“I have a high pressure reclaim rinse, then dying agent, then city water rinse and finally a RO rinse.…I also have spotting where water is left on vehicles….”
Using reclaim for high pressure prep, curtains and wraps, and high pressure wheels is OK, but I would not recommend using reclaim water under high pressure to rinse cars before waxing and drying.
Basically, you clean the car and then put tons of reclaim water on that contains emulsified oil, etc. that re-deposits dirt (spotting) back on to the surface which makes drying more difficult.
So, I might try switching high pressure reclaim to normal tap pressure. If that doesn’t work, then check results with high pressure reclaim rinse shut off.
If that helps, then I would examine quality of reclaim. It simply may not be good enough to promote free rinsing and drying.
“My original post is specifically asking how do you achieve a lo ph car before drying kicks in? I see post all the time referring to lo ph car before drying.”
There are lots of posts about pH. Some people know what they are talking about and others do not.
Like many things about carwash balance is a key.
For example, to get a dry car, you must first get a clean car.
So, if reclaim is allowing too much dirt to redeposit on vehicles, I don’t care what pH is present at final rinse you will have spots and trouble getting a dry car.
Exception is when products like rain repel, hot wax, etc. are used. Here, surface is treated with polymers and wax that impart very strong and long lasting hydrophobic effect. These products are acidic (low pH) meaning they would help neutralize alkaline
soap (high pH).
Since spotting is one of the characteristics, I’d bet the quality of the reclaim water is principal constraint preventing free rinsing and drying.
