What's new
By:
Car Wash Forum

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Melted wire/contactor from electric motor

S

stampedecarwash

Member
Today one of our pumps stopped working. Turned off/on the main breaker and started again. Noticed the wiring connected to the contractor in the electrical box ( not quite sure whats called perhaps MCC, i have Super Savor Coleman Hanna for my wandwash) is melted. My electrician will come to change the contractor but im wondering if thats a sign the electric motor has issues i.e need lubrications? Does any one lubricate the electrical motors connected to the pumps? Has anyone seen similar issue (pic attached). The wire gets really hot. Also the wire for this pump is thinner than other pumps for some unknown reasons.
 

Attachments

  • 7BD22253-D53A-4F27-A9AA-F10BE74E242C.jpeg
    7BD22253-D53A-4F27-A9AA-F10BE74E242C.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 53
Coleman uses Baldor motors. Baldor motors should not be greased on a routine basis because there is no escape for the excess grease, which will make its way into the windings and cause the motor to overheat and burn out. The grease interval is something like 64,000 hours which will take 50-75 years to achieve. The motors will not last that long.

That wire burned up because it wasn't tightened securely at the contactor.
 
Those motors and pump cause vibrations on your pump stand. I make it a habit of checking mine once a month to tighten them again. Those contactors have those little holes that you stick a phillips head in and tighten. I would check these often. While tightening i turn all power off to be safe.
 
Thanks guys as always very helpful. Do you think i need to change the contactor? Or no this is just a matter of cutting the head, cleaning the connection (with Contact Cleaner spray) and putting it back?
 
The bad connection could have caused damage to the contacts, but without taking it apart it's hard to say. After it's run for a bit, check that wire and see if it is warmer than the others.
 
stampedecarwash said:
The wire gets really hot. Also the wire for this pump is thinner than other pumps for some unknown reasons.
Click to expand...
The whole wire may need to be replaced because the resistance changes on wire that has been overheated. The issue may have been that the wire was loose in the contactor lug or some of the wire strands may have broken when the electrician stripped the wires. Damaged or broken wire strands is equivalent to using a smaller size wire.
You mentioned that the wire "looks" smaller than the other bays. I'd check that too. I'd be more concerned about the wire than the contactor for now.
 
Get a I/R Temperature Detector (Temperature Gun) like the one in photo. You can check the temp of the whatever you point at with reasonable accuracy and without touching the wires or electrical equipment, Harbor Freight has them. How old is the equipment? Could be a loose connection if in newer MCC where poor connections will show up in the first year or so or if it is subject to vibration. However, still could be a motor.
 

Attachments

  • 1558966932932.png
    1558966932932.png
    38.8 KB · Views: 2
I would replace that contactor. Once you put a new contactor on that wire should be fine. The guys are correct about a damaged wire though.
 
Damoni88 said:
After looking closely at that wire it definitely needs to be checked. That wire might have gone bad.
Click to expand...

I agree with all of the above suggestions & concerns ... but just to add:

If you use a wire nut to replace a cut out segment of some wire ... I personally would use a more secure clamp on wire nut such as a Wago. Not all 10-14 gauge stranded wire is of the same quality ... something to be on the alert for. Some electricians are better than others ... especially when it comes to controls ...
 
If your going to be in the car wash business you have some general knowledge about electricity and plumbing. You should get some basic tools and learn how they work and how to do troubleshooting of the car wash systems. You shouldn't have to call an electican to fix this problem. I would replace the wire so they are all the same size and possibliy the motor contactor if the contacts are burnt.
 
My electrician checked the current and it looks normal (the same as other mototrs about 9A). He said nothing wrong with the contactor, so simply cut the head and put the wire back in. Measured the current and looks normal. Will see if the problem comes back...
 
stampedecarwash said:
My electrician checked the current and it looks normal (the same as other mototrs about 9A). He said nothing wrong with the contactor, so simply cut the head and put the wire back in. Measured the current and looks normal. Will see if the problem comes back...
Click to expand...
I myself would not be using that same contactor. I would have replaced that for sure being its burnt like that but thats you wash and no one can tell you what to do we can only advise. Just check regularly that it is screwed down tight cause they do vibrate loose over time.
 
MEP001 said:
Coleman uses Baldor motors. Baldor motors should not be greased on a routine basis because there is no escape for the excess grease, which will make its way into the windings and cause the motor to overheat and burn out. The grease interval is something like 64,000 hours which will take 50-75 years to achieve. The motors will not last that long.

That wire burned up because it wasn't tightened securely at the contactor.
Click to expand...

I found my Baldor motors all have sealed bearings, even though they have grease nipples there is nowhere for the grease to go.
 
Same on my Coleman pumpstand. They have grease zerks, but there is no grooves or access for grease to get into the bearings. I have changed a bunch of the bearings on motors that were noisy. When I change them I get bearings that are greasable.
 
Well the motor tripped again after two weeks. I think its because I have not lubricated it for over a year. The specs says it supposed to be lubricated but it has two nipples. Do I need to lubricate both nipples? here is some pics. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 16
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 17
like the post above, the bearings are most likely sealed. If you grease and push out the seal, you can cause damage.

IF the motor is not making a noise, 99.9% sure it is not a bearing. If it is making a noise, it could be a bearing. looking at your photo, someone has greased it?

Have you checked the AMPS while running with a good clamp on AMP Meter. Is the current the same on all three phases?
 
Yes the current is the same as other pumps. And no the motor does nto get hot or making noise...yes I had a guy who greased it 1.5 years ago.
I also talked to the manufacturer, these motors supposed to be greased, only one pump every 6 month
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top