on the back came loose. I ended up taking it all off as it just kept coming loose. I didn’t try the dimples though. I will consider that, although cutting the angled grooves sounds to me like a more permanent fix. Thanks for your suggestion.
 

J Weber

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is there a particular type of cutting wheel that is better than others? Do you put the X pattern continuously down the track or do you space the X’s apart (every 6”, 8”, or 12” etc.)?
 
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@jweber Our Mark VII friction machine came with x's cut into the top rail. They are continuous overlapping x's about an 1/8" deep.
 

J Weber

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I’m also considering tack welding strips of expanded metal over the diamond plate. Is there a reason that wouldn’t work other than rust unless I use stainless? Has anyone ever tried that?
 

HeyVern

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If you have access to a welder, you could just run a small bead every inch or so, same idea as cutting grooves only you'd be building them up instead cutting them in. Stainless expanded metal, if you can find it would be pricey.
 
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